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no heat

Old 11-06-2018, 09:38 AM
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no heat 97 4runner sr5

97 4runner sr5, not thermistat, not water valve, not clutch fan, flushed engine & core, new belts, coolant flowing good, sounds like control doors are opening and closing, cables don't seem to be broken?????? i'm f___ stumped and pissed. Can anybody HELP PLEASE!!!!! Yes blower is working on all speeds.

Last edited by dsoucy; 11-06-2018 at 12:02 PM.
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Old 11-06-2018, 10:17 AM
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is your blower fan working on all speeds?
if not the blower motor resistor has gone out
Originally Posted by dropzone View Post
I went ahead and replaced the blower motor resistor today after doing a little more research and learning it could contribute to killing the fan switch
I'd like to have a talk with the genious at Toyota who decided to put a failure prone point in such a convience place (tucked under the blower unit on the right side tucked up against the firewall)
I went ahead and pulled the glove box hoping for a little more room.
Attachment 112900
got it out after a few minutes and cussing, not the easiest thing to get out.
if you need to having a 7mm wrench helps on the back screw/bolt, you can get to the visible screw with a screwdriver or nut driver.
new one on the left, old one on the right..old one was slightly tarnished.
new one should offer a few years of good service
Attachment 112901

edit 11.7.18 @1242
looks like you updated your post (11.6.18 @ 1202) after this was posted

Glad you found your issue

Last edited by dropzone; 11-07-2018 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 11-06-2018, 10:26 AM
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[QUOTE=dsoucy;52411603]97 4runner sr5, not thermistat, not water valve, not clutch fan, flushed engine & core, new belts, coolant flowing good, sounds like control doors are opening and closing, cables don't seem to be broken?????? i'm f___ stumped and pissed. Can anybody HELP PLEASE!!!!![/QUOTE

If every last one of those things was as it should be, you'd have heat.

If both the inlet and outlet heater core hoses are hot, the problem is air door related.

If both the inlet and outlet heater core hoses are not hot; there's a circulation problem.
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Old 11-06-2018, 12:33 PM
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The only thing that's not been mentioned, and will cause no heat is low coolant.
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:07 PM
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found problem cable to door in front of heater core is off.thank u.
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:15 PM
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yes u are right just found it after posting this yesterday, but thank u anyway for your advice it was cable on door in front of heater core for those of u that would like to know. thanks again for replies all.
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:52 PM
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Thank you for posting your resolution...a lot don't and it's super frustrating.
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Old 11-09-2018, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dsoucy View Post
yes u are right just found it after posting this yesterday, but thank u anyway for your advice it was cable on door in front of heater core for those of u that would like to know. thanks again for replies all.

I think I'm facing the same problem right now, any chance you have a pic of where you found the problem?
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:04 AM
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no heat 97 4runner sr5

Originally Posted by Neemox View Post
I think I'm facing the same problem right now, any chance you have a pic of where you found the problem?
Well come to find out that was not all of my problem, now have some heat but not like it should. Hard to get picture of because of where it's at. But it is a rod that goes from center of console to doors in front of heater core, snaps into little plastic clip that goes into lever u really have to look for it. About 3-4 inches left of resistor mount on heater box in front of core up underneath. Good luck. Still working on mine will update soon as figure this dam thing out??
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by dsoucy View Post
Well come to find out that was not all of my problem, now have some heat but not like it should. Hard to get picture of because of where it's at. But it is a rod that goes from center of console to doors in front of heater core, snaps into little plastic clip that goes into lever u really have to look for it. About 3-4 inches left of resistor mount on heater box in front of core up underneath. Good luck. Still working on mine will update soon as figure this dam thing out??
Awesome. Looking forward to learning what you find out. I'll go digging around for that cable again today.
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:16 AM
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no heat 97 4runner sr5

Originally Posted by Neemox View Post
Awesome. Looking forward to learning what you find out. I'll go digging around for that cable again today.
it's not a cable it's a steel rod look close it's very hard to see!!
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Old 11-14-2018, 06:06 PM
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[QUOTE=millball;52411609]
Originally Posted by dsoucy View Post
97 4runner sr5, not thermistat, not water valve, not clutch fan, flushed engine & core, new belts, coolant flowing good, sounds like control doors are opening and closing, cables don't seem to be broken?????? i'm f___ stumped and pissed. Can anybody HELP PLEASE!!!!![/QUOTE

If every last one of those things was as it should be, you'd have heat.

If both the inlet and outlet heater core hoses are hot, the problem is air door related.

If both the inlet and outlet heater core hoses are not hot; there's a circulation problem.
So, Out of curiosity, how hot should the heater hoses be? Both the inlet and outlet are warm to me, but not hot. And while switching the knob to full heat is warmer than the cold setting, I wouldn't cal it heating. Is there something that could produce "kinda warm" or should I be looking for an air door issue?
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Old 11-14-2018, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dsoucy View Post
it's not a cable it's a steel rod look close it's very hard to see!!
Looking back at your origianl post, looks like we have different rigs. Mine is a first gen. and I found the piece that moves when I switch the heater from cold to hot, mine is driven by a cable and seems to be working. Is there another component(rod?) that I should be looking for on a First gen?

If not, is there a way for the air door to get separated from the cable mechanism on the outside which would necessitate me opening up that whole air door assembly to put something back together? Seems like the dash would have to come out to make that happen...
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Old 11-14-2018, 08:33 PM
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[QUOTE=Neemox;52412212]
Originally Posted by millball View Post

So, Out of curiosity, how hot should the heater hoses be? Both the inlet and outlet are warm to me, but not hot. And while switching the knob to full heat is warmer than the cold setting, I wouldn't cal it heating. Is there something that could produce "kinda warm" or should I be looking for an air door issue?
When the temp lever is all the way over at hot, and the truck warmed up well. the heater hoses ought to be near as hot as the upper radiator hose is.
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:39 PM
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[QUOTE=millball;52412220]
Originally Posted by Neemox View Post

When the temp lever is all the way over at hot, and the truck warmed up well. the heater hoses ought to be near as hot as the upper radiator hose is.
Thanks! OK, they get to be about the same temp as the URH, but really they all just feel warm. I guess I thought the URH would be warmer than it is.

I noticed the biggest change in the heating (hasn't ever been heating too well) when I was mucking around in the dash, so I'll focus more on those problems. But if anyone has other insights into first gen heaters, I'm all ears.
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Old 11-15-2018, 01:42 PM
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[QUOTE=Neemox;52412224]
Originally Posted by millball View Post

Thanks! OK, they get to be about the same temp as the URH, but really they all just feel warm. I guess I thought the URH would be warmer than it is.

I noticed the biggest change in the heating (hasn't ever been heating too well) when I was mucking around in the dash, so I'll focus more on those problems. But if anyone has other insights into first gen heaters, I'm all ears.
Replace thermostat. I had the same symptoms due to wrong t stat.
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Old 11-15-2018, 02:58 PM
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[QUOTE=yota tay;52412261]
Originally Posted by Neemox View Post
Replace thermostat. I had the same symptoms due to wrong t stat.
Just did some more reading and it sure sounds like this could be causing my problem for sure. I'm guessing the shop probably put a generic fail-stop type t-stats in when they did the swap. I just ordered the toyota part and will install and report back when it gets here. Thanks!
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