I am not sure what a PO is, but besides me replacing the h-gasket the motor had never been disassembled since driving off the showroom floor. I did have the head decked and Engnbldr valve seals installed. I have done all the work besides decking and valve seats. Yes both timing chain/cover gears and h-gasket replaced. I have a FSM but it only mentiones if you have a low compression reading to do the oil in the s-plug hole. I will try it but I am not getting a low reading. thanks again.

 

Ok, thanks for the refresher-update, Hertz!

"PO" is previous owner....Sorry, I'm getting so used to it, I've began to abbreviate things I'd not usually abbrev., hahaha.

Let me explain what I mean, and again, I'M NOT SAYING this or that is what you're looking at. I'm ONLY mentioning that it might be REALLY good idea to eliminate it from the P.O.E.(process of elimination) because, IFFFFF it's an issue, it can be a devastating one unchecked, .....Check?

When you do the compression test, as instructed, it gives you a decent idea, but not as accurate as leak down, as to what shape the rings, valves, maybe guides, etc. are in. When you do the WET compression test(oil in the holes), what you're trying to check for is higher compression when wet. The reason it would read higher(a couple #'s is no big deal....I think it says 12-14# difference is a sign) ....the reason for reading higher, as I was saying, is because the oil acts to seal up a 'leaky' or 'improperly seated' ring, thus, bringing the compression up on a particular cylinder because of 'added resistance' due to said manufactured/assimilated seal(via the oil you've added).......................
***Just imagine a brake piston, sliding in and out of the cylinder it rides in. Then, instead of brake fluid, if you added 90w gear oil, the piston would still leak, but it would have greater resistance as it tried to push through the cylinder.....Thus, "higher pressure reading" if it were measurable.*** Make sense?

I've only mentioned this because it's IMPORTANT to eliminate from the 'Process of Elimination', Hertz.....Not because "I bet it's bad rings", ...ok?

 

I'll check it in the morning. Any other thoughts possibilities?

 

It just might be rough getting much input on the Holiday, Hertz.... I know this from experience, hahaha. However, I'm going to keep asking around and try my best to get some 'alternate'(plausible) theories.

 

As to be expected. I should be camping in my 4runs with the canoe on top!!! Oh well I will spend most of the holiday eliminating potential problems. I did get it to quit stalling today for about 10 minutes. This was after I removed the small air filter (VTV) from the bottom of the throttle body...it is clogged and needs to be replaced. Anyway happy 4th!

 

You too, my 4Runna Brudda! lol. Happy 4th!

That lil filter is a part of the dashpot. It assists in slowing down deceleration of the throttle. It's not likely causing any huge problems, but I was just thinking....was it doing this when you adjusted/checked your TPS?(what I mean is, ...do you have to 'force' the linkage back down?) The Dashpot setting, and more importantly, Plate/Stop screw settings are CRUCIAL to the TPS adjustment. I mention this because I'm guessing that, since you got a TPS at a parts store...you must have removed and installed it on the Throttle body you already have, right? That filter can be cleaned, btw, and probably should be. Not sure, but I THINK that, if it's 'REALLY CLOGGED - almost stuck' it could stop the linkage from dropping all the way. I think that 4cralwer link has a "Dashpot" section in it...pretty sure.

Best wishes, Hertz,...I'll be on and off throughout the day tomorrow(if there's reception over there) for 'inbetween times' during cooking....so please ask if you have any questions.

PS> I'm missing out on a trip, too! Trust me, I can relate, ....AND IT SUCKS! LOL

Night,

Mark

 

I did the wet test this morning, first the results yesterday of the dry test were=170 165 170 160, wet test were 180 170 175 170, a difference of 10 5 5 10. I am hoping that this means good results?

 

I wondered about getting that thing (filter) apart. It didnt seem like it wanted to so I stopped before I broke it. I will look at the link though and tackle that today. It was probably coincedence that the truck ran better without it. Yes today is likely a busy day for a Chef. Get out the grilling tongs!

 

Yeah, that seems ok(on the readings for wet test). When the numbers go up, even 10, ...yes, there is some leaking past the rings, BUT, ....I'm pretty sure, if I remember right, that 10 is not that bad. I don't have time at the moment to look in the book, and to be honest, I don't remember there being a 'limit number' in my manual. I believe someone posted from the FSM saying "anything over 14# is a problem", ...but you'll have to really search for that or wait for someone to chime in to verify that "you're ok", if you wanna make TOTALLY sure, lol.

That filter, .....I don't remember 'taking it apart' being part of the 'cleaning'. Read the 4crawler link, .....I think "compressed air" is what he said. If it's PLUGGED with oil or something(not sure why it would be, lol), then there might be a way to clean it with solvent, etc., but verify that as well. Personally, I would replace it if it were 'damaged'-cracked, etc. It can't be too much, but really?...I do NOT think it's really that big of an issue for the moment. You can adjust that 'Dashpot-stop screw' as well, ...also in the 4crawler page for the TPS. BTW, what makes you think it's dirty? Is it black in there? It only slows down the piston....no vacuum-other than created by the plunger- goes through it. Also; Just wanted to make sure.....did you make CERTAIN that the stop screw/plate(on the bottom) was adjusted properly(screw in to just touching stop plate then a 1/4 turn further) before adjusting the TPS into specs?(I'm fairly certain that it's IMPOSSIBLE for missing that adjustment would create blue smoke, lol, ...but IT IS, as Roger said in his link, "A CRUCIAL setting to be done BEFORE adjusting the TPS". ya know? lol.

Happy 4th to you, Hertz! PROP'S, my friend, for taking this on with fervor! lol, ....Trust me, many people DO give up QUICKLY! haha.

 

PS> YOU'RE GOING to smoke a lil, initially, due to the 'wet test'....so don't freak out on that, ok? Let it burn off. Some people remove the O2 while it's burning off, ....but that's up to you. LCE gave me a block plate, so I put that in when intially burning off all the CRAP in the new exhaust system(front to back)....then I put it back in once that 'STANK' wore off, lol.

 

I am assuming the filter is bad or clogged because i cannot blow air through it. I did the proper adjustment on my throttle stop screw. I must admit though, even the new TPS did not give numbers within spec. They were much lower. I tried moving the position of the TPS several times but the numbers fluctuated only very slightly. I am going to go back to Auto Zone again to day and play with the adjustment more and try to figure out the situation. I am doing everything according to the link you provided so something is not right. Assuming that the compression is good (according to what I have read it is), I am thinking that the excess smoke, and hesitating problem may in fact be too much gas being pumped into the motor, ie it is not burning fast enough. This is an assumption based on the circumstances. I may be traveling down the wrong path on this one, but I have to choose one! I am also going to check into the AFM. I will search for a way to check it through the search engine. The motor may be choking to death too.

 

AFM will usually throw a code. But, there is a test for it in the manual. 4Crawler also has a test for that, in which the AFM, when removed, is tested by watching the numbers as the flap is opened and closed, slowly. If the numbers jump around, etc., ...well, you'll read it when you find the link in google, lol. However, IT'S POSSIBLE, indeed, that you're not getting enough air....but I just don't know, ...I would think that you're ECU would adjust it LEAN to compensate for too lil air.

I suppose, if you've got a Fuel Pressure test kit, you could eliminate the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and find out if it's just allowing constant full pressure at the rail from the pump. The VSV controls the FPR, and I BELIEVE if it's failed, it can stop pulling vacuum at idle(to regulate the pressure and allow the FPR to return fuel to the tank). BUT, seeing that you're having 'get up and go' issues.....I would think it would be 'lack' of pressure, not too much...HOWEVER, lol, ...since you're thinking you might have flooding, ....you'll have to do more research or wait for Thook and his magical autoshop101 insight! LOVE those! lol.

Hmmmmm, I know this can be frustrating, Hertz-renta-racer! lol.... Just hang in there, .....you ARE working toward a smaller list, ya know? Maybe it's not getting enough spark to burn the fuel,.... Thus, leaving too much unburned fuel and SLIGHTLY leaky rings that allow said unburned fuel to exit the exhaust with the leaked down oil.....causing the blue smoke?

 

Yes perhaps. I just checked and readjusted the TPS. All within range, and OF COURSE no change in the hesitation. I think it is time to check the AFM if nothing else to eliminate it. Not enough spark? That could be. Would a faulty coil throw a code? or have that symptom. Or for that matter the distributor? The plugs/wires are new but the dist. is who knows how old? Anyhow Hertz is the first 5 letters of my last name. But it works well as a login name for Yotatech.

 

Look in your code section of the manual....I believe it CAN throw a code. And, as I've said, under load, it's very common for a failing coil or secondary or igniter to seemingly work fine at idle....but then DROP OFF THE GRID when under a substantial load. Sometimes wires do this as well, where they test fine at idle, yet fail under load. The Coil, I believe, is tested by resistance at the main prongs. It's in the book, you'll see. I think it's between 2-4kohms or something like that. However, I'm not sure if that would tell you if it's putting out ENOUGH juice, ya know?
EDIT; I think it's more common for coils to just, well, QUIT, then cause issues like you're having, ...BUT CHECK, RIGHT?
My friends name is Hertzolg...... Nice to know you Mr. Hertz....something, lol.

Back to work for me for most of the rest of the day.

L8r4now,

Mark

 

I will add the coil to the list. I am also going to check each plug for spark. I would think it would run/idle like crap if a plug was bad etc. But like you say it may fail under load. Plugs and wires are new but there is such a thing as a manufacturer defect. Well I have some direction now. I have to admit I was pretty frustrated after adjusting the TPS didnt work.

 

I hear ya, Hertz....It can be frustrating as ALL heck! lol. But again, it can only be ONE OR TWO THINGS, MAX, most often, .....it's just that with SO MANY variables, and variables within each section of variables.......it can get a bit like chasing your tail! I KNOW! lol.

Anyway, ....yeah, checking for spark is good, but it's not necessarily going to tell you that you're wires are bad. The coil powers the wires, ...plugs, ....thus, COMBUSTION, lol. Anyway, yeah, that coil resistance check is easy, ....but I think there is an actual test they can do at a certain parts/performance stores, where they check for output under load, etc.

Read the section on the distributor, as well, Hertz. It has a couple pretty simple tests with feeler gauges for air gap and pick up resistance. It's worth a check and it's free. Also check your igniter, ok?

Hope you had a great night, Hertz,

Mark

 

Ok thanks for the advice. that gives me a few new directions. I have a new AFM coming. Thanks to the great people at Auto Zone, I can hook it up drive and see if that works...thier idea! that's why I shop there only! A few more clues to this mystery...I unplugged the 02 sensor and that made no difference and after 5 minutes of driving it cause the check engine light to come on. I am assuming that eliminates the possibilities of a bad 02 sensor. Also this morning I found that if the truck is cold to warm, I can turn it off, then back on and the first series of shifts I can rap it out without the hessitation. But after that it is back to the same old problem. Anyhow we are off to the lake and the AFM is on its way. I will pick it up this evening.

 

Hmmmmmmm, very interesting. Someone else following my 'yellow link' thread, in my sig, below, asked me to try turning off the motor and then back on, to see what happened. When I did, restarting it, it went from wanting to idle up to 1000 or so(where it was before I killed it), back down to 800....when I was at a light or something. I'm not sure if it's related, in regards to 'rapping it out' for a lil while, then returning to bogging out, like yours is doing. However, STRANGE, these lil seemingly 'mind of their own' quirks these rigs come up with, aren't they?!?!?!?

Did you check the coil, secondary, dizzy, wires and plugs? I know you said the wires and plugs are newer, but you CAN test them for spark at increased RPM. (The plugs have to be still attached to the wire and grounded on their bolt, then next to something THEY CAN'T DAMAGE to arch off.) The coil and the rest, I've posted already. Best wishes, and I hope the AFM clears it all up....but don't freak out if it doesn't, ok? lol. P.O.E., homie, P.O.E.! lol.

 

Poking my head in on what appears to be another lengthy thread to sink one's teeth into...

I just scanned the thread.....did you get the coolant temp sensor replaced? Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator?

 

TWIS is asking about the test connector for the fuel pump. It bypasses the AFM and COR to make sure voltage is getting to the FP as well to determine if the AFM or COR is part of a fuel delivery issue.