MAF Conversion Mod 3.0 2nd gen
#102
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
So in light of this we can basically lump CPE in with DOA as a rather shady company to avoid then right?
#103
For me the issue is time frame.
Shure id put up $100 now to be put on a list of the first to recive with a $150 discount later. (combine that with 10 other people you got a grand to work with up front)
but if your just going to sit on that $1K for a year while they work on other projects, i cant say im going to have my 4runner in a year and would still be interested.
(speaking as an engineer, past design at that) It makes most sence to look at a market and find a product that fills a definate need. Shure that might be on 12-15 year old trucks, but eveyone and his brother is makeing products for the new stuff! so you have a deicated market that is looking for upgrades on there still good (albeit HP lacking) "old" trucks.
I stress time frame. perhaps many of us were hopefull to get something in the first 6 months, but even with another 6 months development time, we have now waited a year. Perhaps that $400-$600 burt through our pocket and wound up on something else!
How long do you expect us to keep our hopes up?!?!
Shure id put up $100 now to be put on a list of the first to recive with a $150 discount later. (combine that with 10 other people you got a grand to work with up front)
but if your just going to sit on that $1K for a year while they work on other projects, i cant say im going to have my 4runner in a year and would still be interested.
(speaking as an engineer, past design at that) It makes most sence to look at a market and find a product that fills a definate need. Shure that might be on 12-15 year old trucks, but eveyone and his brother is makeing products for the new stuff! so you have a deicated market that is looking for upgrades on there still good (albeit HP lacking) "old" trucks.
I stress time frame. perhaps many of us were hopefull to get something in the first 6 months, but even with another 6 months development time, we have now waited a year. Perhaps that $400-$600 burt through our pocket and wound up on something else!
How long do you expect us to keep our hopes up?!?!
Last edited by snap-on; Feb 14, 2006 at 08:40 AM.
#104
All true. Maybe a "earnest money deposit" list in trade for a timeline and power contingency. They might buy into that. They don't need the money to do the R&D, just confidence before they put up the risk capital.
#105
cp-engineering maf conversion
Hey all recieved a call today from Josh I will take my truck in to donate on 2-18-06 they will do all the dyno runs and testing next week,my truck is all stock with the exception of a electric fan conversion and 31x10.5 tires with approx 82.5k miles just had the hg recall and the steering relay rod done last month should be a good donor for comparison will keep you all posted
#107
cp-e
Dropped my truck off saturday at there shop talked to Josh and other partners and was very impressed .They were either a mechnical engineer or a electrical engineer very on top of there game,seen there product for the mazda sweeeet the mazda people love there product. Waiting to here from them for some base dyno runs on my stock truck,they said they were frothing at the mouth to start on my yota they think the numbers will be impressive ,if they are they will send the proto type out to be manufatured
and then test again before production I will post as soon as I here preliminary testing should be done this week dont know the cost yet but if it produces what they think it will I think they might ask for a deposit before mass producing like I said I was impressed and it takes alot to impress me
and then test again before production I will post as soon as I here preliminary testing should be done this week dont know the cost yet but if it produces what they think it will I think they might ask for a deposit before mass producing like I said I was impressed and it takes alot to impress me
#108
Originally Posted by panhead
Hey all recieved a call today from Josh I will take my truck in to donate on 2-18-06 they will do all the dyno runs and testing next week,my truck is all stock with the exception of a electric fan conversion and 31x10.5 tires with approx 82.5k miles just had the hg recall and the steering relay rod done last month should be a good donor for comparison will keep you all posted
#110
I have no doubt the if there's hidden horses in our 3.0, they'll pull them out. From experience with my Solara cp-e proto, expect a couple weeks for the proto numbers, and a couple months for production to roll out. They have to farm out the pipe bending and it's hard to set a price until they get their first run in. But I think they may have found a second shop for mandril bending so it might be quicker than my experience. Ether way I'll be sitting/drooling patiently.
#113
Well I am glad I am not the only one who noticed that trapdoor flap mechanism at a 90 degree angle in the stock MAF is incredibly restrictive and inefficient....
However I do seem to be the only or one of very few people here who realizes that a Supra or other approprate blow-through/diaphragm MAF (or that other conversion part Snap-On posted earlier) and a A'pexi SAFCII A/F Controller can be had for about $300 total or even less, and this gives you the ability to not only replace the stock MAF with a better flowing one, but also EASILY and infinitely tune your own A/F ratio incrementally accross the powerband according to future mods or conditions. So that's another option.
You don't need to be an "electrical engineer" to do this, and these guys aren't working some kind of magic on these primitive engines from 1988. You just have to mess with different resistors in order to get the correct voltage for the corresponding MAF. You can do this with a voltmeter and some trial and error. Then you hook up a couple of wires to your ECU to get the SAFC/SAFCII installed and tweak away to you hearts desire, for as long as you own your truck.
Yeah, to get maximum performance out of it, you will have to dyno tune it yourself. But I can guarantee you that will get you better results than some generic map based on somebody elses car tuned conservatively thousands of miles away from you in completely different conditions than what you drive in.
That's what I'll probably be doing. I know alot of you appreciate the ease of a plug and play solution like this and I am not trying to be negative here. But I sure as hell won't be paying double what I could spend on the setup I mentioned for less flexibility and for what is likely to be inferior performance. Especially not to get another guy rich who could just share this information on how he did it with all of you for free if he wanted to.
I guess it's different with some people, but in my sports car community we all just share our discoveries, and everyone has badass homebrewed turbocharged cars built on a modest budget as a result. I am not in a big hurry to do this but maybe I should just so the Toyota 4x4 community can stop acting like a bunch on sheep with the occasional wolf selling them the same old stuff that has been basic common knowledge in the automotive peformance scene like they are the cure for engine AIDS. Anyway I probably sound like a communist with all the "community" references, and like a cocky jerk for ranting like this, but it comes from a place of wanting to help out my fellow enthusiast who just wants to get more out of his vehicle and his dollar ad the frustration of watching them be frustrated.
EDIT: I would spend $500 on a really good exhaust system that probably wouldn't even give 25 whp, so I guess the $:HP ratio is not totally horrible.
However I do seem to be the only or one of very few people here who realizes that a Supra or other approprate blow-through/diaphragm MAF (or that other conversion part Snap-On posted earlier) and a A'pexi SAFCII A/F Controller can be had for about $300 total or even less, and this gives you the ability to not only replace the stock MAF with a better flowing one, but also EASILY and infinitely tune your own A/F ratio incrementally accross the powerband according to future mods or conditions. So that's another option.
You don't need to be an "electrical engineer" to do this, and these guys aren't working some kind of magic on these primitive engines from 1988. You just have to mess with different resistors in order to get the correct voltage for the corresponding MAF. You can do this with a voltmeter and some trial and error. Then you hook up a couple of wires to your ECU to get the SAFC/SAFCII installed and tweak away to you hearts desire, for as long as you own your truck.
Yeah, to get maximum performance out of it, you will have to dyno tune it yourself. But I can guarantee you that will get you better results than some generic map based on somebody elses car tuned conservatively thousands of miles away from you in completely different conditions than what you drive in.
That's what I'll probably be doing. I know alot of you appreciate the ease of a plug and play solution like this and I am not trying to be negative here. But I sure as hell won't be paying double what I could spend on the setup I mentioned for less flexibility and for what is likely to be inferior performance. Especially not to get another guy rich who could just share this information on how he did it with all of you for free if he wanted to.
I guess it's different with some people, but in my sports car community we all just share our discoveries, and everyone has badass homebrewed turbocharged cars built on a modest budget as a result. I am not in a big hurry to do this but maybe I should just so the Toyota 4x4 community can stop acting like a bunch on sheep with the occasional wolf selling them the same old stuff that has been basic common knowledge in the automotive peformance scene like they are the cure for engine AIDS. Anyway I probably sound like a communist with all the "community" references, and like a cocky jerk for ranting like this, but it comes from a place of wanting to help out my fellow enthusiast who just wants to get more out of his vehicle and his dollar ad the frustration of watching them be frustrated.
EDIT: I would spend $500 on a really good exhaust system that probably wouldn't even give 25 whp, so I guess the $:HP ratio is not totally horrible.
Last edited by hokiruu; Feb 28, 2006 at 06:55 AM.
#114
Originally Posted by hokiruu
Well I am glad I am not the only one who noticed that trapdoor flap mechanism at a 90 degree angle in the stock MAF is incredibly restrictive and inefficient....
However I do seem to be the only or one of very few people here who realizes that a Supra or other approprate blow-through/diaphragm MAF (or that other conversion part Snap-On posted earlier) and a A'pexi SAFCII A/F Controller can be had for about $300 total or even less, and this gives you the ability to not only replace the stock MAF with a better flowing one, but also EASILY and infinitely tune your own A/F ratio incrementally accross the powerband according to future mods or conditions. So that's another option.
You don't need to be an "electrical engineer" to do this, and these guys aren't working some kind of magic on these primitive engines from 1988. You just have to mess with different resistors in order to get the correct voltage for the corresponding MAF. You can do this with a voltmeter and some trial and error. Then you hook up a couple of wires to your ECU to get the SAFC/SAFCII installed and tweak away to you hearts desire, for as long as you own your truck.
Yeah, to get maximum performance out of it, you will have to dyno tune it yourself. But I can guarantee you that will get you better results than some generic map based on somebody elses car tuned conservatively thousands of miles away from you in completely different conditions than what you drive in.
That's what I'll probably be doing. I know alot of you appreciate the ease of a plug and play solution like this and I am not trying to be negative here. But I sure as hell won't be paying double what I could spend on the setup I mentioned for less flexibility and for what is likely to be inferior performance. Especially not to get another guy rich who could just share this information on how he did it with all of you for free if he wanted to.
I guess it's different with some people, but in my sports car community we all just share our discoveries, and everyone has badass homebrewed turbocharged cars built on a modest budget as a result. I am not in a big hurry to do this but maybe I should just so the Toyota 4x4 community can stop acting like a bunch on sheep with the occasional wolf selling them the same old stuff that has been basic common knowledge in the automotive peformance scene like they are the cure for engine AIDS. Anyway I probably sound like a communist with all the "community" references, and like a cocky jerk for ranting like this, but it comes from a place of wanting to help out my fellow enthusiast who just wants to get more out of his vehicle and his dollar ad the frustration of watching them be frustrated.
If there's a good dyno graph posted and I can't beat it with the common remedy, then maybe I'll encourage someone to spend the same amount of money that can buy you 150 hp on a claimed 25hp. But I probably won't.
However I do seem to be the only or one of very few people here who realizes that a Supra or other approprate blow-through/diaphragm MAF (or that other conversion part Snap-On posted earlier) and a A'pexi SAFCII A/F Controller can be had for about $300 total or even less, and this gives you the ability to not only replace the stock MAF with a better flowing one, but also EASILY and infinitely tune your own A/F ratio incrementally accross the powerband according to future mods or conditions. So that's another option.
You don't need to be an "electrical engineer" to do this, and these guys aren't working some kind of magic on these primitive engines from 1988. You just have to mess with different resistors in order to get the correct voltage for the corresponding MAF. You can do this with a voltmeter and some trial and error. Then you hook up a couple of wires to your ECU to get the SAFC/SAFCII installed and tweak away to you hearts desire, for as long as you own your truck.
Yeah, to get maximum performance out of it, you will have to dyno tune it yourself. But I can guarantee you that will get you better results than some generic map based on somebody elses car tuned conservatively thousands of miles away from you in completely different conditions than what you drive in.
That's what I'll probably be doing. I know alot of you appreciate the ease of a plug and play solution like this and I am not trying to be negative here. But I sure as hell won't be paying double what I could spend on the setup I mentioned for less flexibility and for what is likely to be inferior performance. Especially not to get another guy rich who could just share this information on how he did it with all of you for free if he wanted to.
I guess it's different with some people, but in my sports car community we all just share our discoveries, and everyone has badass homebrewed turbocharged cars built on a modest budget as a result. I am not in a big hurry to do this but maybe I should just so the Toyota 4x4 community can stop acting like a bunch on sheep with the occasional wolf selling them the same old stuff that has been basic common knowledge in the automotive peformance scene like they are the cure for engine AIDS. Anyway I probably sound like a communist with all the "community" references, and like a cocky jerk for ranting like this, but it comes from a place of wanting to help out my fellow enthusiast who just wants to get more out of his vehicle and his dollar ad the frustration of watching them be frustrated.
If there's a good dyno graph posted and I can't beat it with the common remedy, then maybe I'll encourage someone to spend the same amount of money that can buy you 150 hp on a claimed 25hp. But I probably won't.


