Low Idle Issues 22re - Adjusted idle/TPS still stays at 500 RPM
#1
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Low Idle Issues 22re - Adjusted idle/TPS still stays at 500 RPM
Like it is supposed to do, when engine cold, the idle up kicks in, and stays at about 1600-1800 RPM til warmed. Then drops to about 750-850 RPM. Good.
As I drive around from stoplight to stoplight, and as the engine progressively gets warmer to operating temperature, it drops to 500 RPM, and at that idle, is very rough.
I turn my adjustment screw, and set idle to 1000 RPM, after racing the motor briefly, it will stay at where I have it set, then about 10-30 seconds later, will drop back to 500 RPM.
I've set my brand new TPS correctly, and get good readings. The IACV seems to be doing its job. What other issues could be attributed to this?
As I drive around from stoplight to stoplight, and as the engine progressively gets warmer to operating temperature, it drops to 500 RPM, and at that idle, is very rough.
I turn my adjustment screw, and set idle to 1000 RPM, after racing the motor briefly, it will stay at where I have it set, then about 10-30 seconds later, will drop back to 500 RPM.
I've set my brand new TPS correctly, and get good readings. The IACV seems to be doing its job. What other issues could be attributed to this?
Last edited by BajaRunner; 11-27-2010 at 04:52 PM.
#3
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If an O-ring would be shot, wouldn't it allow more air in, and increasing idle, not lowering idle?
Also the adjustment screw does not move. It sits still. What I'm saying is that no matter where I have my adjustment screw, the idle ends up bogging down to about 500 RPM. I thought maybe TPS adjustment, but it seems right in spec of where its supposed to be.
Also the adjustment screw does not move. It sits still. What I'm saying is that no matter where I have my adjustment screw, the idle ends up bogging down to about 500 RPM. I thought maybe TPS adjustment, but it seems right in spec of where its supposed to be.
#4
baja you should request the mods to put your threads together and sticky them and make this a basis for solving problems
Last edited by yotarover; 11-27-2010 at 06:14 PM.
#5
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Yes, razed, the jumper between TE1 and E1 will change the idle... Well the timing goes back to 5*, and the idle will actually kick up a notch, I believe.
Something is up though, because when I disconnect the TPS plug, the engine runs great. I feel that the closed loop mode is what makes my truck runs good, maybe because of the extra gas. I'm not too sure. I still just think its over compensating for something (like a vacuum leak).
Yotarover: Lol I have a lot of threads going I know. Each one is a little different. I have been a member here for a while, and search as much as I can. I've read through thousands of posts, and have tried everything I've read. I usually start a new thread when I've got nothing, and see if anyone chimes in with something new.
Something is up though, because when I disconnect the TPS plug, the engine runs great. I feel that the closed loop mode is what makes my truck runs good, maybe because of the extra gas. I'm not too sure. I still just think its over compensating for something (like a vacuum leak).
Yotarover: Lol I have a lot of threads going I know. Each one is a little different. I have been a member here for a while, and search as much as I can. I've read through thousands of posts, and have tried everything I've read. I usually start a new thread when I've got nothing, and see if anyone chimes in with something new.
#6
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Let me rephrase I guess,
If I am driving it around, it will usually be good around 750-850. If I sit at a stoplight for long enough (15-30 seconds), it starts going down and chugging. Sometimes, I will come up to a stoplight, and it will automatically go straight to about 500 and chug.
Yesterday I went wheeling for the first time in it, and I was going down a very steep hill for about 10 minutes, the entire time it was at about 400-500 RPM and almost stalling (because I just was using my brake for a while). I ended up stopping and screwing the idle screw out so it would kick up. I ussually have ot punch the accelerator for it to cough out whatever's in there, and get it back to 850. Then, again after a while, it will go back to 500.
Its hard to really diagnose exactly how its going, but its very erratic. It just doesn't want to idle basically. Its pretty rough and chunky, and then it goes down to 500 and really chunks. When I punch the accelerator, it has that hesitation like it either has too much air or too much fuel. There's no "snap". Aghhh... :/
It just feels like a vacuum leak, but i've pulled my hair out for months trying to find one, and can't/
If I am driving it around, it will usually be good around 750-850. If I sit at a stoplight for long enough (15-30 seconds), it starts going down and chugging. Sometimes, I will come up to a stoplight, and it will automatically go straight to about 500 and chug.
Yesterday I went wheeling for the first time in it, and I was going down a very steep hill for about 10 minutes, the entire time it was at about 400-500 RPM and almost stalling (because I just was using my brake for a while). I ended up stopping and screwing the idle screw out so it would kick up. I ussually have ot punch the accelerator for it to cough out whatever's in there, and get it back to 850. Then, again after a while, it will go back to 500.
Its hard to really diagnose exactly how its going, but its very erratic. It just doesn't want to idle basically. Its pretty rough and chunky, and then it goes down to 500 and really chunks. When I punch the accelerator, it has that hesitation like it either has too much air or too much fuel. There's no "snap". Aghhh... :/
It just feels like a vacuum leak, but i've pulled my hair out for months trying to find one, and can't/
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#8
B, you do know that when the brake is depressed, the ecu designed to cut the fuel to the injectors for economy or whatever? If your idle is too high, it'll surge up and down when you're holding the brake in. It doesn't do it when it's warming up. After it's warm and you're holding the brake in at a stop light it'll go VROOM and chug down and VROOM and repeat. It might sound kinda rough like it's going to die and then it'll vroom up again.
There's a write up to find the wire and bypass the ecu. Or turn the idle down and see if it helps.
There's a write up to find the wire and bypass the ecu. Or turn the idle down and see if it helps.
#9
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Moonfish, not sure if you were talking to me or Bigyota, but yes I know about that.
It doesn't surge like that, up and down. It is just unpredictable, and the main thing is if I am sitting (even with brake not depressed) it will start chugging. It feels that the mixture is wrong, or air is getting in, or something that it is not running optimal.
Has anyone had problems with the rear EGR plate on the back of the head. Its sort of the last thing I have checked, because I sort of forgot about it. I think the only way of testing it is with sea foam. See if I get smoke from back there. Almost like a mini exhaust leak or something.
It doesn't surge like that, up and down. It is just unpredictable, and the main thing is if I am sitting (even with brake not depressed) it will start chugging. It feels that the mixture is wrong, or air is getting in, or something that it is not running optimal.
Has anyone had problems with the rear EGR plate on the back of the head. Its sort of the last thing I have checked, because I sort of forgot about it. I think the only way of testing it is with sea foam. See if I get smoke from back there. Almost like a mini exhaust leak or something.
#11
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Baja: Any Luck?
Seems you and I have the same problem, (well somewhat similar) with the idle not staying solid when set at 950rpm or so. Ill adjust mine too @950 where I like it, drive it for a bit and when I stop and turn the engine off for a mike or two or three, and upon starting it back up the idle has drops to 550 or 700.
Unlike yours it does not do it while idling at a stop light, only after I shut the engine down wait a min. or two restart it and bam there it is again back at 700 or lower?????????
Things ive done:
New idle o-ring, Cleaned IACV, adjusted TPS to spec (4Crawler page) 3X, checked connector and operation of air flow controller, new plugs (NGK), dist. cap rotor, set timing to spec., new fuel filter, Sea Foam in gas and combustion chamber, cleaned throttle body and plenum, checked for vacuum. leaks.....Oh yah my problem is not brake dependent.
Still same problem it is making me more nuts than I already am.
Out of all that there seems to be only a couple of things that may possibly attribute to this problem:
EGR needs cleaned/replaced, TPS needs replacing, Bad ECU, doubtful but maybe a undiagnosed vacuum problem, but like I say doubtful like mentioned previously that I checked all vac. connections and hoses with propane...
Really dont know where to go from here im chasing my tail at this point, sure could use some help here from any of you guys/gals that have had this same problem.
Seems you and I have the same problem, (well somewhat similar) with the idle not staying solid when set at 950rpm or so. Ill adjust mine too @950 where I like it, drive it for a bit and when I stop and turn the engine off for a mike or two or three, and upon starting it back up the idle has drops to 550 or 700.
Unlike yours it does not do it while idling at a stop light, only after I shut the engine down wait a min. or two restart it and bam there it is again back at 700 or lower?????????
Things ive done:
New idle o-ring, Cleaned IACV, adjusted TPS to spec (4Crawler page) 3X, checked connector and operation of air flow controller, new plugs (NGK), dist. cap rotor, set timing to spec., new fuel filter, Sea Foam in gas and combustion chamber, cleaned throttle body and plenum, checked for vacuum. leaks.....Oh yah my problem is not brake dependent.
Still same problem it is making me more nuts than I already am.
Out of all that there seems to be only a couple of things that may possibly attribute to this problem:
EGR needs cleaned/replaced, TPS needs replacing, Bad ECU, doubtful but maybe a undiagnosed vacuum problem, but like I say doubtful like mentioned previously that I checked all vac. connections and hoses with propane...
Really dont know where to go from here im chasing my tail at this point, sure could use some help here from any of you guys/gals that have had this same problem.
#13
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Speed: Well as of the last fix involving the o2 sensor I have not driven it much, today will be the clincher, as I have a considerable amount of stop and go driving to do.
At any rate a word of advice when you start with the repairs, keep good documentation regarding the repairs.
Start a log book and write down what you worked on, and the content of the actual repair, this way you will always have notes to go back too just in case it happens again, and so you wont forget where you left off last.
I ended up adjusting my TPS 3X, and im still not convinced the sensor is not bad,
do the easy stuff first, o2 sensor clean, Sea Foam etc. you know! all the things you can do that will not run into allot of $ for parts...
What symptoms you are having?
Ill help in any way I can, also read everything you can find concerning your symptoms, this site, as well as many others out there are very helpful.
At any rate a word of advice when you start with the repairs, keep good documentation regarding the repairs.
Start a log book and write down what you worked on, and the content of the actual repair, this way you will always have notes to go back too just in case it happens again, and so you wont forget where you left off last.
I ended up adjusting my TPS 3X, and im still not convinced the sensor is not bad,
do the easy stuff first, o2 sensor clean, Sea Foam etc. you know! all the things you can do that will not run into allot of $ for parts...
What symptoms you are having?
Ill help in any way I can, also read everything you can find concerning your symptoms, this site, as well as many others out there are very helpful.
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