If you are talking about a low side backup system, along with the DCC controller on high side it is much more than that. And frankly it sounds like it might be more than you want to tackle.

 

It is not more then what I want to tackle I just wanna do it right the first time and not burn my truck to the ground

 

Here is some of what I already wrote up about it: https://www.yotatech.com/919669-post62.html

 

I will read it later thankyou and I will PM you if I have a question

 

You're welcome but please don't PM me questions, if I go to the trouble of explaining something I'd rather it be for the benefit of more than just one. In posts it can possibly help more people and the YT site in general. Sometimes it even helps me LOL.

I will just say that in the 6 years since I installed that backup system I've never needed it, yet.

 

Can you post up how you wired the switch?

 

How I wired it was in that last link I posted before. Maybe you need to ask how to do what you want to do it. Or read up on basic wiring a switch.

 

hi buddies!!!!!!!!
since i made the efan swap a few years ago using the wiring diagram i posted (post #6 ) i only found 1 problem and it was the thermo switch not working properly because the probe was getting erratic temp readings,so i replaced it with a sealed thermo switch and a radiator hose splice that include a threaded hole for installing a temp sensor or a thermo switch,you can find them in ebay pretty cheap.
search in ebay for radiator hose adapter and pick the one you need.

keep it simple and low cost if something goes wrong you can find parts around you.

 

I understand how to wire the dcc controller, what i am having a hard time understanding is how to wire the low side to the switch. I have a 3 way switch and even with my searches I dont get a clear way to wire it up

 

^^^ since this is so complicated for you, why not just install the DCC for now, and forget the switch till you have a clear understanding of what you are doing...K.I.S.S.

 

good point

 

Keeping this alive.

Just wanted to throw this in. This is the thread that got me started looking into options and finally moving forward. You can see my progress at the link below, well documented I think. I'm pleased overall and can't wait to get it finished up.

Also, if anyone was wondering about the factory relay system; on low speed, the fan used a low speed single relay, on high speed the system used a separate high speed dual relay. The dual relay splits the load across contacts to reduce overall amperage. Not sure if this was already mentioned.

Now if I could just find which is high speed, yellow or orange? Seriously.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classi...tall-22re.html

 

If you put some power to each of the leads, it will be obvious!

 

i think it goes this way
put power to the load wires one at at time then youll notice the speeds.
that told me and electrical engineer that works in the NASA

 

that is a great set up. how much to build one for me?
PM me if you're willing to do it.

 

I think someone posted the wire diagram on here somewhere. Might also go to the dealer and ask if they can print off the wire flow diagram for you.

 

I might be willing to do the brackets, but not the fan. If I build some brackets, I would probably not weld in the bolts to make studs, that way you would have a trace to drill the shroud with. Then you just slip in the bolts and tighten it up. I could provide the bolts if required or you could get your own and the brackets that go to radiator would likely just be some flat plate not the boxes like mine to reduce time and cost. Everything on mine took about 5 hours. I could likely finish the brackets in two. Drilling them is the pain in the ass part but still easy enough.

But we'd have to do it soon because once mine goes on the truck, I'll be too busy having fun with it to take it off again and make measurements.

Shoot me a fair offer and I'll consider it.

 

be good if I had any clue what something like that is worth. I do have to say yours turned out really well

 

After a few years of running the Taurus(Villager/Quest)electric fan, I will say that I have found two issues, none have created a failure in a way to leave me stranded.

1. My first Villager/Quest fan burned up and became wobbly after a year or two of use. Note that the controller failed and was running constantly on low speed, which compromised the bearing, the fan did not contact the radiator.

2. The DCC controller has now failed twice, this second time has the relay for low speed stuck/welded closed(ON). I think this may be due to heat or the A/C circuit on the Toyota. Again, this was the way it should fail, on constantly will not leave you stranded, funny because high speed circuit works as it should. I have bought two of these controllers now.

So after some research, I am going to go the budget route as many hot-rodders have with the Volvo electric fan speed controller($10 from the bone yard). I already have the eFan, just need, the controller, temp switch and connector for the temp switch(pick'n'pull).

here is what I'm about to do:



Note the relay on the A/C, this is due to the fact that the A/C on the Toyota will activate the fan when the A/C is off because of the Toyota A/C circuit design. I'll be using the ignition to turn off or lift the ground when the vehicle is off as to not drain the battery if the controller sticks on(as my DCC has).I will also run a switch to lift the ground , deactivating the entire system.

Part Numbers:
Dual temperature switch:
BMW Part # 61318361787 (176°F / 190°F)
OR
BMW Part # 61311378073 (195°F / 210°F)
Connector for Temperature switch(better off getting it from the junk yard):
BMW Connector housing Part # 61131378410
BMW Angled Connector Housing Part # 61131378412
BMW 0.2-0.5mm Small Wire Part # 61130005199
BMW 0.75mm Big Wire Part # 61130006665

An inline water temp snesor mount like this(3VZ-E uses 34mm hose):


I'll report back with pics soon, should have it wrapped up this weekend.

Links for the vital information I found:

Volvo eFan Controller thread-start explanation of system.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200028

Part Numbers
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=196209

BMW Coolant sensor pin-out threads= M14 x 1.5



s-10 bracket
http://www.nebraska4x4.org/index.php?topic=1301.0

4Runner Install on Pirate4X4
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...n-install.html

 

I switched out my POS DC Control setup about 6 months ago after unreliable fan operations. I now run what you are proposing to do. And it’s been operating flawlessly. It took some fiddling in the beginning to get everything running the way I wanted. Now, I forget the thing is there.

Some of the things I learned.

- My thermostat is the 2-stage, I replaced when I did conversion.
- My temperature sensor probe is custom made to 1-5/16” hose and 14mmx1.5mm sender. I used silicone hoses and slip clamps for better surface tension.
- Do yourself a favor. Put the ground to your LED’s on a switch so you can shut them off. At night, depending on brightness, they’ll become annoying or make you think your truck has issues. I put a 2-pole switch in mine. 1=Fan HI 2=LED off Center=Normal.
- I still need to find a way to mount relay more reliably. It annoys me. I bought two, threw one in the glove. Make sure you get the pigtails.
- I put all my connections on a terminal strip for more versatility. I still need to rubber coat before winter arrives.
- I have a 89 throttle body so I changed the temp valve.
- I put a much smaller push fan on my A/C condenser instead of running the engine fan. I was concerned with the little separation between the thermostat and the fan switch I’d be lean most of the time. My wideband confirmed although not drastic. It also serves as a spare fan “if needed”.

Don’t mind the weird corrosion marks. I just did a head gasket change on my 10K motor. OEM is the only way to go because of the water protection alone. See pics on that too.