RAD -- Thanks for sharing the video. Is your wiring still running through your switch per stock, or does your revised wiring setup have relays, etc, like some of the aftermarket looms?

B/c the stock headlight wiring runs all current through the lightswitch at the wheel there is both current loss due to light gauge toyota wiring, resistance in the switch, etc... When going to the hellas (have a writeup on it somewhere) I found that the relay harness and hellas each improved over sealed beams by about an equal amount individually. When combined, it was at least a 1/3rd to 1/2 (33-50%) improvement over the sealed beams... Going with an improved light bulb like the phillips vision plus has added even more gains than the Hella H4 bulbs that come w/ those light housings.

Main thing to be aware of is that some of the HID and LED lights make you think that you can see better than you actually can (sort of like folks driving w/ fogs lights on that are somewhat the same) -- so what happens is folks out drive their lights and hit deer and such due to that false sense of security... Something to think about but from your vid that super bright foreground does make seeing the darker periphery much more difficult than what I find w/ my Hellas, auxiliary light harness, and Phillips Vision Plus bulbs. But YMMV.

Main benefit of LEDs is less current draw on the battery and alternator so can run more accessories, or if running more lights on same circuit w/o adding new wiring...

 

The stock headlight relay on positive side of the circuit still works as stock. However, I rewired the switched-ground side by adding ONE relay.
The dimmer-combo switches ground of the relay coil. The relay comtacts switches ground between low and high beams.No more load current through the stalk switch.
I did it this way so even IF relay control fails, the normally-closed contact of the relay always grounds the low beam.
The H4 conversion harness would be a little bit more effective in eliminating power drop over the wiring than mine (positive side goes thru stock relay contacts, negative side goes thru added relay contact) but for LEDs I think my scheme's good enough.
It's on my thread.

+1
What 4crawler calls the "convoluted path"
That's why I could not stress enough, especially to the less electrically-savvy, that a relay mod (aka H4 conversion harness) is a more essential upgrade to headlight wiring, which is should be done before upgrading the bulbs.

 

I believe this is what scope103 meant by which one, the 27450C, or 27490C & 27491C

 

Only the 27450C is "Truly PlugED and PlayED"

 

I am accumulating parts (grill, headlight buckets etc) to attempt to convert my 94 Runner to run the Truck Lite LED's, the LED Bulbs I have tried in the stock housing just don't cut it compared to the Truck Lites.
And an interesting thing I have found is that the Truck Lite LED's are listed as Rigid Truck-Lites now. Truck Lite Bought rigid back in 2015. I would be curious to see if any new generation of headlights comes from the merger.

 

Another option would be the IPF 820H housing, and IPF H4 LED bulbs. You should be able to come in for about $275 for everything. I'm not 100% sure if they are DOT legal, but a phone call to ARB could confirm.

 

Nice - thanks! Always helpful to check out videos to see the difference before buying.

 

I just installed the bright light LEDs. I can't call them plug and play because I had to remove the buckets and grind out a decent amount of metal on the left and right sides to make them fit. Lots of measuring and re-measuring. 4 hours plus. Worth it though. Incredible improvement over incandescent bulbs.
I go to work always before sunrise with plenty of deer on the way, so these lights will be used and appreciated.

 

Nearly as good as the LEDs on my 17 Subaru STI. Nearly.

 

I just purchased and installed these on my 1991. They fit perfectly and are a huge upgrade over stock.

 

I have the truck lite. Work great. Plug and play. The high beam on the dash doesn’t come on but who cares. Don’t regret

 

I had that too. I bought the h4-rl650-m motorcycle headlight load resistor kit from superbrightleds.com and installed it last week behind the passenger side headlight. It was $15 including shipping and made the dash indicator work again.