I just spent some time pulling all the stuff out of the boxes and went through the installation instructions that I got online at ProComp (http://www.explorerprocomp.com/PDFs/is/57289.pdf).

The box of nuts and bolts that were professed to be "all the hardware," is just that, just a box of random nuts and bolts. Thankfully, the nuts and bolts are easily replaced at the local hardware store and the box did have all the "locating spacers" (illustration 3) as well as the differential brackets (illustrations 5-7).

I do appear to have all the big ProComp parts, minus one of the two spacers for the center differential bracket (illustration #5), and both sway bar drop brackets (illustration #9). I'm hoping I can order just these bits from ProComp, and they won't cost me a mint. Otherwise, I'm sure the parts can be made at the local machine shop or I can weld something together.

My concern at this point is: how similar do the kits look, from truck to truck? What concerns me is the part no. stamped on the adaptor spindles do not match what is listed in the instruction manual, i.e. the manual says the spindles are 90-4010 and 90-4009, while the numbers stamped on the adaptor spindles I have are 20-57089-12D and 20-57089-12P.

Everything looks like the ProComp Stage II for IFS Toyotas, but those adaptor spindle numbers are worrying me a little. I need to make a trip to Home Depot and start buying nuts and bolts. Thankfully, the instructions all have the measurements of the bolts. I also need to call ProComp to see if I can get the sway bar drop brackets and that little spacer. Argh. I also need those tapered spindle sleeves (illustration 8).

Hmm...in illustration #8, looks like a lot of the nuts in that part of the install at the notched types that use a cotter pin to retain them. I'm going to need to get those. Think it's okay to use nylock nuts or loctite?

I hope the brackets don't add a significant amount to the cost of this thing...and that this is the right one for the truck.

EDIT: I have spacer blocks for the rear with those big u-bolts.

 

I wouldn't use home depot stuff, it would be more advisable to find a specialty hardware store to get high grade hardware.

 

There are only a few of the bolts that call for Grade 5 stuff. The rest, I assume are standard grade bolts? Are even the standard grade stuff at Home Depot garbage?

 

Use at least grade 5 bolts, grade 8 would be best. Don't use anything below grade 5 on a suspension part. You'll likely need some metric bolts which have a different grade scale. Use at least grade 8.8 metric. Grade 8.8 metric will have a 8.8 stamped on the head, standard grade 5 will have 3 tick marks on the head, grade 8 will have 6 tick marks.

 

Looking at the installation instructions, the last page identifies that they are all Grade 5 and 8. I will call ProComp and see if they will sell the "hardware" separately. This may end up not being much of a savings if they're charge crazy prices for separate parts.

 

Yahtzee!

Just called ProComp, who referred me to 4WheelParts, here in town. All the bits I'm missing, PLUS all the hardware = $105. I ordered it and hopefully everything will be smoother here on out.

I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks to everyone that's offered their input!

 

After that initial scare, I put the kit in this weekend. I had bought all new hardware and a few missing brackets for the sway bars and brake lines:


This shows before and after in a rather unscientific approximate:

F = Front before
B= Rear before

F2 = Front after lift
B2= Rear after lift



Took me two flipping days to do. First day spent 16 hours just to do the front. There were a bunch of bolts that were frozen on and had to be cut, and stuff that didn't line up easily. I also took the opportunity to change out the front diff for another one I got used, that has 4.88 gears in it. I still have to find a rear 4.88 or do a R&P job. No 4x4ing until the rear gets matched up.

On a side note, in my test drive (still needs an alignment), it feels like the steering is a lot lighter after the lift? I would think that it should feel the same since I thought the steering geometry is kept the same with the lift brackets. But the steering definitely feels "looser" now. Any thoughts and is this why some trucks have that upgraded steering damper?

Thanks.

 

if the steering is "light", likely the caster is out, or at least closer to 0 than it was before. Insufficient caster can cause a 'floating' feeling and some 'numbness', as can camber and positive toe.

 

Thanks. I'll try the re-alignment first.