Hey all, first post here. Bought a '95 V6 with 152k km a little while back.
had an issue where I'd have to turn key multiple times before it'd crank and start (clock would go out but all other light were fine). Issue came back and now won't crank or start at all.

I have been troubleshooting all over (ask if you want specifics beyond what I give), have replaces starter and alternator recently and battery is good.

I am not getting power to the starter relay, so ran a jumper wire and could get it to crank but no spark. Tested voltage at igniter and coil, have power at igniter but not at coil.

Wondering if it's just a wiring issue(short etc.) Or something else I'm missing.

edit: list of everything I can think of that I've tested and tried.
StarterPower to and from ignition switch tested out fineRelay tested fine, relay controls slots have ground, but no power even with key turned.
fuses are all fine.
Haven't found a loose groundBattery tested fine with load and different battery tried.

 

"Turn key multiple times" is usually a bad ignition switch. "clock would go out but other lights are fine" is usually a very low battery. "Replaced starter and alternator recently" is often a sign of the "parts cannon." "I've done lots of troubleshooting but I'm not going to tell you what I've done" means, well, I'm not sure what you're trying to tell us.

The coil is powered off IG2 in the ignition switch, the starter off IG1. So test at the ignition switch; if IG2 is intermittent you'll probably need to replace the switch.

 

Ignition switch tested out fine, power at all pins with key in start. Assuming the ig2 and 1 are the pins connected to the switch or connection on switch itself? I'll double check but had power at all when I tested last.
Replaced alternator as it went on me two weeks ago, not linked to this issue, figured I'd mention it.
Replaced starter was essentially parts cannon but also on recommendation of a experienced mechanic but I didn't doubly check by testing voltage at starter.

Clock still going out while boosting and with different battery is unlikely, and low battery on this vehicle gives a lot of flickering on accessory lights in past experience (battery was toast when I bought and from alternator going).

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Haven't been able to find ignition switch wiring diagram but there are two wires coming off the switch going to a seperate connection that aren't getting power at all, but they're seperate from the big connection with the starter relay wire.

 

The igniter and coil are about 1" apart, and they get battery voltage on the same wire. So you have a problem in the connector, the wire, or splice E13. All of these are within 2" of the coil, and you already know the wire color.

IG1 and IG2 are circuits switched by the ignition switch. http://web.archive.org/web/201102052.../3ignition.pdf

 

"...The igniter and coil are about 1" apart, and they get battery voltage on the same wire..."

Looks like a previous owner rewired. It as the coil is getting power from so where else, two well-joined wires coming up from somewhere else. Only one small white and green one connecting the igniter and coil, so not sure what's happening there.

Not sure where splice e13 is but I will check continuity on the switch itself. Thanks for the diagram, been having trouble finding it.

 

Checked continuity and non on pins 1-3, 1-2, with key at on, and none 1-3 at start.

Will replace ignition I guess.