Originally Posted by dropzone (Post 52332405)

I went ahead and replaced the blower motor resistor today after doing a little more research and learning it could contribute to killing the fan switch
I'd like to have a talk with the genious at Toyota who decided to put a failure prone point in such a convience place (tucked under the blower unit on the right side tucked up against the firewall)
I went ahead and pulled the glove box hoping for a little more room.
Attachment 112900
got it out after a few minutes and cussing, not the easiest thing to get out.
if you need to having a 7mm wrench helps on the back screw/bolt, you can get to the visible screw with a screwdriver or nut driver.
new one on the left, old one on the right..old one was slightly tarnished.
new one should offer a few years of good service
Attachment 112901

Originally Posted by dsoucy (Post 52411691)

yes u are right just found it after posting this yesterday, but thank u anyway for your advice it was cable on door in front of heater core for those of u that would like to know. thanks again for replies all.

Originally Posted by Neemox (Post 52411803)

I think I'm facing the same problem right now, any chance you have a pic of where you found the problem?

Originally Posted by dsoucy (Post 52412070)

Originally Posted by Neemox (Post 52412071)

Awesome. Looking forward to learning what you find out. I'll go digging around for that cable again today.

Originally Posted by dsoucy (Post 52411603)

97 4runner sr5, not thermistat, not water valve, not clutch fan, flushed engine & core, new belts, coolant flowing good, sounds like control doors are opening and closing, cables don't seem to be broken?????? i'm f___ stumped and pissed. Can anybody HELP PLEASE!!!!![/QUOTE

If every last one of those things was as it should be, you'd have heat.

If both the inlet and outlet heater core hoses are hot, the problem is air door related.

If both the inlet and outlet heater core hoses are not hot; there's a circulation problem.

Originally Posted by dsoucy (Post 52412074)

it's not a cable it's a steel rod look close it's very hard to see!!

Originally Posted by millball (Post 52411609)

So, Out of curiosity, how hot should the heater hoses be? Both the inlet and outlet are warm to me, but not hot. And while switching the knob to full heat is warmer than the cold setting, I wouldn't cal it heating. Is there something that could produce "kinda warm" or should I be looking for an air door issue?

Originally Posted by Neemox (Post 52412212)

When the temp lever is all the way over at hot, and the truck warmed up well. the heater hoses ought to be near as hot as the upper radiator hose is.

Originally Posted by millball (Post 52412220)

Thanks! OK, they get to be about the same temp as the URH, but really they all just feel warm. I guess I thought the URH would be warmer than it is.

I noticed the biggest change in the heating (hasn't ever been heating too well) when I was mucking around in the dash, so I'll focus more on those problems. But if anyone has other insights into first gen heaters, I'm all ears.

Originally Posted by Neemox (Post 52412224)

Replace thermostat. I had the same symptoms due to wrong t stat.