Compression Test Results:
Cylinder 1 - 165
Cylinder 2 - 170
Cylinder 3 - 0
Cylinder 4 - 160
Cylinder 5 - (couldn't get to it -- wasn't worth it)
Cylinder 6 - 175

Added oil into the 3rd cylinder same result.

So it seems all my other cylinders seem to have decent (within spec) compression and I do not see more than a 10% different between them. With my luck I am doubtful that my valve clearance is out of spec. If I do planning on getting the heads re-done I definitely wanted to do o/s valves debating on the cams. I have never done bottom end work so unsure how difficult it would be to replace the rings or if I even need to touch them -- based on my compression test results. I know I know only time will tell once I rip the heads off.

And before this turns into a "Throw a 3.4 in it and call it a day..." I am heavily considering it. My only draw back is the cost at once, labor involved, and how badly I suck at wiring.

 

Have you had the valve covers off yet to see if there is damage to the valve train on number 3?

If you can turn the engine over while you have them off, you will be able to see if there is any odd movement on number 3 valves. Once you know if your dealing with any obvious problems, you can move from there. Worst case, the valves are good, and you have a hole in the piston.

 

Well the truck runs/drives "ok" except for rough idle when the truck warms up. I did the rag/dollar bill test and it does get sucked every other rotation. I am not losing any fluid whether it be coolant or oil. I have no CEL either.

I won't be digging into this until it warms up (next year most likely). In my part of the tundra it's all rain/wind/snow.

 

Sounds like a burnt valve, but strange stuff does happen. I had a 69 Ford with a 352 that ate the valve seat and part of the head and still ran like a champ. When I took the cover off the valve was sitting a angle that wasn't even close to the rest. When I removed the head I couldn't believe how far the valve had eaten away at things!

There is something to be said about a warm dry place to work. When i was in my late teens and early 20's I would have dove right in, now I wait for the heater to get the shop warm before I even think about looking under the hood.

 

I learned my lesson when I ended up replacing my gas lines and fuel filter laying in a foot of snow. This was in the driveway! Thankfully I do not really drive this around a lot. I take public transportation to work and come spring/summer time I have a bike that will get me to and from. I will be taking my time with whatever I decide to make sure it gets done right.

 

i had the same prob about 3 yrs ago i got both heads rebuilt its a lil cheaper than doing the 3.4 swap but if you have the money to do the swap i would

 

looks like your going to be in the same boat as me. I would bet busted rod as the same thing happened to me. my truck would run but i could hear the busted rod tapping on stuff. If yours isnt tapping i would say possible you have a hole in your piston. your in for a treat thats all i have to say.

 

Man, you are really freaking me out. If it has anything to do with a busted rod/lower end issue I may as well just do a 3.4 swap. Funny thing is I hear no engine noise aside from maybe loud injectors. Once I get the head off I will post pictures since I have never see what a busted rod looks like. I really do hope my bottom end is ok.

 

You'd know if the rod was going/gone. It makes a rather loud clatter when it's spun the bearing, and if it breaks, well they normally come out of the crankcase in a rather spectacular fashion! There is no way you'd mistake a going rod for loud injectors, trust me! I would say worst case you have a hole in your piston, but it sounds like a burnt valve from the test's you have all ready done.