well... first let me please, express my appreciatiion for the patience and respect shown to me by y'all. I appologize for the lengthy attempt, it's been a struggle with weather, my physical abilities/ limitations and life I general. I am, however, plugging away at it thanks to you generous folks
So....... I've cleaned the contacts (LOVE my dremmel! until they're nice and shiny
my question NOW is......... is there any way to clean corroded wires? See pic.......
wow, my hand looks so ugly. ....
Look the wire, not my hand...... lol

 

well... first let me please, express my appreciatiion for the patience and respect shown to me by y'all. I appologize for the lengthy attempt, it's been a struggle with weather, my physical abilities/ limitations and life I general. I am, however, plugging away at it thanks to you generous folks
So....... I've cleaned the contacts (LOVE my dremmel! until they're nice and shiny
my question NOW is......... is there any way to clean corroded wires? See pic.......
wow, my hand looks so ugly. ....
Look the wire, not my hand...... lol

 

Good job on the signature, Little_Lucy, and we appreciate your perseverance!

Where does that wire go? The exposed corroded section does not matter much. It's when the corrosion gets between the wire itself and the other metal that it's supposed to make contact with - like the inner wall of that crimped terminal. If you have enough wire length left, what I would do is cut off the wire as close as possible to the crimp, de-solder the wire to access as many individual strands as possible, sand the corrosion off with very fine waterproof sandpaper (I use 600 grit because that's what I've got), dip newly cleaned wire in flux, crimp new connector on, solder to make solder flow into voids.
Your next challenge would be how to check and/or fix any corrosion inside where the other end goes into. Is that the wire going into the starter motor?

 

That wire powers the brush assembly. Ideally it would be clean and shiny (electrons flow more readily along the surface of a wire, we use stranded wire for more surface area, flexibility, and redundancy).

There is a decent constructable Instructable article on rebuilding this starter, if you want to go hard core on it. It doesn't cover that wire but I assume it's 10-8 guage and soldered.

 

I tested the continuity tween the blue power wire to the solenoid and it's good yay me :-) More than just a paper weight
Shiny parts
I'm gonna button her up and bench test.......

to be continued

 

Nice job, Little_Lucy!
As extra measure and if possible, pls keep that multi-meter setup and watch the resistance as you turn the starter motor rotor by hand.
Just be extra careful with the insulators to prevent shorts, and do your test away from that gas tank - LOL! Best to have an assistant hold the assembly in place.
Connect positive and negative (starter body/mounting ears) jumper cables to battery and activate by connecting battery positive to spade terminal of solenoid coil.

When starter is fixed, also fix the wrong wiring of the starter relay according to this:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52297396

 

I did bench test the starter
the plunger pops out but does not turn
I will check for voltage drop using multimeter
I did not, however ,take the solenoid out of the equation. The blue power wire gave me a reading of 5.7 but all of the videos had 6 (as good) is that a sign of weakness in that wire ?
aaawwww NUTS!!

 

you have 5.7, the video has 6 but I have 8.

Lucy please put down some units to go with your measurements. OHMs? Volts? Inches? Are you talking about voltage drop? that would be how much is used or lost between two points (resistance or load) and could mean different things depending on what two points you are probing and I can't watch the video, firewall blocks it.

 

Well heck....... I took my starter to Autozone today and had them test it. It failed, performing exactlyas it had during my bench test. The plunger plunged but did not turn. I sprang for the replacement and had them bench test the newly purchased unit prior to leaving. It performed robustly, plunging AND spinning. So when l install it tomorrow , in the event it does not perform, I'll know it's definitely NOT the starter.
l believe it was, probably, the blue power wire to the solenoid that was minimally corroded at both ends. I probably could have repaired that but, honestly, I'm over it. The lack of wheels had impacted my life drastically. I'll let you know how it goes........ Thank you so much for all of your input. Honestly I'm so grateful to you!!!!!

 

Good troubleshooting work, Little_Lucy. Now we know that the starter is absolutely defective before you go out and replace it. IF you have the room to store it, and would like to go though the exercise of doing an autopsy later, it would be nice.

Next,
1) I would thoroughly trace where that red wire with white stripe goes and fix the way it's ran. It's awfully close to starter body; vibration can wear out its insulation and you'll have another problem to deal with.
2) Look into the fuse block and those three ring terminals. They should hook up into the fuse block like this...

3) Look into your starter relay wiring like I mentioned above, IF you want to extend the life of your ignition switch ST1 contacts, and prevent future C.O.R. / relay click but no crank problem.

 

Hi all
I installed the new(rebuilt) starter and she fired right up......sheesh!! I could have done that weeks ago but the coincidental timing with new battery install just didn't seem natural, lol
talk about stubborn!!
I could not keep the old starter due to the$40 core charge!! Yikes
Thank you all so much for your time and patience
The good news........I fixed it!! >>>>>I am Spartacus <<<<<<<
The bad news....... I'll be back next project

 

Many would have decided to do that within the first half-hour, replacing a GOOD starter, scraping off corrosion and tightening connections in the process, and when truck starts thinking, "Man, am I brilliant!"
Keeping a truck reliable is an ongoing project, like the way they keep 747's safe for around 30 years or maybe more. Aside from routine maintenance, I often inspect random things on my truck to see problems before they occur and I'm always improving things. I consider it a project that i drive daily.
Fortunately, things on our trucks are very visible and accessible. Some rainy days I'd in the garage lying under the truck for minutes, just looking at stuff
You did better than most, while learning mew things. Imagine how much time/money you would save in the future with what you just learned.

 

Ya know RAD you should probably be rewarding me for all the times I have to agree with you

So that fine whisky you have has nothing to do with you lying under the truck.

Congrats to Lucy

 

LOL! Whiskey helps, too

 

Haha
I like whisky
Jamesons with an ice cold Mac and Jack
yummmmmm
so the upside is the radio that would work sporadically is now fixed and l learned that it is one of the three ring terminals that I cleaned and the power wire that I replaced that was three culprit.....yay...... that's almost as good as it starting! I have tunes, horn and flashers and I can charge my phone to boot
thanks guys!!
The new starter sounds funny to me, compared to the old one lol

 

Is the new starter a Denso? I know my Denso sounds different than any of the off shelf brands.

 

Something I just learned a couple of days ago. This is important!!
- If it's Irish, it's whiskey.
- If it's Scotch, it's whisky (no "e")

So, technically that Jameson (which I love - good choice) is whiskey.

OK, back to batteries and starters now...

 

Always learning something new everyday...

 

Are you saying it is telling jokes?