truckmike26

You CAN'T find them. I'd make them myself if I had the time and equipment.

People have been porting, polishing and extrude-honing the intake for years and it doesn't net big gains, which suggests that the stock intake, as it is, is able to to support a more aggressive valve train. Same for the exhaust -- headers and large pipes don't do as much as expected. The '90s 5.2 and 5.9 Magnum Dodge Ram truck engines have the same issue. It doesn't matter how many intake and exhaust improvements it gets because, internally, the .398-lift cam won't let the air through to make significant torque and horsepower.

The "ECU" is 25-year-old design. What do YOU think?

truckmike26

Update: it is! Just put it in earlier this morning. Fits great and only cost $60. It now idles Lexus-smooth. There are Ebay companies selling it for much cheaper but it was easier for me to order it through Canadian Tire.

dieselloco427

So I'm still having some minor issues getting the idle set right. I started getting some pinging earlier today so I pulled over (just happened to have a timing light on me) and checked the timing. Well, the timing at idle (E1 & TE1 jumped) well above 25 degrees btdc. Of course it idled nice and smooth then - Now that it's back down to 10 degrees, I have a very low idle @400/500 rpm (even with idle screw open all of the way) and no power on accelleration. The TPS is set spot on and I don't seem to have any vacuum leaks. I'll see if I can borrow a smoke tester to confirm that. I suppose I'll also re check the AFM again.
Any other suggestions?

fiddleplayer247

just a thought, but did you check the oxygen sensor when you put the motor in? i had that problem, and also the mileage was suffering terribly.... im not sure about your timing problem, but might be a factor with no power, and also the idle.... just an idea

fiddleplayer247

but now that i think of it, i DID have he same problem with my current, old motor, that when i went wheeling the thing would wimp out on me and i would have to fool with the timing for a whil to get it right and keep going.... when i replaced the sensor it helped a lot, but i also had a bad fuel pump robbing power from me..... might check that as well...

dieselloco427

The O2 sensor and the wiring are all new. I even had the exhaust shop check over all of that when I had the exhaust welded up.
I do know I'm getting a signal from the TPS to the ECU, because when I unplug the TPS it idles nice and smooth. I suppose I'll pull the throttle body off this weekend and give it a good go-over with cleaner and re-adjust everything. Hopefully the Throttle Body hasn't gone bad on me from getting coolant sucked into it when the HG blew on my old engine.
edit - a Vacuum leak would cause an increase in idle speed - right?

truckmike26

I know I asked this before, and sorry for asking this again, but is the timing belt on perfect and is the distributor in perfect?

dieselloco427

Timing belt is spot on - I took the upper cover off today to check that again. I'll play with the distributor tomorrow (out of daylight now )
I ran across another thread about Bosch O2 sensors not getting along with the ECU's on these trucks and causing bad idle/no power (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rribly-219732/) Well, I did get a Bosch O2 because it was the only thing I could find that had the 4-pin harness and a screw-in fitting (custom exhaust...) All of the Denso/NGK sensors have the flange that bolts with 2 nuts
The thing that really gets me is why would idle speed change when ignition timing is advanced or retarded?

truckmike26

I replaced my O.E. O2 sensor with a Bosch back in 2005. It's got a flange with two nuts and it bolted up and plugged in exactly as the original. I've had absolutely zero issues. In fact, the probe is smaller so I suspect slightly better exhaust flow than the O.E. sensor.

Why I replaced it? Because the original's nuts rusted away and the whole sensor blew off while I was on the expressway. So, picture this: the O2 sensor is just dangling there by the wires, outside the exhaust in open air, and there's now a loud exhaust leak coming from the hole. I drove like that for 15 minutes because I couldn't pull over. And the engine idled and ran perfectly! I only knew something was up because of the loud exhaust leak. No check engine light, nothing.

There wasn't anything physically wrong with the original sensor it's just that it banged around under there for a while and I didn't want to take a chance.

dieselloco427

Thats interesting. I think I have most of the problem fixed - at least the hesitation problem. The TPS was just far enough off that there was too much space before the IDL contact was cleared. Now that I've got the TPS set, ignition timing reset, and the ISR mod it runs great. I still idle around 500 RPM, but it's a smooth idle, so I'm not too concerned about it anymore. Now that I've got my ISR mod done dyno numbers are coming before the end of the month! (at least I hope)

dieselloco427

Ok! I finally got around to putting this thing on the dyno.
What do you think?



I know the text is a little small when I re-sized - so for reference...
Max Power 100.73
Max Torque 125.74

IF Oregon Engine's claims are true that this thing makes about 190 at the flywheel then I'm losing 90 HP through the drivetrain.
I wanna refund LMAO.
I really wish I could have been able to do a few dyno pulls before the rebuild to get an accurate comparison of drivetrain readings.
Anyone want to volunteer their stock 3VZE?

BigSwole

is the dyno calibrated? something is seriously wrong if its posting those numbers...

unless super stock means, *dummed down to never put out enough horsepower to break a thing*

i know some hp and all is lost through the power being xferd to the ground but really?

dieselloco427

I'm pretty sure it was calibrated. This dyno normally sees cars that make between 400 and 1000 hp.

TNRabbit

Take off the parking brake~

dieselloco427

Check. done. still 100 hp lol.

hunter4runner

you are doing this on a brand new motor that thing hasn't even broken in, just bear in mind!

BigSwole

Its been over a month he's been driving it. I'm pretty sure that its as broken in as its going to get. who knows after 6 more months...

What was their hp claim on the SS motor?

And is there any1 here who could dyno a stock one to see what it they are putting out.

Last ? Are u sure they gave u a SS motor? Maybe shipped you the wrong one by accident?

250000_yota

Those number's just don't look right. I'd seriously question the calibration on the dyno.

In school, we had a dyno. We used it to check a couple cars we did rebuilds on. They always told us to expect a 15-30% hp loss from the claimed flywheel. Even factoring in a 40% loss, it should still theoretically put down about 115 hp. That's quite a bit of parasitic loss. I doubt it's all driveline, unless you have a screwed up trans, or something seriously hanging up...

-Edit- Just for clarification, My room mate's '93 3.0 5 speed 4Runner put down 120 hp on our mustang dyno at school, and that was with 140k on the clock. That's a 20% parasitic loss off the stock claim with a ISR mod.

tpaine14

is it a noticeable power difference from stock? like do you feel that even if those numbers are correct your old 3.0 was much slower or does it feel like you just spent 3k on a rebuild of your last motor?

dieselloco427

I've got about 5,000 miles on the motor now. So I'd imagine that it should be fairly well broken in by now.
Oregon Engines claims that the SS motor makes 190 horsepower at the flywheel, and a stock 3VZ-E should make around 145hp.
So the SS at the wheels should make around 133hp and a stock block should make about 101hp with 30% getting eaten by the drivetrain - so basically - it looks like I have a stock block... I think I might give Oregon Engines a call...

Now to 250000_yota: you used a Mustang dyno which I have read you can skew the ratings. I used a Dyno-yet where nothing can be altered and it does not need to be calibrated. I just got off the phone with my old boss who is the dyno tech where I went yesterday. He also said it is not uncommon for a drivetrain to eat 90 to 100 horsepower - even the super efficient Corvette drivetrains eat 80 to 90 hp, and a 4WD driveline is almost half as efficient as those.

I do feel a lot more power with this engine - but if you have seen the state of my old block - any stock block would be better than that lol.

Here's a video!
http://s242.photobucket.com/albums/f...rrent=dyno.mp4
Sorry, I can't get the embedded video to work
WOT at 14 seconds in.