I have a base model 1991 22re pick up 2wd i pulled the motor running with gasket leaks so i bought a full gasket set replaced all gaskets pressure washed engine bay and motor and painted the intake block and valve cover through the process no bolts were loss everything was labeled kept very neatly and all vacuums Were labeled and put back no leaks timing is right on the marks valves adjusted right head torqued to spec distributor is lined up on tdc and marks also replaced pilot bearing and clutch wire harness is all plugged in and engine just misfires and backfires (like low fuel pressure or spark problems) im getting spark at the coil and plugs fuel pressure is good 145lb of compression in 4 cylinders still cuts out ive check injectors no strange exhaust smell or smoke clueless where to look next i do have a check engine light now that i did not have before

 

What code is it throwing for the check engine light?
Plug wires hooked up in the right order?

 

Check the o2 sensor and make sure plugs and wires are tight . also recheck your timing.

 

Plug wires are in order and tight ive checked my timing and valves 4 times , just found out how to check the light a min ago im going to check it tomorrow

 

Did you remember to bolt the injector ground to the intake? People seem to forget this one a lot.
http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...Yote/wire4.jpg

 

Somewhere in there was something about distributor lined up on TDC... Give this a read http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=63204.0.

P.S. Some punctuation would be great.

 

Sorry about the punctuation and i got the injector ground

 

Codes i got were 22, 24, 31, & 41
22 - Coolant temp sensor
24 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal.
31- Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal)
41-Throttle Position Sensor signal.

All of this worked just fine before pulling the motor. could this be a ecu issue or what other alternatives could there be? I also have save cleaned up all my ground spots with some scotch brite and a wire brush.

I used this link for the code troubleshooting
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

Edit: also i am positive there all plugged in right i compared side by side with my buddy 22re and checked it over and over.

 

Well, code 24 and 31 can be triggered just by disconnecting the VAF; is it connected properly?

I'm curious: you've been a member for 2 years, and made 47 posts. How did you not notice all the references to the (free) factory service manual? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf Heck, how did you disassemble/reassemble the engine without the manual?

Good luck!

 

Are the connectors good and dry? I'd go through and hit every connector with some contact cleaner. Bad contacts can do crazy stuff.

 

I have always used the haynes book, and family members who already wrenched before me on the 22r family . but i love manuels thanks!

And im pretty sure my connections are clean but at this point ill give it a try thanks.

Edit: what is vaf and where is it connected?

 

And that's why relying on Haynes (and especially "family members") is always so exciting.

Volume Air Flow Meter http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...33volumeai.pdf Right on top of the air cleaner, it measures the volume of air flowing, and also its temperature.

And since you're willing to learn, note that you don't have a "Mass Air Flow" meter (MAF). Different technology.

 

Is your rotor lining up with #1 spark plug on distributor at tdc ? Or If it's backfiring I think your timing might be 1 turn off . Line up tdc , Pull distributor , rotate motor 360 deg , put distributor back . That's happened to me a few times.

 

Thanks scope and i have checked the timing multiple times also lines up everytime distributor is lined up on 1 at tdc.

 

Try searching " distributor 180 degrees off " on the internet and see if this sounds like what's happening to your motor .

 

You got the dizzy off a tooth. Easy to do. Try it one tooth either way and report back. Take you ten minutes tops.

 

The distributor could still send the codes?

 

I too have a base model 91 22re pick up 2wd but with an automatic transmission and I replaced the engine with another 22re from an 88 pickup up with 22R and manual transmission but I didn't paint the engine block but I did use the painted valve cover from the 91's engine so only changed the valve cover gaskets and such and didn't have any problem with it but that may be because I read somewhere that with the cylinder closest to the radiator at top dead center on the compression stroke the rotor on the distributor should be pointing at approximately 11 o'clock which would be slightly to the left of straight up if you were on the distributor side of the engine looking at the distributor without the cap installed of course that way when that cylinder is ready to fire the rotor is pointing close enough to that terminal on the cap so the spark will jump over there and make the cylinder fire.

As for your codes, they're pretty self explanatory, so check your wiring.

 

You do know you rotate the engine to 5* on the crank and then insert the dizzy with the match marks at 12* on the small dizzy gear for a 22re, right? Inserting the dizzy at TDC is the timing specs for a 22r, carb...

The hold down bolt will be exactly dead center of the adjustment range.