irab88's '93 SR5 conversion thread
08-08-2012, 08:23 AM
#81
Irab I have been reading a lot of stuff on power option swaps and you seem to be the resident expert. I was wondering if you could help me out with a question about power door upgrades. I have a 93 p/u and and 89 parts truck. My parts truck has full power options and I was thinking about just swapping the doors over for ease of setup and because my 93 has rust showing in lots of small areas. If I do the door swap will it be easy to run the hot lead(s) and get both windows running on the drivers side switch? passenger switch should work as well. also same question for the power mirrors and locks. Thank you for doing all the research and letting us less technical savy guys learn from your experience.
08-08-2012, 08:51 AM
#82
try it. that's what i do. find out what wires go where, take the door panels off, and put something together.
the thing about the door switches is that they run to a single control box not located in the doors. mine is a few relays in the center console. you may have to run a few more wires than just a ground and hot
the thing about the door switches is that they run to a single control box not located in the doors. mine is a few relays in the center console. you may have to run a few more wires than just a ground and hot
09-01-2012, 04:26 PM
#84
worked on my interior today.
old radio/hvac trim
first up, this is the ignition light that i got up and running. works well. it stays on a few seconds after you close the door.
i realized i had a lot of accessories, so i added a terminal block (20 amp fused)
and the new bezel
back together
old radio/hvac trim
first up, this is the ignition light that i got up and running. works well. it stays on a few seconds after you close the door.
i realized i had a lot of accessories, so i added a terminal block (20 amp fused)
and the new bezel
back together
03-13-2015, 10:35 AM
#87
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03-23-2015, 06:08 AM
#88
yeah, that bolted right in in place of the crank regulator. two wires to the motor (+/- for up, -/+ for down) and the circuit for the buttons as shown below.
it has 4 bolt holes, while the crank has 3. i used the same 3 bolts (omitting the 4th) in the new regulator and it works fine. i should have put in a 4th to be totally secure, but whatever
edit: cleaner circuit design:
it has 4 bolt holes, while the crank has 3. i used the same 3 bolts (omitting the 4th) in the new regulator and it works fine. i should have put in a 4th to be totally secure, but whatever
edit: cleaner circuit design:
Last edited by irab88; 03-23-2015 at 06:41 AM.
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