thook

NGK wires are really good too, though. I've had'em on both my 4rnr's for several years and still going strong. Just whatever floats the boat........which is usually water, but that aren't good for ignitions. Fire better.........which isn't good for boats, so I hear. So, water better.

BoostinChick

So I ordered another TVV and the NGK's today, with my luck these two things probably won't fix the problem. I finally gave in and set up an appointment with AAMCO. I saw a commercial that they check a CEL for free OBD I and OBD II. I called and confirmed so whatever code they give me I will run home and Google the crap out of it and hopefully get a better idea of what it is.

BoostinChick

Just got back from AAMCO, that was a complete waste. They just pulled the same code I did and told me 1 of my 4 o2 sensors are bad. After they said that I left, considering I only have 1 o2 sensor and I recently replaced it with an OEM unit I don't feel like being charged for 4 + labor. Guess I have more troubleshooting to do...

swerks

Any updates here I think Im having similar probs

tannerb

Has this issue been solved yet? I have this same problem only it has gotten so bad that it sometimes stalls. So to add to the things checked so no one else has to suspect them I have checked, timing, plugs, wires, O2 sensors, tps, idle speed, transmission speed sensor, vacuum leaks, throttle kickdown adjustment, coolant temp sensor. Now I have always had this issue but i just recently rebuilt the top end and hoped that by the time I got done it would be solved but so far it still does it. The only thing that I can come up with is the torque converter is staying locked. So has anyone figured this out yet?

BoostinChick

My issue has not been solved. I did try a couple things today though...

Even though I replaced my TPS I did a little test anyway. I let the car run up to normal operating temp. and I jumped terminals TE1/E1, the idle did not drop. I also did reading on this forum that if you jump the terminals, this puts the ECU in a loop. This means that it will not read from the TPS, O2, and pretty much anything emissions related. The car still shakes and idles low when I go into drive.

I also read that often times the #5 cylinder spark plug wire gets a little fizzed/burnt through due to the EGR. Well, my EGR is removed and I double checked to make sure that I have the correct firing order. I am almost tempted to remove the PAIR Reed Valve just to eliminate another vacuum source/possible leak. I will remind you though that when the truck is cold it runs completely fine, but when it gets warmed up that's when it starts idling low (+/- 400RPMS) and sputtering.

I have replaced:
AFM
O2 sensor w/ Denso unit
NGK V-Power Spark Plugs
NGK Spark Plug Wires
OEM Fuel Filter
Front Exhaust Pipe (Walker)
Catalytic Converter (Magnaflow)
Cat-Back (Dyno Max)
TPS
Have used fuel injector cleaner in two tanks

I have also pinched all of the vacuum hoses with no change to idle, I have also sprayed carb cleaner all around the intake manifold/throttle body area as well with no luck. The only thing left for me to replace is the coolant temp sensor and to check the compression to make sure I don't have burnt valves. I am about fed up and going to go to the dealer....

Oh yea and I also now have Code 25 and 26 so my ECU is confused as to whether I am running lean or rich. Doing further research from YotaTech and Google it can be my O2 sensor (which I have already replaced) or burnt valves.

BoostinChick

Okay I ripped the throttle body off and checked the TPS.

Per FSM:
Throttle closed and VTA-E2 = .485
IDL-E2 @ .50mm = .012
IDL-E2 @ .77mm = 0L (Infinite?)
WOT VTA-E2 = 4.58
Vcc - E2 = 6.07

I am within spec, right?

hatRunner

Hey I had a similar symptoms when I had a burnt up exhaust valve, on my number 6 cylinder. After getting that fixed all was well, I'm not sure if you have already checked this but its worth a shot.

My symptoms were:

Smoothish idle in P
Rough idle in gear
With the door open about an inch of up down shaking
Degraded power
Poor Fuel Economy 11ish mpg
Sputtering

Hope this helps

BoostinChick

At this point I have not taken the intake plenum off. It was also raining here in PA for awhile so was unable to do a compression check. I did replace my TVV and it idles a bit better cold. The problem seems to be only when the car warms up which is leading me to believe it's either the coolant temp sensor or burnt valves.

Did you fix this yourself or go somewhere? About how much will it run to fix this (if that is the case)?

hatRunner

Well I am a newbie at engine work so I had Toyota do it (I know ripped off). They redid all the valves a new camshaft in the afflicted header bunches of other stuff it was expensive, 2800 as I recall

BoostinChick

Wow holy moly! That's like 3x more than I paid for the truck! I am hoping it's not that lol

hatRunner

Well my Toy was free so it was an error on my calc!

BoostinChick

Replaced coolant temp sensor, still same issue. ARGH!

headcase

Fuel pressure regulator??

BoostinChick

^ ^ Would that cause issues when the car is warm?

I would have thought it would have caused issues as soon as you start the car. I also do not own a fuel pressure tester so unsure how I would test the FPR. Also, I have noticed that I have to turn my BISS pretty far out just to get it to idle correctly when the truck is cold.

MODS: If someone could update my thread title to "Rough Idle When Warm" it better describes my issue.