Thanks to the lovey laws in VA and there lovely state inspection I have a failed sticker on my windshield. the reasoning was to much play in wheel bearing, so i replaced the bearings and races and put it all back together and got it reinspected and, lucky me, it failed. so im hoping that just my adjusting nut wasn't tight enough and after tracking down a 2-1/8 inch socket im going to try and tighten it up to eliminate the play. but does anyone have any other ideas on why it would still be lose? thanks

 

there's a proceedure and a specific torque you're suppose to apply to each nut

search "FSM" and read up




but other and wheel bearings, could be reeeaaaly bad BJ's causeing play, but I think that would be very noticable while driving

 

Move to a new state!

I can't imagine how many cars would be left on the road if they did an inspection like that in Alaska.

Is that a common type of inspection? I wouldn't be able to restrain myself, i'd freak out on 'em!

 

haha oh ya its a once a year inspections, fun stuff i no. but ya the FSM says to like 40 something then back it off and hand tighten the nut but when ever i go back to hand tighten it, it has play again so i just snug it up a little bit and they play is gone.

but ya VA state inspections suck u can't do anything fun

and emmisons suck to idk which one i hate more

 

If you didnt use the 2 1/8" (?) socket, you did it wrong. There's a specific procedure that must be followed- bearings need to be treated according to the fsm, or else they fail. When the wheel bearing fails (ie: race cracks), it can make the truck very difficult to control and WILL ruin the spindle if driven on.

 

14 bucks to trail-gear will get you a 54mm socket to do it right.

 

Oreilly/Shuckes/Kreagan should have them now, got mine at Northern b4 they carriers them

 

ya i got a 2-1/8 inch socket and i do the procedure in the fsm (tighten it up and then losen it and tighten it by hand) i still get a little play in the bearings, it is ok to snug it up a little past hand tighten?

 

I just did my bearings about 100 miles ago. I didn't have a spring gauge to check the hub tension so I think I found a brick that was the same weight and tied a string around it with a loop to connect to a wheel stud. I set the stud perpendicular to the force of gravity. I then hand tightened the large nut until the brick no longer turned the hub. I guess I'll see how well it worked in a couple hundred miles

 

Ha, that's basically how I did it too. The important reading in this procedure isn't the torque reading when you tighten the nut, but the preload you get after that. The torque procedure in the FSM is just there to set things properly and to bring you to the correct preload in most cases.

 

I don't think my FSM said anything about "hand-tight", I thought it indicated something around 5ft-lbs, but I cannot remember. Maybe check that.

 

right-o







SST = 1 1/8 (or 54mm) socket btw


personally, I've never used a dial indicator or tension gauge or whatever to test the drag on them, but I've never had any issues, and I've done wheel bearings on every car/truck I've ever owned

 

ya it wasn't the the fsm that said "hand tighten" i can't remember where i saw that but i got it all good now and elimanted the play so she would pass inspection.

 

By "all good", you mean:

torque to 43ft-lbs
turn hub back and forth a couple times
loosen torque until you can turn the 2 1/8" nut by hand
re-torque to 18ft-lbs
check preload with spring scale
bend tabs on lock-washer


right?

 

ya haha i found someone with a 3/4 to 1/2 inch reduer so i was able to use a torque wrench and make sure everything was to the correct torque