thanks for the quick response. sway aways are quite away from the budget now a days, but something definitelly to consider, but as well i read a bit about people going back to stock bars because of the stiff ride u get with 25 mm bars... anyways also read that BJ spacers eat up idler arms... not sure how...
Also one of my questions was instead of cranking bars, just adding BJ spacers instead.

 

Ball-joint spacers are one solution but be sure to shim the bump stops to match (one or two washers, maybe, in addition to the bump stop drop brackets) just to prevent over-twisting the torsion bars when the front suspension bottoms-out.

Toyota torsion bars seldom break but do take a new "set" when repeatedly over-twisted meaning they start to sag from this over time -- just like any spring would. When the supension is higher, meaning the A-arms pointing downward from the crossmember instead of more level with it, the tie-rods are pointing more downward, which increases the leveraging and load on the idler arm. How fast it gets eaten depends on how hard it gets used -- meaning, 35"-plus tires, jumping, extreme rock-crawling, etc.

 

lol, where did you get the shim the bump stops part at. That's not why the bump stops need to be shimmed. Stock bump stops need no shimming. Low profile droop stop (not compression stop) needs shimming if using a poly low profile stop and it's not because "over twisting the t-bar", it's because the CV's have a tendency to bind up if using low profile stops in conjunction with spacers.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...er_HowTo.shtml

Do you even know why ball joint spacers were even made for these things? I bet you think they were originally made to lift a truck. That's wrong. They were originally meant to increase travel. Meaning your idea of shimming the bump stops or bump stop drop bracket etc etc is pointless for what they were designed for.

And oh the only thing I know that uses a bump stop drop bracket is a 4" frame drop bracket lift. Maybe your thinking of differential drops? Those really should be used if your trying to get the full 2.5" lift from a ball joint spacer as to help with CV angles.

 

Okay.

 

i wouldnt ad spacers for the weight, they make alignments hard to get right. just crank the bars a little to gain your height back. cranking the bars a little for the height is won't screw up the alignment as much as the spacers will.

bigger bars will probably be the better choice for the extra weight instead of spacers too since they are stiffer than stock and they don't mess with alignments either

 

not to jack your thread but i was wondering if you can put fj40 leaf springs in an xtra cab pickup or are they too short?

 

Times two.

 

I'll re-link/bump this older but still informative link on ball-joint spacers:

http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Ball...cer.shtml#FAQ2

 

Not bad considering I just posted this on this very page about 5 posts up.

 

the spacers are about 140... vs 250 on bars.......makes it seem kind of overpriced on the Bj spacers......

 

thanks for the good input 4wd4fun!

 

You don't miss a beat. I bumped it so that you might actually, you know, read it. And by reading it, I mean the whole thing. And then read it again.

 

So, definitively, a 4-inch IFS bracket lift is to be able to run 33" tires with zero rubbing and no cutting of anything in the front.

 

people run 33x10.5 tires with zero lift.

 

So is this a question or a statement? If it's a question then this is my reply:


https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-first-201994/

oh an I know I have posted this before, I have 33 x 12.50's on mine and I didn't cut anything except remove the front valence. Which IMO you really should do anyway if your intention is to go wheeling and you need to run those tires. Because your gonna bash the heck out of it anyway.

There are more factors I took into account and why I don't rub. Your gonna have to, in your own words, figure it out yourself by "reading it, I mean the whole thing. And then read it again."

 

you guys are filled w/ some good info, thanks for all the posts n replies this should be stickied....but it sounds like more of a headache than to just swap in a solid front axle and leave the ifs to the racers and jumpers. i know i wont be jumping my truck anytime soon, just wheeling and DD

 

A statement. I should've elaborated. I was putting my two cents on how surprising it is that lift manufacturers make bracket lifts 4" simply to clear some trim and/or small areas of inner fenders -- when just a bit of trimming/clearancing/removing is all that's needed in most cases to run 33s saving a ton of time, hassle and expense. Of course, tires of the same size are all slightly larger/smaller from mfr. to mfr. and even model to model, so it is indeed a case-by-case issue.

 

 

Is this a good idea?

TOYOTA HILUX N60 IFS - ADJUSTABLE UPPER BALL JOINT KIT