that's.....just sad.

idk about any real numbers with my motor, but it straight up hauls ass compared to my old '86 22R on 31" M/T's and 4.10s

P.S. my 4runner has 4.56s and 33x12.50's on steelies..rebuilt motor, .020 over bore, barely 180miles on the rebuild so it's not even broken in yet.


i did notice that once i got about 6K or 8K miles on my rebuilt 22R (with EB261* cam) i got a small "jump" in power, and it felt like it gained about 20hp lmao (sarcasm)

 

I'll probably put it on the dyno again in a few months. I do know that a few years ago when I worked at the shop we had a brand new Corvette with 60 miles on it. Every pull we made on the dyno the numbers increased bit by bit. So time will tell, unless like BigSwole said, "unless super stock means, *dummed down to never put out enough horsepower to break a thing*"
I'm tempted to play with the timing a bit too. Possibly kick it from 10 degrees BTDC to about 15 degrees BTDC.

 

I tend to agree with a previous post about the timing belt. Those things can be a bear to align properly on the crank sprocket. I would "feel" your timing out. Run it up till you start to hear it ping, then back it off a degree. One other thing to check is your fuel filter. With that new motor, it will be thirsty. Very nice swap by the way.

Edit: You also might want to check with the engine manufacturer to see if it needs to be set at a higher timing. Some higher performance engines do need to be dialed in. For some that means crazy timings.

 

I've checked the timing belt a few times. Always dead on. Fuel filter is new as well. The fuel pump however is original to the truck, but it didn't ever run lean on the dyno. I think I'll play with the ignition timing a bit. I accidentally had it at 25 degrees for a few days after the first start and it didn't even ping. I think I'll be safe with 15 degrees.
To jwill321 - Howdy neighbor!

 

Up here, at 5200 ft, I used to run about 15-16 degrees of timing. That was about as much as me and my teacher could get without pinging. I'd say you should probably be fine running that. Seemed to help mine out a bit.

 

Hey Diesel,
You ever get this straightened out? I have a 92 pickup with the 3.slo and would love to get a drop in 40 hp (no body lift required) if OER's claims are true.

I see you don't have any pre-swap numbers for your 3.0 to compare to the super stock, but was there any improvement in the seat-of-the-pants dyno?

I emailed OER and asked for a Dyno chart but they just emailed back and just gave me the torque and hp numbers.

 

pretty low dyno results hey? though actual rwhp is allot less than crank hp so 100 makes sense. plus it sounds like you have an auto trans? they eat up more power than 5speeds too. i would imagine having all that head work done to it like bigger valves and all that you could run it leaner? run it leaner and runs some high octane like 94 and you should see some better numbers. im no pro on these kinds of things but you should be able to crank some decent numbers if you had that thing tuned right maybe some bigger injectors? anyways cool thread dude! good luck

 

So what am I hearing here? 100 RWHP is reasonable for a 190 hp motor with an autotranny?

I've been emailing OER and they just threw their torque/hp numbers at me. I asked if they have dyno charts but nope. Waiting to hear back about where their numbers come from. John did say their motor

"works best with a good cold air intake system such as a K&N and 2 1/2" piping from the stock manifolds back with a free flowing after market catalytic converter and a FlowMaster type muffle"

Sounds to me like what's in the quotes alone should be good for ~10 hp, am I right?
I asked for some kind of proof that their numbers are real before I drop $2,000 plus shipping, plus pull my perfect running (but gutless) 3.0 to put theirs in. Waiting to hear back. I've heard good and bad about their 4-banger work but not much about the 3.0.

Somebody here must have a 3vze superstock they can talk about! is superstock like, "wow, what a super, stock motor with stock performance", or is it more like "Wow, this stock motor is SUPER FAST"

 

Hmm, I've heard of 25% drivetrain loss for auto trans vehicles, or worse in some cases (94-98 Mustangs for example with the auto trans) so based on how many people say the 3VZE with the A340H is gutless I would presume it is quite parasitic on horsepower. If that's the case, and if some tuning hasn't been done yet, maybe it's not unrealistic to see 100whp?

I hope you get this sorted out as I was looking at getting a 22R-E from them...

 

BUMP
any superstock owners out there?

 

99, I have a 3.0h no bolted to an ah340 It is a gut less dog that cant hardly get out of its own way much less on the highway where the overdrive shifts in and the speedo comes creeping back towards 0. this motor is good for 3 things putting a dent in youjr wallet at the pump 11.4 mpg, allowing you to watch as people come screaming up on you on the highway, and it would be useful as a boat anchor. granted I'm running at 7220 FT where 25% hp loss due to atmosphere is expected. so thats what 75 horses at wheels maybe?

 

Hey guys - sorry, been a while since I've had a chance to log on here!

I do notice a difference in the "butt dyno" so to say. lol. I also notice a big difference in acceleration when I'm towing my lawn trailer too.

I don't have a true cold air intake - but I have done the ISR mod, I did notice a difference in get-up-and-go after I did that too.

I do think I am having a little problem with the EGR not closing all of the way too. That is one of the parts that I neglected to clean no so well when I put everything back together. There are some times that it is a little sluggish on acceleration, and yes the TPS is set properly, just checked it again the other day.

As far as gas mileage goes - I've been getting about 13-14 mpg. That's with a good mix of highway and city driving. Plus towing a few times. Of course, my trip meter doesn't work so I've had to go off my GPS trip meter - not sure how accurate that is since I lose the signal sometimes.

 

Right on. Sounds like an improvement. Here's the big one though. Was it worth the 2G's for the motor?

*advocates for SBC, SBF, 3.4, or any other swap need not reply

 

For some reason firefox and yotatech have not been getting along lately... I've had some troubles logging on... Oh well, back to the Super Stock debate:
I really could not tell you if it was worth the money. If I would have had the opportunity to get pre-rebuild rear wheel horsepower dyno numbers I would be able to give my full opinion. I'm tempted to find a stock motor out of a wrecked runner and throw it in to see what I get. I'm running the timing at 15 degrees BTDC and 89 octane fuel. No spark knock and it does have a bit more get-up-and-go since re-advancing the timing, granted it's the middle of winter and temps haven't reached above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. I'll have to see if I can get some more dyno time and play around with it on the dyno.

 

Have you ever considered regearing ?. I don`t know what your stock gears are with the automatic trans you have, but maybe regearing to 4.88 gears would help get more power out of the new engine

 

I believe I have 4.88 gears from the factory... I'll have to double check.
Edit - Axle code G144 = 4.88 gears from the factory!
This is from 4x4wire:
The FACTORY 4.88 V6 diff is unique!
- Axle code G144, white pinion paint code,
- generally came in 92-95 trucks/4runners with V6, auto tranny, 31" tires, and tow package.
- Housing offsets pinion towards ring gear, allowing ring gear to be thinner
- OEM Toyota gears are the ONLY gears that fit this diff due to the thinner ring gear. All other gear sets have thicker ring gears and do not fit.
- The carrier (case) is the same as the V6 diffs, so normal V6 lockers, LSD's, etc. will work in this diff

Interesting. I feel special lol.

 

I have factory 4.88s and 31" tires. With 31" tires and the 3VZ-E, 4.88s are MANDITORY for just so-so performance. A 3VZ-E with 4.88s, a K&N drop-in and a high-flow exhaust is about equivalent to a newer, bone-stock 2.7L 4-cyl. Tacoma. Think of the 3-Vee as a large 4-cyl. and your perception changes magically.

Keeping off-topic, thanks for the info on the front IFS housing. Eventually, I'll put 33" tires on the old truck (with a lift, of course) and therefore I'll need 5.29s. I was debating whether to keep my A.D.D. axle or get a stronger, 4-cyl., non-A.D.D. axle. Now I know I have no choice but to get the stronger diff and axle! That is, unless I can find thin, factory Toyota 5.29s but why bother.

 

Mine 3.0 v6 makes a tick, burns alot of oil, and still has roughly 250 Hp. I barely lost to my dads Audi A4 . Literally was at the tail. GOTTa LOve the sound of these engines. MY GOAL? Swap a Supra 2jz gte engine 600 hp with a single turbo. GOSH you gotta you tube the 4runner with the 2jzgte You will shiZ in your Pants

 

AMEN! I bought my '89 4runner, drove it about 300 miles and poof! Sweet smelling white exhaust. I will wait, save and buy a 3.4. Had the 3.4 in a 99 taco, loved it!

 

Sorry to hijack the thread but How the hell are you getting 250hp and barely loose to a audi must be something wrong with the car. the 3vze was rated at 150hp and 185ft/lbs from factory and I have yet to meet someone who has bolted on another 100 ponies.

enlighten me