LCE Header install ??
#1
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LCE Header install ??
I just got my LCE header bolted up, looks great. I have an appt on monday to have the exhaust welded up (flowmaster and magnaflow cat).
I put the LCE conection pipe in, well tried to, and found that it hits the torsion bar mount. Since the flange is a triagle there are three ways it could go. One clears, but has the o2 sensor at about a 60 degree side tilt. Is this normal? Could someone provide me with some pics of theirs installed??
92 reg cab 22RE 4wd.
I put the LCE conection pipe in, well tried to, and found that it hits the torsion bar mount. Since the flange is a triagle there are three ways it could go. One clears, but has the o2 sensor at about a 60 degree side tilt. Is this normal? Could someone provide me with some pics of theirs installed??
92 reg cab 22RE 4wd.
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Originally Posted by Elton
hmm my lce header fit great .... i had to take off the clamp mount on the tranny to make it fit better
I took the mount off two weeks ago when I did my clutch as I knew the header was coming.
The header itself fites great, just the connecter pipe that I am having problems with....
Could you post a pic of the o2 sensor area?
#6
My connector pipe from LCE from the header to the cat, w/ the o2 bung in it is TOO long IMO and should be cut down. On mine w/o cutting down the connector the cat is off the OEM heat shield, so the numnut turned the cat heat shield up, long story...didn't route the pipe to the muffler up high...just a crappy job now that I've looked at it closer...too late to do anything about it. Now as far as power and sounding good...it is killer, but the routing could be much better. Mine needs to be redone, but would be a waste until after dual cases.
Last edited by waskillywabbit; 05-20-2006 at 06:08 PM.
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Header Install
When I installed mine I had to heat and bend that pipe. It also hit the torsion bar mounting. Where I have mine now it is a half inch from the torsion bar. I also had to cut the after cat pipe. It was too long, then again I have a regular cab.
In the end it was a bitch but I had it all installed in a day minus a few mounting points. My co-worker welded them for me (along with the hole my employer blew in the connector pipe while bending it) a few days later.
I will try to take some photos tomorrow. Its a good time to do that cause I have the tranny out. And the front of the motor is all taken apart in the name of oil leaks so I can give you guys some shots of the timing chain conversion kit.
In the end it was a bitch but I had it all installed in a day minus a few mounting points. My co-worker welded them for me (along with the hole my employer blew in the connector pipe while bending it) a few days later.
I will try to take some photos tomorrow. Its a good time to do that cause I have the tranny out. And the front of the motor is all taken apart in the name of oil leaks so I can give you guys some shots of the timing chain conversion kit.
Last edited by Rory; 05-20-2006 at 11:00 PM. Reason: forgot something...
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#9
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The O2 bung is twisted when the rest is mounted properly. I'm not real happy about that aspect of the LCE pipes. I'm just wondering how long it will take before something snags the it.
Also, the bend in the header pipe places the cat well below the frame. I'd like to see it a couple of inches higher.
Also, the bend in the header pipe places the cat well below the frame. I'd like to see it a couple of inches higher.
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Originally Posted by InternetRoadkill
The O2 bung is twisted when the rest is mounted properly. I'm not real happy about that aspect of the LCE pipes. I'm just wondering how long it will take before something snags the it.
Also, the bend in the header pipe places the cat well below the frame. I'd like to see it a couple of inches higher.
Also, the bend in the header pipe places the cat well below the frame. I'd like to see it a couple of inches higher.
That would explain my interfearance issuse, thank you. Since its not istalled yet I may have the shop bend it up as much as possible to get the cat higher. They may not even use it either, then I could possibly return it for a little $$..
Thanks for all the input so far.
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Pictures As Promised
So here is the state of affairs for my truck right now:
All Kinds of taken apart. The second picture is my pile of parts. I know they look like I just threw them down there in a pile. Its because thats exactly what I did. :monkey: Now, lets get right down to it.
As you can see the header just barely clears that water pipe. It is a really snug fit, I like that in a header. It tells me they are cramming in as big a pipe as they can.
Here is where it comes down underneath. I have the tranny out so I got some good angles on it. You can see where my employer heated it with the torch while I pryed the hell out of it. I am no good with the torch for this purpose, apparently neither was he. We did it while the pipe was installed. There was a little hole there that my co-worker closed up for me when he welded the mounts. Anyhow the real point of these shots is to show how close the pipe comes to the torsion bar. Here are some more:
The first of those four shots is from directly below. It shows how close the two are. The rest kind of give you a true testament that this system will not rust as I have put around 20k on the truck since install. You can see how we welded up some mounts. The clamps LC Engineering supplies are sub par, however if you can weld you have no need for them.
As promised here are some shots of the LC Engineering Dual-Row Timing Chain Kit installed.
I put that on there about 3 years ago. Its been leaking oil ever since as I was less aware of the right way to do things back then. And I have been lazy ever since. Until my clutch started slipping. Then I figured she would be out of commission for awhile anyways so I might as well fix the oil leaks.
The only part of the job that felt weird to me was drilling the spot welds on the oil baffle out. You have to take it out of the valve cover so that the double chain will clear. Once this is done you can see the upper timing gear with the oil cap off. This is bad news if you for get to put the cap on. It sprays oil everywhere like a sonofabitch. I know. Look at the underside of my hood in the first pic, thats after some cleaning.
Here is why this whole job started. The clutch was slipping becuase it was worn down and 1st and 2nd gears were grinding when shifted quickly. I found three out of five of the clutch springs to be broken loose. Two of them had some wear on them, thats what I am pointing at.
Now my only means of transportation. If you look closely in the second pic you can see it has sealed roller bearings instead of the normal ball bearing. About a month after I bought the rims I realized the bearings say BMW on them. How about that...
All Kinds of taken apart. The second picture is my pile of parts. I know they look like I just threw them down there in a pile. Its because thats exactly what I did. :monkey: Now, lets get right down to it.
As you can see the header just barely clears that water pipe. It is a really snug fit, I like that in a header. It tells me they are cramming in as big a pipe as they can.
Here is where it comes down underneath. I have the tranny out so I got some good angles on it. You can see where my employer heated it with the torch while I pryed the hell out of it. I am no good with the torch for this purpose, apparently neither was he. We did it while the pipe was installed. There was a little hole there that my co-worker closed up for me when he welded the mounts. Anyhow the real point of these shots is to show how close the pipe comes to the torsion bar. Here are some more:
The first of those four shots is from directly below. It shows how close the two are. The rest kind of give you a true testament that this system will not rust as I have put around 20k on the truck since install. You can see how we welded up some mounts. The clamps LC Engineering supplies are sub par, however if you can weld you have no need for them.
As promised here are some shots of the LC Engineering Dual-Row Timing Chain Kit installed.
I put that on there about 3 years ago. Its been leaking oil ever since as I was less aware of the right way to do things back then. And I have been lazy ever since. Until my clutch started slipping. Then I figured she would be out of commission for awhile anyways so I might as well fix the oil leaks.
The only part of the job that felt weird to me was drilling the spot welds on the oil baffle out. You have to take it out of the valve cover so that the double chain will clear. Once this is done you can see the upper timing gear with the oil cap off. This is bad news if you for get to put the cap on. It sprays oil everywhere like a sonofabitch. I know. Look at the underside of my hood in the first pic, thats after some cleaning.
Here is why this whole job started. The clutch was slipping becuase it was worn down and 1st and 2nd gears were grinding when shifted quickly. I found three out of five of the clutch springs to be broken loose. Two of them had some wear on them, thats what I am pointing at.
Now my only means of transportation. If you look closely in the second pic you can see it has sealed roller bearings instead of the normal ball bearing. About a month after I bought the rims I realized the bearings say BMW on them. How about that...
#12
I had the same issue with the flange hitting the torsion bar mount. I took the grinder and removed just a little of metal from the torsion bar mount and added a couple of hangers to help hold the pipe away from the torsion bar mount.
#13
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Guess I will get to playing with it. I was really worried trying to mount the o2 sensor on top, looks like it goes at a slight angle, no worries..nothing a little heat persuasion cant fix.
#14
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LCE header install looking from top.
The header places the CAT a little low for my taste. If I had a tubing bender, I'd fix it.
The O2 sensor is twisted.
Another view of O2 sensor. It sits at 2:00 o'clock.
A view straight down the exhaust pipe. The torsion bar can be seen on the left. Plenty of clearance here.
A nice and tidy engine bay. Not bad for a truck 18 years old with 200K miles. (In truth, everything has been rebuilt to new condition. There's only 30 miles on the truck.)
#15
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The problem.
Your pictures illustrate exactly why there is a mounting problem. The exhaust system is designed for the 4WD trucks. 2WD I assume this is why I had to weld custom hangars. In your picture you can see that the pipe snakes through there well, although to low. When putting this system in a 2WD you have to bend the pipe to clear the torsion bar mounting/subframe. The 4WD has a crossmember bolted further back while the 2WD has one welded in right where the torsion bars anchor. After bending mine it does sit higher than yours however the exhaust is still distinctly visible.
AH64ID and I have the same truck really, '92 2WD. I wonder AH64, is yours reg cab or extended?
Either way I think you will be very happy once its all in there.
AH64ID and I have the same truck really, '92 2WD. I wonder AH64, is yours reg cab or extended?
Either way I think you will be very happy once its all in there.
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I am off to the exhaust shop, thanks for all the pics. I will have them bend it up a bit, I certainly dont want it that low. Thanks for all the photos.
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