mldave

Rad4runner,so if some or one of the bushings on the clutch pedal or that whole assembly were broke or missing it wouldn't cause the symptoms on my truck,correct?Thanks for replying to my amateur ???

RAD4Runner

Not sure which bushing, Dave.
Bad clutch safety switch may cause starter to NOT crank. However, nothing electrical there would cause truck to shut off. (Could be just coincidence.)
What could cause truck to stall is IF there is mechanical problem. Clutch bracket have failed on some trucks. If it does, it's possible that you could be stepping on clutch pedal but clutch remains in gear; This could stall the engine.
Have you checked that wire that your neighbor's nephew connected? Picture of it would really help.

mldave

Rad4Runner,what I see and feel upon further looking and touching is black electrical tape wrapped around a spongy gizmo(not visable under tape but very soft) that hits the white plunger on the clutch pedal switch.This moves freely so perhaps it does not always make contact with the white plunger?How it got there I've no clue except I had the clutch master cylinder replaced in the past couple of years or before.The wire I referred to in an earlier post was a big wire going into the engine compartment fuse box.When the fellow pushed it back in it started right up.No camera to take pic and I really don't want to open that engine compasrtment fuse box as I may break the plastic side connections.

RAD4Runner

Probably just the clutch safety switch connector wrapped with foam to keep it from rattling (Pretty standard practice)

That's the fusible link. If he merely PUSHED IF BACK IN, then it is not secure. That's what's causing truck to shutdown while driving. It needs to be screwed into the terminal. Need to access it from the bottom by unscrewing m6 (10mm heads) screws mounting the fuse block to the body. Don't be afraid to get in there. If you're gentle you can't kill a Toyota.

mldave

Rad4Runner ,what if that black bushing is not thereand only has some foam wrapped with tape?In the link is a pick of the bushing.Will try and check that fuseable link when the heat goes away.Scroll down for pic..https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-pedal-255192/

RAD4Runner

Hi Dave,
I see. That bushing is just there to cushion the contact with the white plastic plunger of the clutch safety switch. Several wraps of electrical tape or that cushy stuff would work IF SECURE. Then clutch safety switch mounting needs to be adjusted so that:
1) When clutch pedal is pressed as usual the switch closes. OR
2) (if you can't use a multi-meter) Put ign in start position depress clutch to usual position, starter relay should click and truck should crank.

The No-Crank issue is most likely caused by the wrong wiring of the starter relay at the factory. My thread shows how to fix that with about $10 of wiring supplies.

mldave

Rad4Runner,what I notice this morning is a thick white wire going from the positive terminal to the bottom of the engine bay fuse box and it's not heavily wrapped as in your previous pictures....and as it enters the fuse box I see bare copper wire.I'll try and have someone fix it,if I can find anyone. that's willing and has the time.

RAD4Runner

That could be the problem. That's the fusible link wire. It's like a fuse but it does not blow as easily: it's more forgiving for momentary overload. Previous owner may have taken a shortcut and replaced it with regular wire. OK to run like that as long as it's connected securely ans is insulated. HOWEVER, IT WOULD JOT BE SAFE. U can try to find replacement from junk yard, or from Summit Racing, or fund any 80-Amp FL Module from auto parta store and wiredl similar to existing.

mldave

Rad4Runner,if that fusable linkwire needs to be changed out,what gauge wire,how long and what does the fusebox side of the end wire look like.I do need a wire with the fusable link,correct?

scope103

You know, I always thought a fusible link was some sort of special wire. But according to Wikipedia (if you believe that sort of thing), it's just a short section of wire that is intentionally "too small," (4 american wire gauge numbers) than the wire(s) it is protecting. I suppose that would work (though I would hope that "real" fusible links use a type of insulation that won't cause a fire when the fusible link "let's go.")

RAD4Runner

Scope,
Yes, I think the key there is insulation that will not burn, and FL 4 gages smaller than the main wire.

MLDave,
Let's focus on seeing condition of that wire before jumping into the next step. Like i said above, "OK to run like that as long as it's connected securely and is insulated. Then we can move on with troubleshooting.
Sorry I have not looked at what gage the stock fusible link wire is. For now, let's figure out what's causing your problems.

"HOWEVER, IT WOULD NOT BE SAFE (to run long-term without a FL IF, and only IF, indeed the previous owner hacked the wiring)"
Once we see what we're up against we take next step. Either:
1) Fellow member can chime in on wire gage for FL, OR
2) You can contact Summit Racing; that's where I bought my NON-STOCK FL for another project. The staff should know.

L5wolvesf

I just redid mine after a discussion with a guy at O'Reilly we determined 14 ga would work best. 12 is way too big and 16 was the other option.

FWIW, FL is available at O'Reilly and most other stores.

scope103

I assume you mean "fusible link wire." Did you manage to re-crimp the end pieces to the new wire? Since those are high-current connections, I'm always interested in seeing how other people perfect their craft.

As for the insulation, any thing (even copper, at some point) will burn. Teflon insulation (for instance) will burn but won't sustain a flame, and more importantly for where it is used, doesn't release a lot of toxic gas when it does burn.

Of course, the fusible link is the last line of defense AFTER something has gone wrong with all the big fuses down stream. At that point, toxic gases are the least of your problems.

mldave

Just a quick update,no fix as yet as no one has the time right now to help me out.So far the past four days there have been no issues with the truck shutting off or trouble starting,(strange).The only thing I've done was to tape off two very thin loose wires that were hanging above the kick panel fuse box that had bare ends.Those wires have been like that for the last six years.Likely nothing to do with the trucks issues but I figured it couldn't hurt to electrical tape them.Have spent many hours reading threads on Yotatech and other toyota forums and I guess the 80 amp fusabil link wire also connects to the alternator and ignition.Might be a few weeks or a month before I can get any help as my old time friends have either died or moved away.Will update if any new reports.

mldave

Guess I wrote that post to soon as the truck must have read it,driving up the that same short driveway to the shopping center it quit again but started right back up.Only difference in the motor quitting was the time of morning.Instead of 5:20 A.M. it was 9 A.M.

RAD4Runner

I wish we were closer to help you, Dave.
Anyway, hopefully you could find someone to help you. Above suggestions are sure to fix your problems. Hanging wires that have no use definitely should be removed, or at least insulated. That fusible link need to be inspected/fixed, and your starter relay wing corrected.

mldave

Rad4Runner,picked this up this morning at the local Napa auto parts.https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL784692......the owner looked at my wire from the positive and said that it's a 10 gauge wire(red) that's going to the fuse block.He said just use a piece of the red wire joined with the fusible link when someone replaces it.

RAD4Runner

Hi Dave,
Link does not work. Anyway, you ay not have to buy anything, yet. Just need to inspect and make sure that the stock wire is connected securely. Anyway, just hold on to the receipt for what you bought, because you may end up not needing it.

mldave

Rad4Runner,it's just a 14 gauge fusible link primary wire with eyelet.Less than four bucks at Napa.The 10 gauge red wire on mine,from the pos battery post to the engine bay fuse block has no fusible link.Don't know if that matters or not.Anyway my plan is to attach the 14 gauge fusible link primary wire the the pos battery post and splice in some ten gauge wire to the fusible link wire and then attach to the fuse block..But first I'll check for that loose connection.This is dependent on finding a helper.If it was cooler outside I'd check it myself,but no garage and with my COPD the heat makes that very difficult..

RAD4Runner

That's a solid plan and correct Wire to Fusible Link gauge combination.
Happy Independence Day, Dave!