Issue Going Between Park and Gear
Aug 17, 2008 | 09:40 PM
#102
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From: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC
Hey, this isn't my first yota 4x4, pal, but it is my 1st ...*cough....cough* automatic......so lighten up! And your just mad cuz up until recently, you believed blinker fluid was real......and you've asked for it, I'm sending Norbert directly to your place to move in!!!!!!
Last edited by a4runnerfreak; Aug 17, 2008 at 09:47 PM.
Aug 17, 2008 | 09:49 PM
#106
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Hey, this isn't my first yota 4x4, pal, but it is my 1st ...*cough....cough* automatic......so lighten up! And your just mad cuz up until recently, you believed blinker fluid was real......and you've asked for it, I'm sending Norbert directly to your place to move in!!!!!!
Aug 17, 2008 | 10:00 PM
#107
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From: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC
Aug 17, 2008 | 10:07 PM
#110
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From: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC
I was locked in a room once. I died in that room. They buried me. 2 roses grew on my grave. 1 grew up, the other grew down, tickled my nose. Drove me crazy. Crazy, I was crazy once,they locked me in a room. I died in that room. They buried me. 2 roses grew on my grave,1 grew up, the other grew down, tickled my nose. Drove me crazy. Crazy, I was crazy once......
Aug 18, 2008 | 05:22 AM
#114
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From: Abington, PA
so let's forget the fact that that the ecu is expecting the egr system to operate properly and send some exhaust back into the intake, and that some of that exhaust is 'unburnt' and that it's supposed to be there and isn't....
let's go over the causes of a lean mixture- you're getting the code for a prolonged 'lean' condition, not a code for an O2 sensor malfunction
1) unmetered air entering the engine (vacuum leak in the intake)
2) insufficient fuel being metered in proportion to the air being drawn in (maladjusted AFM, fuel injectors)
3) faulting O2 sensor (well, no code for that- the ecu is pretty smart)
4) faulting AIR system (what's that? go look)
5) exhaust leak (causes the O2 to read lean)
6) EGR system malfunction (high exhaust temps can fool the O2, not to mention the chemical reactions that are supposed to take place don't so there is more "O" in the exhaust than the ECU expects and consequently a 'lean' mixture)
You're not dealing with an Eclipse or MAF or MAP sensor equipped vehicle. Stop overanalysing the problem and realise the system isn't perfect. The devil is in the details here. It's not a simple x=y problem with an older toyota.
Oscilloscope... point, trace, methodical, eliminate....
let's go over the causes of a lean mixture- you're getting the code for a prolonged 'lean' condition, not a code for an O2 sensor malfunction
1) unmetered air entering the engine (vacuum leak in the intake)
2) insufficient fuel being metered in proportion to the air being drawn in (maladjusted AFM, fuel injectors)
3) faulting O2 sensor (well, no code for that- the ecu is pretty smart)
4) faulting AIR system (what's that? go look)
5) exhaust leak (causes the O2 to read lean)
6) EGR system malfunction (high exhaust temps can fool the O2, not to mention the chemical reactions that are supposed to take place don't so there is more "O" in the exhaust than the ECU expects and consequently a 'lean' mixture)
You're not dealing with an Eclipse or MAF or MAP sensor equipped vehicle. Stop overanalysing the problem and realise the system isn't perfect. The devil is in the details here. It's not a simple x=y problem with an older toyota.
Oscilloscope... point, trace, methodical, eliminate....
Aug 18, 2008 | 06:03 AM
#115
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Older as in yours....or any 1st and 2nd gen 4rnr's, trucks, etc equipped with early EFI designs. eg. vein style air flow meters and other non-ECM controlled sensors. Improvements in efficiency and diagnostics systems were made afteward.
You can, however, go to a certified mechanic and have them hook up their diagnostic scanner that would help pinpoint it more quickly. Then, take it home and fix it.
You can, however, go to a certified mechanic and have them hook up their diagnostic scanner that would help pinpoint it more quickly. Then, take it home and fix it.
Aug 18, 2008 | 06:10 AM
#116
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From: Abington, PA
Older as in yours....or any 1st and 2nd gen 4rnr's, trucks, etc equipped with early EFI designs. eg. vein style air flow meters and other non-ECM controlled sensors. Improvements in efficiency and diagnostics systems were made afteward.
You can, however, go to a certified mechanic and have them hook up their diagnostic scanner that would help pinpoint it more quickly. Then, take it home and fix it.
You can, however, go to a certified mechanic and have them hook up their diagnostic scanner that would help pinpoint it more quickly. Then, take it home and fix it.
I was also going to jump TE1/E1 to see if the idle changes to verify my TPS to make sure my eyes weren't fooling me when I tested it the other day. I was looking into advancing the timing to 12* but then I was reading you will more then likely need to use 93+ octane so I will pass on that "mod" for now.
Aug 18, 2008 | 07:10 AM
#117
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Yeah...well...I've done that a time or two. It did help initially. The scanner gave readings of all the electronic functions, outputs, inputs....all that jazz. Some things were quickly eliminated. I still had to go through and test a couple pieces of equipment. It was a while back, so I don't remember the details.
Nonetheless, there are some good pointers in this thread.
Nonetheless, there are some good pointers in this thread.
Aug 18, 2008 | 07:12 AM
#118
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From: Abington, PA
Aside from the muffler bearings and blinker fluid I agree.
Do you think it would be a good idea to take the air intake chamber off to replace my TVV (currently blocked), coolant temp sensor, and anything else I can access while it's off? Or do you think the TVV would just be a waste of money?
Do you think it would be a good idea to take the air intake chamber off to replace my TVV (currently blocked), coolant temp sensor, and anything else I can access while it's off? Or do you think the TVV would just be a waste of money?
Aug 18, 2008 | 07:34 AM
#119
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
My 3.0 runs just great without the EGR system. So, if you are to take that as any comparative factor, I'd say yes...it's a waste of money.
You can test the coolant sensor without removing the plenum. Hell...you can even remove the sensor without removing the plenum. You just need a flex adapter and deep well socket....as I recall. It's not fun or particularly easy, but it's doable. It's up to you. Personally, I'd try to remove the sensor sans the plenum and test it that way. If you are to remove the plenum, you will need new gaskets for reinstalling it. Also, you have to deal with vacuum lines. I like to avoid doing that if possible so as not to potentially create leaks when you are already dealing with an issue that could be related. Know what I mean?
Did you manage to jump the TE1-E1 terminals to verify TPS functioning, yet?
And, what about the airflow meter?
You can test the coolant sensor without removing the plenum. Hell...you can even remove the sensor without removing the plenum. You just need a flex adapter and deep well socket....as I recall. It's not fun or particularly easy, but it's doable. It's up to you. Personally, I'd try to remove the sensor sans the plenum and test it that way. If you are to remove the plenum, you will need new gaskets for reinstalling it. Also, you have to deal with vacuum lines. I like to avoid doing that if possible so as not to potentially create leaks when you are already dealing with an issue that could be related. Know what I mean?
Did you manage to jump the TE1-E1 terminals to verify TPS functioning, yet?
And, what about the airflow meter?
Aug 18, 2008 | 07:38 AM
#120
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
BTW, the only thing on that cluster behind/below the plenum that could be related to your problem is the coolant temp sensor. Another reason I suggest leaving it on. You have the cold start timing switch (unrelated), the TVV (unrelated since it's blocked off....in other words, not a source of vac leak), the temp guage sending unit (that's obviously unrelated), and possibly a temp switch for the auto tranny. But, that's related to shifting...not motor function.
