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has anyone ever rebuilt/refurbished the older style idle air control valves? I have two failed ones, and you cant get a new one from what ive found. its a discontinued part. aside from sourcing out another used unit, or swapping my throttle body out to accept the new style, is there anything I can do to salvage my old one? anyone ever tried a rebuild? or have any tech specs on the internals?
I suppose so. The little paddle the opens and closes the black plate.
That is a bimetal kind of like what thermostats use. Is it broken?
There is an electrical connection on the aux air valve. Ohm that out with your multimeter. If it reads open link then it has failed.
I imagine if you can take it apart you could match some resistance wire to it and make a new coil bit I'm not sure you can. I use kanthal wire for my ecigs. Same principle really
Although you could do the upper intake swap from the newer 22re for pretty cheap. That is the way i would go if the valve is truly bad
Last edited by 92ehatch; Feb 23, 2016 at 08:23 AM.
That is a bimetal kind of like what thermostats use. Is it broken?
There is an electrical connection on the aux air valve. Ohm that out with your multimeter. If it reads open link then it has failed.
I imagine if you can take it apart you could match some resistance wire to it and make a new coil bit I'm not sure you can. I use kanthal wire for my ecigs. Same principle really
Although you could do the upper intake swap from the newer 22re for pretty cheap. That is the way i would go if the valve is truly bad
I have two bad valves. Both are partially open all the time. Never change positions, hot or cold.
Take a hair dryer and get it nice and hot. It should move towards closed. Then put in the freezer and it should open up wide. The bimetal itself really won't go bad. The internal heater can however.
It's a Simple test with a cheap multimeter for the heater portion. They are also adjustable
Take a hair dryer and get it nice and hot. It should move towards closed. Then put in the freezer and it should open up wide. The bimetal itself really won't go bad. The internal heater can however.
It's a Simple test with a cheap multimeter for the heater portion. They are also adjustable
The old style is adjustable? I'll have to tinker with it and see. Both the ones I have stay in one position. Hot or cold. Both in different positions. The slides and spring are clean, so whatever controls the paddle is what's not functioning properly or sticking. Have to figure out how to take that apart, maybe clean it.
The old style is adjustable? I'll have to tinker with it and see. Both the ones I have stay in one position. Hot or cold. Both in different positions. The slides and spring are clean, so whatever controls the paddle is what's not functioning properly or sticking. Have to figure out how to take that apart, maybe clean it.
Yes it is adjustable. Basically at room temp you only want it to be slightly open like a crescent moon.
There is a nut with yellow marking on it. Loosen that nut then pry it one direction or the other. It will move the mechanism slightly. Once set then hammer down with a hair dryer and after a few minutes it should close. If you put it in the freezer it will open.
However all this will be in vane if the electrical heater is bad. The only way to test this is with a meter.
I just cleaned and adjusted mine last week. I should have taken pictures and made a tech post.
Yes it is adjustable. Basically at room temp you only want it to be slightly open like a crescent moon.
There is a nut with yellow marking on it. Loosen that nut then pry it one direction or the other. It will move the mechanism slightly. Once set then hammer down with a hair dryer and after a few minutes it should close. If you put it in the freezer it will open.
However all this will be in vane if the electrical heater is bad. The only way to test this is with a meter.
I just cleaned and adjusted mine last week. I should have taken pictures and made a tech post.
Ok good to know. Another odd deal with mine, I don't have an electrical connector to plug into mine. No cut wires, like it was never there.
Ok good to know. Another odd deal with mine, I don't have an electrical connector to plug into mine. No cut wires, like it was never there.
What year is your truck. Possibly a older style motor put into a newer truck? The newer 22re had a coolant only based iacv mounted to the throttle body and no electrical connections. Can you take a picture?
What year is your truck. Possibly a older style motor put into a newer truck? The newer 22re had a coolant only based iacv mounted to the throttle body and no electrical connections. Can you take a picture?
It's an 89 truck. But has an 88 motor/injectors /harness. I'll take a pic and post it shortly.
Ya that's what I was thinking was gonna have to happen. I did however adjust the one I have off to almost full open when cold and hit it with the heat gun just now. It closed almost fully. Had to be pretty hot though. So I'm going to adjust it slightly more closed, and try running it. Thanks for all the tips and help. I'll see of I can't find one somewhere and look for the throttle body as well. Or maybe rig up a manual "choke" valve of some kind to replace it and work it manually during early morning cold starts.
Feb 22, 2016 | 05:45 PM
