TOYOTA 1

i know my questions have probably already been answered somewhere, but i cant find them. and i have searched

anyway, i have recently acquired a lock right and i have a couple questions.

1. would a open front diff(4cyl 8") be stronger/more reliable than a lock right? (using 36"tires)

2. does anybody know the tolerances for the lock right?

thanks, Mike

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Daily driver or trail rig?

I wouldn't put a lunchbox type locker in a front diff of a daily driver IMO. They eat up tires on pavement and are typically not meant for tires over 31" (read the fine print).

TOYOTA 1

trail rig!

so 36's+lead foot+lock right, typically= kerpow?

where would one find this (fine print)?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

My friend "seaflea" had a Lock Right and when he busted it they asked him what size tires he was running and they showed him some fine print that said they were only meant for tires up to 31" in his application.

In the front, do it right and get an ARB...whatever in the rear, but it is hard enough to turn on the trails without your locker making it harder!

TOYOTA 1

yea arb would be sweet! just got to sell a kidney first

i know how they act/perform, i just didn't know how strong they were.
I'm already locked in the rear, so being open in the front isn't so bad. plus i have a lead foot, so strength is a big concern for me.
one day ill get a selectable upfront

what size tires was he ruining?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

31s of course.

TOYOTA 1

gotcha

well i suppose i will sell this lil guy, to someone that has smaller tires lol.

is there a tire size rating on arb ?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Tons of threads on "lockright" or "lockrite" so try a search for lots of info.

Here is a thread with a lot in it:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...e-guys-129558/

TOYOTA 1

ok, i found all the info i need.

gonna sell this thing and start a arb fund


you can delete this thread if you want!

Matt16

If its a trail rig, then lock it with a lock right, when you're in 2wd its un-noticeable. I would be getting a front Aussie if i didn't drive a fair bit on road snow.

TOYOTA 1

I'm not worried about how it acts.. i have a welded rear and love it in the snow lol.


I'm worried about loosing strength/reliability! if its weaker than a open diff in any way then its up for sale

Matt16

I'd be more concerned about an open diff allowing the slipping tire to spin at twice the speed of the ring gear when you loose traction. When it does find traction, it massively shock loads the front axles and diff and that's when stuff gets broken. A locked front end wouldn't do that. I'd feel safer with the front locked vs. unlocked. Maybe sell it and buy an Aussie, as I don't think anyone (ever, on any vehicle) has broken an Aussie Locker that was properly installed.

TOYOTA 1

i agree with what your saying, to a point. but in most situations a open front end is easier on parts is it not?

see the thing is, i have been really hard on my open front end. so i kinda know its limits. but i have never used a lock right, so I'm not sure on how it compares (strength wise) to my current setup.

what i need is some people that have a lock right, and have tires around 37"s. to chime in

NYChopshop

I say if you're running tires that large, go SAS. If its a street vehicle, I say get something like the detroit truetrac limited slip because its affordable and gives you actual traction without making it useless on the road. If you don't care, I say hold out for a selectable. If you grenade your front end in the meantime, all the more reason to step up your game to a solid axle. I have 31's and I only aspire to 33's. I'd be putting the electric selectable in the rear and the LSD in the front. I plan on putting significant road miles between trails on my rig tho. Its all up to you. I say sell the full locker for the weak IFS on big tires, but thats just me.

NYChopshop

I feel the real problem is not going to be with the locker itself when running 37's on a stock IFS front end, even though the lockrite doesnt seem to be designed for that type of duty at all in the first place. I say dump it!

you can put the cash aside and start a solid axle fund, so when you do spring for the ARB (however long that may take you - I feel your pain!) you won't be doing it on a less-than-ideal axle! With them big tires, I assume desert running isnt your priority, its the creepy crawly low geared vertical wall scaling monster that lives only for climbing rocks! Don't set yerself up to spend a butt-ton of money on bits (or labor! you're talking about at least 8 hours of careful work that in the worst case leaves you with a leaky and soon-to-die front end) that you won't want to be keeping in the end. If its not leaking or busted yet, I say don't mess with it until it does or until you can afford significant upgrades.

TOYOTA 1

i agree 100% though, i got rid of my ifs a while ago

NYChopshop

don't I feel like a dumbarse. Looks like SOMEONE doesn't read signatures carefully. Sorry. I still say hold out for the ARB.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

I went with twin sticks in the rear case incase I bind up the front axle-aussie

TOYOTA 1

hahaha, no big deal


@ dropzone

as said before, im not concerned with binding/getting bent on icy roads etc.

just want to know how stout this lil guy is.

i might just have to put it in and run her till she breaks
i just dont want broken chunks of lockright chewing up my 5:29's

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

no problem--i went with the twin sticks just cause I don't want bust an birf...with the economy my longfield axle plans are a little further down the road than I was hoping for...