bigstelone

i just put a remaned 22RE in my 92 pickup. now the break idiot light is on and when i push in the break the idle starts pulsing from 600 to 1200 RPM. all the vacume lines are hooked up. i am also only getting about 12 miles to the gallon and with the old motor i was getting about 20 with 35's and 5.29's. also, when i start it, the starter sounds like it gets a big load on it just before the motor starts. i'm stumped and some imput would be incredible

Elton

welcome to yotatech... could be a number of things wheres does it idle at ?

maxpower_hd

The big load before starting sounds like the timing could be off a bit. It's easy enough to check with a light and a paperclip. Ad a wrench and you adjusted it too.

titicaca

your idle is set too high, when you hit the brakes at operating temp above 1200 rpm it cuts the fuel and the engine idle drops in a constant cycle, set the idle down to spec 750-850 rpm and set your timing to 5deg btdc with the te and e1 terminal shorted. oh yea and search i know this has been covered in almost every toyota forum on hte web about a billion times. oh yea and dont forget that the tps may need adjustment too.

bigstelone

i tried jackin with the idle. when i lowered it down to 750 rpm and pushed on the brake it would jump some then die. the brake idiot light is on aswell which could be sending the fuel cut but i don't know why it is on. only thing i can think of is being a bad brake booster. i don't know why it would go out just sitting there. let me know what your theories are. thnks

surf4runner

are they connected to the correct locations? sounds like something maybe crossed
that sux

84sr5yoty

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

timebandit

I don't think it is the booster.
>>>> All the grounds are hooked up under the hood? All kind of things start to happen when somthing is not grounded and it is looking for a ground though somthing else. <<<< The idiot light should not have anything to do with the problem. That goes to the E-brake and float swich in the master. My E-brake switch has been sticking lately.

>>>> Maybe try pulling the "stop" fuse out of the fuse box for the brake lights and see if anything happens. If the circuit is shorted on some how than the brake lights should also be stuck on, you would think, but I am not sure on that one. Try it anyway. If you have cruise control it may also be wired to the brake pedal switch. <<<<< Start unplugging this stuff untill you find out what happened.


No offense, but you guy's get into more trouble swinging engines than any crew I have ever seen.

bigstelone

the whole engine has been a hassle with waitin gon parts and getting wrong parts. i got a bigger issue now than idling. i'm burning more oil than gas it seems like, or losing it into some other system. the oil was at the propper level then i drove maybe 20 miles and the damn thing is hardly reading on the dip stick. there is no oil leaking that i can see at all, no puddles or anything. i was losing less oil with the old motor that had a blown up rear main seal.
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timebandit

You can lose oil into the coolant and vise versa on this engine sometimes. Better find out where that's going. Sounds like a crappy reman with welded blocks and heads that were cracked, and other reconditioned parts. Burning that much oil would SMOKE like a mofo. Might be getting into the radiator. I believe there are gallery plugs in the head under the cam that could be loose. I think.

bigstelone

the block is good and it's a brand new head. no oil in the coolant. and it's startin to slow the burn of oil now. i'll keep yall posted

Yotapup

What kind of oil are you using? hopefully not synthetic.

bigstelone

usin 10w30 GTX. that's what the builder recomended. it's slowed down quite a bit.