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eehhhhh i think its very hard to teach someone how to test circuits with a multimeter propperly online.. multimeters are finnicky.
quote:
"Thomm well if the outside being dirty meaning it needs replaced she needs a whole new body and mayne engine, cause that engine bay is not all shining and such. Point being its very hard to say what path an electron is going to choose with the human eye, best to get out the multi-meter and see what is really going on."
yes boss, but battery terminals are exposed to the elements and i can see white all over that negative terminal, which in my experience means turning it over and finding more white all over the inside where the wire crimps in.
and u see,her car was running and startung fine before she changed the battery.
Last edited by Thommo Thompson; 12-31-2017 at 08:34 PM.
I was looking at the factory ground. She replaced the positive cable end after or during the battery swap. There isn't a wire crimped in between that "repair" lug from the looks of it.
Lucy, if there isn't a heavy guage wire in that cinch down point you can loose that top section of the connector ( two bolts direct to the cable end with the two rings terminals) it will remove a point of failure/corrosion. Don't forget to scrub them up clean and shiny.
...Lucy, if there isn't a heavy guage wire in that cinch down point you can loose that top section of the connector ( two bolts direct to the cable end with the two rings terminals) it will remove a point of failure/corrosion.
The paper weight,lol
Hello again
here's what I have done thus far....
Cleaned battery termnals and connectors, changed out the positive terminal coonnecter for new, installed new power wire from positive battery terminal to fuse{where, incidently, there is no fuse} charged battery fully, cleaned all connections to the solenoid and starter {except the one under the large gray rubber cover {I couldn''t get it off :} all conections have been sanded to shiny metal. The only change is that the solenoid seems to be clicking more energetically, yet still no starter activity. Damn
I will be removing the starter today, I suppose , in order to clean contacts etc...... Damn
as requested here are pics of engine bay, fuse box, battery, starter and analog multimeter that I do not know how to use. It's so dang cold out that my hands can only work for a couple of hours at a time......thanks for sticking around and helping me!! I truly appprciate it
I'm going to have to look up how to clean my engine bay Starter..... Gray plug that I couldn't remove in mid right
I'm a small (some say tiny) gal and l can barely get in there. Idk how big guys do it
Last edited by Little Lucy 27; 01-03-2018 at 05:19 AM.
The only change is that the solenoid seems to be clicking more energetically, yet still no starter activity.
I will be removing the starter today, I suppose , in order to clean contacts etc...... Damn Starter..... Gray plug that I couldn't remove in mid right
GOOD JOB, Little_Lucy! Inspect that solenoid, especially the contacts first, and how it connects to stater MOTOR.
I notice that you have a starter relay. Like I said above, Toyota wired it wrong at the factory. We'll fix that soon. Robust fix costs $11 or so.
Originally Posted by Little Lucy 27
More picsThe three ring terminals in the bottom right were/are attached(screwed) to the fusebox along with the power wire
Yes, those three terminals belong there.
However, like I said, please put us in front of that engine compartment. We need to see, what you are dealing with. And you need to tell us what you hear and feel what;s going on with the engine /starter/relays. We need to see wire colors. Therefore, please:
1) Post clearer picture of those terminals.
2) Show us exactly where they connected.
3) Show clear picture of top of fuse block. We need to see labels on fuses.
4) Show us clear picture of bottom of fuse block, so we can see whether wiring is OK or butchered.
But, Repeat: Inspect that solenoid, especially the contacts first, and how it connects to stater MOTOR.
Your assignment is attached.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-03-2018 at 05:06 PM.
hang on, ur batery has 2.7 volts. ur multimeter is on the 5 volt scale.
Hinay-hinay lang, Thommo-- LOL! She says...
Originally Posted by Little Lucy 27
... and analog multimeter that I do not know how to use....
I sent her instructions how to use it^^^. But that's for after she checks the solenoid contacts.
Little_Lucy,
While you're at the starter solenoid, Disconnect the wire with brown connector here. (That's the control input to starter solenoid coil). It should have continuity to pin 2 here, and to nothing else (Ignore the rest of the picture- we'll deal with those later):
How do you do that? Refer to Multi-meter resistance (RX1) setting I attached above. Then, keep us posted with exactly what you see, hear, feel, smell ( I hope not smoke ) about the battery/starter/engine.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-04-2018 at 08:27 AM.
Ok...... in the crummy pics ...... l believe that the multimeter is set to 25dc (there is a dot that l think is the"setting" ) the dial makes it look like it's set elsewhere. Now l own the Harbor Freight cheapo digital multimeter STILL a paper weight lol But I'm determined to learn how to use the darned thing.... hint hint nudge nudge
l did, in fact, remove the starter.......
my question is........... how worn is too worn? Please look at the pics of the plunger thing with gear type teeth and tell me if you think that l should just buy a new starter, please
To answer some questions....
the red and white wires that disappear over the top and behind the starter go to the ignition, I'm pretty sure.
obviously, the copper contacts need to be cleaned, but, the gear seems worn, and.......what's with the shiny worn parts?........ thoughts?
since the starter is out already I'll need to address these concerns regardless of the electrical (which I may well be avoiding
Last edited by Little Lucy 27; 01-06-2018 at 12:33 AM.
I had this same issue a couple months ago. Replaced everything under the hood; battery, starter, battery cables, fuses, starter relay. Turns out that my runner had an aftermarket alarm system and when I put a new battery in it sent the truck into security mode. Went in and unspliced the alarm from the ignition switch and started right up. Haven’t had an issue since. If nothing under the hood is solving it, check this out and see if it helps.
This is what we have been trying to discourage members from doing.
So relaying my experience and trying to discourage what I did is a bad thing somehow? Got mine as a project and it needed updating anyways so I justified my replacements. Just trying to help someone else out.
Exactly what I'm trying to say. We want to discourage fellow members from replacing things before verifying that they are bad first. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-06-2018 at 07:54 PM.
Little_Lucy,
Don't you have a local store that could test the starter?
The contacts do not look bad, although it's hard to tell exactly from the pictures. Do they look worn? How about the round copper ring?
My suggestion:
1) Try sanding them down to shiny metal, and reassemble.
2) Then test it off the engine. If you don't have a shop/store that could test the starter, try it yourself very carefully:
If you'd like to do it, let us know so I can walk you through.
If you want to learn how to use the multi-meter, also post a clear picture of it here.
"Replaced the positive wire, but there is/was no fuse"
A: the wire was the fuse
"Shiny parts of the starter gear, are these bad"
A: this is the bevel where it auto indexes with the flywheel/flexplate. It's normal looking from here, maybe one or too with some excess wear but as long as they are the same general size (no huge protruding bits) the will index fine.
I'll second RAD, shine up the contacts for the solenoid plunger (the crescent shaped bits, and matching ring on plunger) and take it to Autozone or someone to spin it up on thier test machine. And double up the where did that red/white wire connect to question.
the pair of contacts inside the starter solenoid housing appear to be ok. sand the contact surface to shiny. the plunger contact surface looks worn, however. you might be able to sand it and reuse it. me, i'd replce the plunger and contacts, because they are inexpensive and you have the assembly out of the vehicle. it will never be easier to do than right now.
the starter teeth are fine; those are not the problem.
pics from my own contact replacement, done on three vehicles
edit: guess i'll have to wait on the pics, yotatech page isn't loading properly to allow adding pics.
Like CO and Wally say ^^^
Then, there should be continuity from the thick wire encircled in red to shiny, bare metal of starter body, most especially the mounting holes.
How do you check for continuity? Start by beaming me up; show me what your multi-meter looks like.
12-31-2017, 08:32 PM
) about the battery/starter/engine.
