Issue Going Between Park and Gear
#121
#122
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
Likes: 16
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Here's a test I ran on my 22re AFM. The values would be different, but the procedure is the same.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...esting-146662/
As well, this is the FSM procedure. It covers the standard procedure.....probably more related to your symptoms than the "sweep" test, but a thorough testing is always good.
Any questions about either, post up. Including where to set your meter and how to use it.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...92volumeai.pdf
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...esting-146662/
As well, this is the FSM procedure. It covers the standard procedure.....probably more related to your symptoms than the "sweep" test, but a thorough testing is always good.
Any questions about either, post up. Including where to set your meter and how to use it.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...92volumeai.pdf
#126
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
Likes: 16
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Know whatcha mean....Oh, FWIW....it occurred to me...on the TPS....for future reference, if ever in doubt about the TPS, you can unplug it and in such a scenario the condition will usually improve or disappear if it is the culprit.
Last edited by thook; Aug 19, 2008 at 07:07 AM.
#127
I did that already (original post) condition was the same and it sucked hardcore driving/going up hills. Almost felt like the car wouldn't rev over 3k and would want to die going up hills. Very much considering that "TPS upgrade" on 4Crawler. The one where you replace the crap screws with allen head bolts for the future.
Last edited by BoostinChick; Aug 19, 2008 at 07:13 AM.
#128
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 8,656
Likes: 16
From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Right....I remember that now.
Yeah....those screws area biotch! Worse on the 22re. You can't even access the bottom screw without pulling the TB or the thermostat housing.
I use a small, 1" long phillips head on the 3.0. Found it at Harbor Freight for like $.25. Allen screws became a non-issue, then.
Yeah....those screws area biotch! Worse on the 22re. You can't even access the bottom screw without pulling the TB or the thermostat housing.
I use a small, 1" long phillips head on the 3.0. Found it at Harbor Freight for like $.25. Allen screws became a non-issue, then.
#129
Update (8/22/08):
So I let the car warm up (it's in PARK the WHOLE time FYI) and I checked the idle. At this point it's at 900-1000RPMS. I put my "special tool" TE1/E1 and I check the gauge cluster to make sure I jumped it. I know I did it correctly because now my O/D is flashing and so is the CEL. As for idle it didn't change still 900-1000RPMS. Guess it's time to pull off the TB, huh?
So I let the car warm up (it's in PARK the WHOLE time FYI) and I checked the idle. At this point it's at 900-1000RPMS. I put my "special tool" TE1/E1 and I check the gauge cluster to make sure I jumped it. I know I did it correctly because now my O/D is flashing and so is the CEL. As for idle it didn't change still 900-1000RPMS. Guess it's time to pull off the TB, huh?
#130
What is this?
Also looking around for "vac leaks" I noticed this on the driver's side wheel well:


From the looks of it it seems to be a drain or overflow of some sort. If this is suppose to be capped or connected to something let me know!


From the looks of it it seems to be a drain or overflow of some sort. If this is suppose to be capped or connected to something let me know!
#131
Update (8/22/08):
So I let the car warm up (it's in PARK the WHOLE time FYI) and I checked the idle. At this point it's at 900-1000RPMS. I put my "special tool" TE1/E1 and I check the gauge cluster to make sure I jumped it. I know I did it correctly because now my O/D is flashing and so is the CEL. As for idle it didn't change still 900-1000RPMS. Guess it's time to pull off the TB, huh?
So I let the car warm up (it's in PARK the WHOLE time FYI) and I checked the idle. At this point it's at 900-1000RPMS. I put my "special tool" TE1/E1 and I check the gauge cluster to make sure I jumped it. I know I did it correctly because now my O/D is flashing and so is the CEL. As for idle it didn't change still 900-1000RPMS. Guess it's time to pull off the TB, huh?
looks like the condensate drain line from the air conditioner. you have a/c?
#132
As for the a/c yes sir I do! What can I say? I'm spoiled.
Last edited by BoostinChick; Aug 22, 2008 at 03:42 PM.
#133
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,592
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From: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC
I thinks for the condensor, there's 1 like that on the passenger side that looks exactly like that for the cooling unit. At least that how it is on my 91. I don't think it's different for your 94......
Last edited by a4runnerfreak; Aug 22, 2008 at 04:05 PM.
#134
The TPS is such a PITA to get to on these motors I was just going to give 4crawler the $5 and get the allen head bolts and use those. I will see if I can finagle with what you suggested though. Before I run out and do this (in Layman's Terms) you mean turn the TPS counter-clockwise?
As for the a/c yes sir I do! What can I say? I'm spoiled.
As for the a/c yes sir I do! What can I say? I'm spoiled.
#135
That's why I said I was going to take the TB off...I guess I am making it harder for myself then what it really is. It got dark out tonight so I will try it tomorrow morning and post my results.
#136
Results of the TPS:
VTA/E2
Throttle Closed = .79-.80
Wide Open Throttle = 4.78
(Turn Ignition Switch ON - per the FSM)
IDL/E2
I have no feeler gauge so I just measured it sweeping. So halfway open, then WOT.
Throttle Halfway = 3.96
WOT = 1.45
From what I am being told it should be infinite between these points? The FSM states that with the throttle valve open it should be between 9-14v? I think abecedarian and everyone else who said TPS may be right (and for the sake of ending this thread I hope so too lol).
VTA/E2
Throttle Closed = .79-.80
Wide Open Throttle = 4.78
(Turn Ignition Switch ON - per the FSM)
IDL/E2
I have no feeler gauge so I just measured it sweeping. So halfway open, then WOT.
Throttle Halfway = 3.96
WOT = 1.45
From what I am being told it should be infinite between these points? The FSM states that with the throttle valve open it should be between 9-14v? I think abecedarian and everyone else who said TPS may be right (and for the sake of ending this thread I hope so too lol).
Last edited by BoostinChick; Aug 23, 2008 at 12:52 PM.
#139
Updated this post: https://www.yotatech.com/50905514-post136.html
Last edited by BoostinChick; Aug 23, 2008 at 12:52 PM.


