Wow - I don't check on this thread for a few weeks, and it's gone to crap... Let's set some stuff straight:
1) If you're a 3VZ-E hater, then go away. Don't post in this thread, don't mention any swaps, etc.
2) Any input regarding improvements to the 3VZ-E can be mentioned here.
3) I don't want to see any horsepower claims unless you've got the dyno graph, otherwise, you're just BS-ing us.

As far as power claims by header, intake and other aftermarket performance part manufacturers, those numbers are an average of all of the products they make - whether it be headers for a corvette or a volkswagon bug. It doesn't mean that you bolt those parts on, and you will see that actual number. I remember working on corvettes, doing headers. Did two of the same cars (same engine, transmission, even same set of headers going on each) in one day, both on the dyno had completely different numbers.

So - I might have a reasoning as to why I'm not seeing the numbers I expected at the rear wheels. It looks like my transmission is dying a slow death. I pulled the dipstick yesterday and there was clutch material all over it. The fluid was only slightly brown, yet I do have 240,000 miles on the transmission. Going to see if I can find a low mileage A340H to swap in when the time comes.

Also - I'm probably going to take a cam off and take it to a machine shop that can tell me the actual lift and duration of the cam, to make sure OERI actually sent me the cam I was supposed to get.

Ok - from now on, constructive criticism... peace.

 

not yours champ!

damn me too. wanta race

wish i had some of that
what? it doesnt work that way? i thought i could just add up all the bolt ons (including stickers) and then join the 300hp club.

 

Did you change out the tranny yet?

 

I have not changed the tranny yet. And I thought I would update with some disturbing news... I think the head gasket blew yesterday. I started it up yesterday morning and it had a very bad misfire. It cleared up after a while, but then started smoking white with that sweet burning coolant smell. I have only lost a little coolant, so I'm going to do a compression test on the cylinders and pull the intake first and see if the intake manifold gasket went bad or if it is the head gasket.
Oregon Engines did NOT use a Toyota OEM head gasket, even though I thought I asked them to. It is a gasket by Rock Products or something like that. I'm not sure if I want to rip it out and send it back for warranty repairs (shipping is gonna be ridiculous!!) or just tear it down have the heads checked and put OEM gaskets on it, which will most likely void my warranty. But honestly if nothing else has gone wrong in 12,000 miles, i don't think anything else will. I can get a complete overhaul gasket set for $300 from Toyota. Guess I need to give Oregon Engines a call...

 

That completely bites. If the no. 6 cylinder plug looks different than the others then that might be an indicator. Some theories blame the exhaust design, the backward cross-over to the driver's side for excessive heat soaking in that part of the engine causing the the gasket to give in that area. The No. 6 cylinder gave on mine in Feb. '05 and I suspect it's because I let it get too hot in June '04 from a small leak in the coolant transfer hose. The recall had been done in '98. I think the funky exhaust crossover aggrevates/amplifies any cooling problems on these engines.

 

So Kyle/Diesel; did you figure it out yet? I mean it's been 4 days.

Please let us know. I have my 3 at a machine shop back in TX, and plan to put together when I get back there. Plus -may- have those rock whatever head gaskets. Forget where I bought 'em, but he said they're OEM. Probly NOT MLS. If you're correct then I'll spring for whateverittakes to get it done. Only have time/$ to do this once. Do-overs aren't an option for me. And TX long freakin way from PHX (where currently workin).

 

I'd have thought OER would have used an MLS head gasket. Aren't those pretty much the "cure" for the blown gasket problems?

 

For sure please update as I WAS going to order this engine in the morning!

 

Does Oregon Engine Rebuilders give its customers a dyno graph with an engine such as the Super Stock 3VZ-E or some sort of proof that it's repeatedly built these Super Stock 3VZ-Es and got similar results every time? As well, its website is pretty 1998.

Other issues: it doesn't list where or how it gets these Super Stock cams or "oversized" valves. Also, it's been quite a while, and Yotatech is a well-known forum and there hasn't been too much weighing-in by OER on this thread.

And a big huge thanks to the originator of this thread. His personal and financial sacrifices have helped and will help many, many Toyota truck owners.

 

Hey guys! Sorry I have not posted in the past couple weeks. Been a little busy.

The engine is out and torn down. Interestingly enough, the head gasket did not fail at the usual #6 cylinder, it failed at #1 (as it did on my other engine...) I did find quite a bit of carbon build up when I pulled the heads off. Not sure why all of that carbon was there, but I have a feeling it lead to the failure if I had enough preignition occurring.

The heads are going to a local machine shop to be checked for warping (which was OK'ed by John at OERI) hopefully the holiday weekend won't back the machine shop up too much and I can get them back as soon as possible.

The gaskets OERI used were by Rock Products, which are pretty similar to OEM. As far as MLS gaskets go, I've seen them fail on Chevy LS V8's, so they really are not a total solution to failures. I'm going to post a few pictures as soon as I can get them off my phone.

OERI claims to have hundreds of these engines on the road, with almost no HG failures. Now whether or not they are referring to just the Super Stock units or standard rebuilds I am not sure.

You're welcome, and thanks Mike & the rest of YT! I appreciate all of the support and advice from you guys through this project. Could not have done it without YT!

 

Here are the pics!!

The right side - note the clean(er) #1 piston:


Right cylinder head:


A little cleaner - not sure how to get all of the carbon off the piston tops and heads. Looking at pistons 4 and 6 respectively:


Used Rock gasket 1:


Used Rock gasket 2:


New OEM gasket 1:


New OEM gasket 2:


So basically after I get this thing back together I'm going to try to troubleshoot the carbon problem. I know every engine will end up having a thin layer on the heads and pistons, but not ridges flaking off like this. I never threw any CEL codes. Guess I need to look at backpressure and other things that the ECU can't control.

 

interesting.
in pulling apart my son's motor, I came to the same conclusion as you....no failure in the usual area , but it looks as if we may have had a failure at the passengers side front-most cylinder....like you. but unlike you, his did not have the steamed piston top.....so either it was a minor failure or quite early. I was touching the gasket yesterday and it was definitely failed in that area.....have not actually messed with that head at all, but that cylinder is a concern.

check out my son's thread (in my sig) for our progress.

 

Yeah this thing really has me puzzled. I'm going to CC the heads to make sure the compression isn't too high, and after everything is put back together I have a friend who has a scan tool for these vehicles, so that I can see that the O2 sensor, TPS, MAF, Knock Sensor, and all other electronics are registering properly. My main concern after reassembly is that carbon build up, and it seems the EFI system is at fault for that. I could be wrong though.

 

So whats the verdict?

 

I over-torqued my head bolts another 1/8th turn to combat HG issues. Works so far....

 

Verdict - It runs. I've been driving it around for the past couple days. The heads did not need any machining surprisingly enough. Everything was in spec down to the lifter shims.

I have been having a few problems you guys might be able to help me troubleshoot.
1) I can't get it to idle right. Half of the problem was my cold start injector. I unplugged that and idles a little better. The other problem seems to be with the throttle body and TPS. With the TPS set correct, and the idle speed screw fully open it idles around 400-450 rpm. WAY too low. When I unplug the TPS the idle shoots to around 1,000 rpm. This is only a year old TPS so I doubt that it's bad. My distributor and timing belts are also set correct, I have checked those several times.

2) I still get a faint smell of burning coolant when I'm driving - mainly on deceleration. Not sure what that is all about.

3) Transmission woes. It won't downshift into 1st gear a good half of the time I'm driving. Not even when the gear selector is in 1st. It will downshift after it has been in reverse. I'm hoping that it is just a sticking solenoid.

I'm thinking about doing that... how many miles with it like that so far?

 

Sounds like tranny time. All that extra load on the engine, plus pulling a trailer. Might be what did the motor the first time. Call up Automatic Specialties off London Bridge Rd at the Beach. He should be able to hook you up. Performance Automotive is in the next building and he has a couple of Yoda guys working there too. We need to get together some time, especially since I do landscaping too.

 

Well a little good news. It's just a bad solenoid on the transmission. Not too hard to take care of that.
I still have the idle and hesitant acceleration problem though. I made a checklist from the FSM of about 20 things to look at. Hopefully I'll get around to that sometime this week.

 

Now for some awesome news!
It runs like a brand new rig again. Well, almost brand new.

The problems were:
1) Loose ground strap for the injector wiring - causing the rough idle/hesitant acceleration.
2) Transmission control harness was not fully connected - causing the problem with 1st and 2nd gears

I need to learn to start checking the simple stuff first.

 

glad to hear, sounds like my vacuum leak when i did my EGR/PAIR delete....simple stuff.