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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

mercury villager electric fan swap

Old Mar 14, 2011 | 02:45 AM
  #181  
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From: Bloodymore
I wouldn't say my fan hits the engine under load, but i have noticed the fan pulley has ...uh...clearanced the efan....haha. My issue was that the efan swap was originally done on my 22re, then i moved it to the 3.0, and the pulleys are in different locations. Efan seems to be happy in its new location even with a little clearancing on the motor housing.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 07:10 AM
  #182  
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From: Dirty South
can anyone with a 3.0 that has successfully done this swap give me a measurement from radiator to fan-bracket stub?? i've got a 3-row brass radiator which only gives me a little over 4.5" clearance. i feel that the radiator i have(not the original OEM- so i have no clue as to thickness) is what is preventing me from making this work?? the fan assy from a villager, and i have one from a quest, do not fit in my application. even after careful trimming-fitment-trimming-fitment... no dice. i still need another 1/2" or so to keep fan away from engine. back of e-fan motor hits bracket, and taking more of the 'thickness' from e-fan is not an option as the fan motor shaft is only 1/4" from radiator.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 09:24 AM
  #183  
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From: Down by the River
Originally Posted by kooolr
can anyone with a 3.0 that has successfully done this swap give me a measurement from radiator to fan-bracket stub?? i've got a 3-row brass radiator which only gives me a little over 4.5" clearance. i feel that the radiator i have(not the original OEM- so i have no clue as to thickness) is what is preventing me from making this work?? the fan assy from a villager, and i have one from a quest, do not fit in my application. even after careful trimming-fitment-trimming-fitment... no dice. i still need another 1/2" or so to keep fan away from engine. back of e-fan motor hits bracket, and taking more of the 'thickness' from e-fan is not an option as the fan motor shaft is only 1/4" from radiator.
On my wife's 4runner that has a 3.0, I put an electric fan in, it would touch the pulley, but the reason I did the electric fan is because the bearing for the fan pulley seized up while driving it, I tried to press the shaft out to replace the bearing because Toyota wants $700 for it and the housing cracked around the pulley, so I just cut it out and put in the electric fan and used shorter belts and everything is fine now, been like this for about 8 months now, doesnt look good with a hole in the front of the motor, but I just think of it as a window to check the timing belt.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 06:14 PM
  #184  
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i changed my motor mounts to trail-gears bomb proof and they helped alot! the truck drives better, the clutch feels soo much smoother now that the engine is not moving so much and they have almost completely gotten rid of the pulleys hitting.

i now have the 3.4 but it happened just as much with the 3.0.
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 07:59 PM
  #185  
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From: Meridian Mississippi
Ok, thanks SO MUCH for the info here. My 87 extended cab 4x4 22RE auto loves it! I had to trim the end of the waterpump shaft and trim a little more off the shroud than I wanted but it works well and fits! For electrical I liked the double relay setup for the two speeds BUT I didnt want it to go to high speed when my A/C comp comes on. It maybe alright for some but I dont want/need it running on high while at highway speeds. Right now I have it set to come on with the key on low with a dash switch to manually put it in high. Eventual plan is to run the low speed side from a thermostat control (maybe the adjustable one listed earlier in this thread) and the high speed side with a trianary switch on the A/C line so it only runs when needed (head pressure exceeds about 275psi). I dont crawl much or play in the water but I may install a manual on/off switch too.
Thanks again for all the great info!

BTW: I have a pristine plastic fan shroud from on 87 22RE if anyone needs one.
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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 08:02 PM
  #186  
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From: Peoria, AZ
Originally Posted by RBX
http://www.dccontrol.com/2sp.pdf
This is the install sheet for the DCC Fan Controller, it explains the location of the sensor, however, the DCC temp sensor is not like the Hayden. When my Hayden was installed i located it right above the return(bottom radiator hose) since that seemed to be the general consensus.
But, after reading lots more stuff, some folks claim that the probe should go at the supply side because this allows the more accurate measurement of engine fluid temperature....IDK.

Once i installed the DCC 2sp fan controller, and located the probe as per their directions. the system is rock solid...i can sit in 100* traffic for days, temperature on the truck never changes, and the A/C is icey. The other nice thing about the more expensive(reliability has been an issue with the Haydens) fan controller from DC Control is that it will ramp-up the fan speed so your alternator doesn't take such a hit at turn on. I haven't replaced my alternator yet with the CS-130.

hope that helps.
RB
RB
This is my next project. I have parked the mighty 4Runner for the summer given the AZ heat and the 22RE's Achille's heel of overheating. I'm also hoping to get an A/C benefit at idle while crawling, but that would be a gift.

RB - I am going with the DCC 2sp2 unit, but their site is down so I can't look at the pieces and parts. Does it come with the temp probe? I think so, but not absolute.

Do you have a pic of where you installed the temp probe? Were you able to wire in an override shut-off switch?

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 02:44 AM
  #187  
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From: Bloodymore
Originally Posted by angrybob
Does it come with the temp probe?
yes


Do you have a pic of where you installed the temp probe? No, i inserted it into the radiator where DCC recommends given our radiator style...i beleive it was close to the return(top passenger side).

Were you able to wire in an override shut-off switch? I could but never did.
My answers in red,
Hope that helps
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 03:47 AM
  #188  
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From: Meridian Mississippi
I really like the DCC controller set up but I wish they made one with a way to send it a head pressure signal (like when idling in Mississippi august traffic) to jockeys fan up to high. Other wise this thing is the Bomb!
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 10:00 AM
  #189  
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From: Peoria, AZ
In locating a 93-95 Villager / Quest fan, it shows 2 types - with and without towing package. Does this matter? I didn't see anything in this thread that distinguishes between the two.

Thanks.
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 10:35 AM
  #190  
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Mine only have 1 plug with 3 cables 2 of them are + and one is the ground thats the one you need, remember to trim about 1/4 inch of height
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 11:34 AM
  #191  
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From: Peoria, AZ
I'm getting the fan online through your reference - vikingautosalvage.com so I can't look at the part. The one she quoted me is $30 and its the non-towing package. Same price so it seems to be the right one...
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 02:58 PM
  #192  
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From: texas
Yep, new one same price as mine,i think is way better than jy one
btw,please post some pictures of your efan swap!!!!!

Last edited by runnermedic; Aug 9, 2011 at 03:33 PM.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #193  
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From: NH
IS there a reason no one is using the 96-98 Villager Fans? it looks like it's exactly the same as the 95 and earlier ones.
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 06:54 AM
  #194  
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From: Bloodymore
^^^i thought they were dual fans. The 95> fans are dual speed. Just check the specs, lots of fans will work.
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 07:32 AM
  #195  
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From: Peoria, AZ
I ended up with a flex-a-lite and am very happy with it. No fitment issues and it took 5 mins to physically attach to the radiator. Lots of air flow and in-cab controls too. I put an ON-OFF-ON rocker switch on the dash where the top position is manual "ON", the center "OFF" position is controlled by the t-stat in the fan, and the lower position is manual "OFF". It also has a mode to tap into the a/c clutch power, where the fan kicks on 100% of the time a/c is on. I tapped in an indicator light off the fan motor to see when the fan is running. Lots of this stuff is on 4crawler.

To set the fan t-stat, I converted an old cold start timing switch to a thermocouple and used actual coolant temp at that location. I also ran a thermocouple to the radiator fins below the rad inlet for temp comparison. It was about 3-5C difference btwn the two locations so I was close enough.

It works very well, but I still want to clean up and confirm some of my wiring.
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 06:37 PM
  #196  
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I need wiring help....I have not started yet but before I do, do I need to buy more parts then what's in this kit?

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...20890016-a.pdf
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 07:38 PM
  #197  
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Either a large relay or a set of relays that can handle the Village Fan!
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 08:01 PM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by Outsane
Either a large relay or a set of relays that can handle the Village Fan!
I may be a tard but can you explain what your saying?
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 08:11 PM
  #199  
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The mercury villager fan sucks up about 100amps at startup. Most fan controllers come with a 40amp relay. So if you buy an off the shelf kit just make sure you upgrade the relay setup to handle the amount of amps the villager fan pulls.
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 09:39 PM
  #200  
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From: West Sacramento
Originally Posted by Outsane
The mercury villager fan sucks up about 100amps at startup. Most fan controllers come with a 40amp relay. So if you buy an off the shelf kit just make sure you upgrade the relay setup to handle the amount of amps the villager fan pulls.
any suggestions?
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