i just got back from the alignment shop and they said they couldnt align it because i need both lower ball joints. Great...they said it would be about 290 for labor then the parts on top of that.

If I had proper tools could I do this myself? Its alot of work tho, i dont think it would be that hard just time consuming.

I might go back to my old highschool and see if i could do this. good thing im friends with the shop teacher lol.

***EDIT, crappyish write up posted down on this thread.

 

It's actually very easy. I used Moogs from Advanced Auto Parts. Having owned Chevy's all my life (mostly S10's), I am amazed when I do things like ball joints on my Toyota & realize how much simpler everything seems. I'm not gonna go into details as far as how to replace them as I'm sure you could find a lot of info by searching. The first one might take you an hour and the 2nd one prolly half that.

 

Hmmm...

Thanks for the input

 

All I can say is getting the ball joint separated from the knuckle is the hardest part and in my opinion that's not very difficult at all. I don't have a pickle fork and that might have made it easier - and they're cheap. I used a 2-arm puller and a 32oz hammer.

 

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...s/upperand.pdf

 

THANKS!!!!!!!!

Dont I have to turn the torsion bar down to relieve all the pressure on the front end?

 

You made me think about & I'd approach it this way if I was unsure of myself:

Take the castle nut off & see if you can free the ball joint from the knuckle (you choose your method based on searching & seeing the different ways its done). If you get the ball joint free from the lower control arm, its a piece of cake from there - 4 more bolts and you're home free. If ya can't do it, put the castle nut back on (a fresh cotter pin would be smart) and let someone else do it. No harm no foul.

 

No - search. Take the load off the suspension though.

 

Alright thanks.

 

Dont mean to bring up an old post but, so you think i can replace em with out removing the knuckle?

So, when i break the BJ loose from the lower control arm i should be able to push the lower arm down to get it free from the knuckle? Then remove the 4 bolts.

 

nope, use a jack on the hub to jack the hub & upper arm. This will separate the ball joint from the lower control arm - once it's broken loose of course.

 

Oh sweet! Im going to replace em this weekend, after i help my friend put his brand new 350 in his 69 bel air, he was going 110 down the highway and he spun a main bearing. lol.

 

pulling the sway bar loose from the LCA's (or just unbolting it from the frame) will give you a little more 'down' travel on the lower arm to help you separate things, too. Likely not requiring lifting the hub at all (which is dangerous considering the lower part of the knuckle will be (eventually) loose and can swing whichever way it feels the need.... and having a few hundred pounds of force on a jack means it will go somewhere.

 

Thanks for the tip abe.

 

I changed my lower ball joints this mornin. ONly took me 3 hrs, and that was spent mostly on one side.

Heres a crappy write up, but im sure it will help someone.

After you remove the tires and support the truck via FRAME, unbolt the shock absober. Then the sway bar from the frame, you can leave it hanging by the lower control arms.

Take off the cotter pin and castle nut, get a pickle fork and drive it in between the ball joint and lower control arm. Dont be afraid to really get in to it with the hammer.

Once you break it lose, the lower control arm will not drop but you can push it down with your foot.

Then you remove the 4 bolts holding on the BJ, DO NOT USE AIR TOOLS (i found that out the hard way, ended up stripping a bolt.)

Grease the new BJ (if not done already) throw on the 4 bolts and lock washers, push the lower control arm down to slide the ball joint in.

Torque the 4 BJ bolts. Put on the new castle nut and then tighten to align the pin. Make sure the BJ is properly seated in the lower control arm before torquing the castle nut.

Then bolt up the sway bar to the frame.

Double check everything before throwing on the tires and lowering the truck. Set the truck on the ground and check to see if everything is on good.

Your done. lol.

I dont think im forgetting anything....but if i am, just post what i forgot.

 

Ya, everything there sounds pretty good there. I did mine around 5 weeks ago along with my tie rods ends. I just wanted to stress that you really have to swing that hammer on the pickle fork to get the joints to pop out. When I did it with my tie rod ends it was like a 2 hour work out!

 

 

I haven't done them on my 4runner yet, but for other cars and trucks I've had a lot of luck using a looong pry bar to put lots of downward pressure against the LCA and then smacking where the ball joint goes through with your preferred BFH. A second person can make this easier, but I've done it on my own many times on ball joints that were from the factory. Of course, there is little to no rust on this end of the country.

 

Little known fact: they make pickle forks for Air Hammers and they are well worth the $20 mine cost me. Less "work", not that swinging a 4lb sledge is much work.

 

Yea i had one of my friends help me along with his dad. I also did the same thing, putting downward pressure on the LCA while hitting the ball joint.