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ahhh, when the lights go off, thats actually the power supply wire from the battery to the starter. ive never understood why everything turns off, but thats what seems to happen. it may be some built in protector in the battery, but i get that exact problem when the terminals get dirty, but my solenoid (big one on the starter) never made much of an attempt at even clicking when it happened to me. then all lights and gauges drop out until u turn the key off and try again.
If your starter solenoid clicks energetically but your starter motor still does not turn, it could mean:
1) Either thick positive wire from the battery to starter solenoid screw terminal and/or thick battery negative wire to engine block is/are not connected well, OR
2) Starter solenoid contacts are bad (need to replace contacts), OR
3) A connection is broken inside the starter motor-solenoid assembly (need to replace or rebuilt the assembly), OR
4) Battery is weak; Just enough to provide about 12 Amperes to energize the solenoid, but not the hundreds of cranking amperes needed to turn the motor.
You said that you installed a new battery. That does not always mean it is a fully-charged battery. IF it were discharged and you try to jump start it by connecting to another vehicle's battery, you need to keep it connected to the jumping vehicle for a few minutes then try cranking. Did you do that?
If your starter solenoid clicks energetically but your starter motor still does not turn, it could mean:
1) Either thick positive wire from the battery to starter solenoid screw terminal and/or thick battery negative wire to engine block is/are not connected well, OR
2) Starter solenoid contacts are bad (need to replace contacts), OR
3) A connection is broken inside the starter motor-solenoid assembly (need to replace or rebuilt the assembly), OR
4) Battery is weak; Just enough to provide about 12 Amperes to energize the solenoid, but not the hundreds of cranking amperes needed to turn the motor.
You said that you installed a new battery. That does not always mean it is a fully-charged battery. IF it were discharged and you try to jump start it by connecting to another vehicle's battery, you need to keep it connected to the jumping vehicle for a few minutes then try cranking. Did you do that?
I initially left a known working battery charger on it for 20 minutes until it indicated fully charged
still the same.....solenoid clicks, no starter. I bump started it and drove it for errands. Turned it off .. ..no start
at one point I held the key on and blew the 30 amp fuse. ........ If it is the starter, the coincidence factor would be. ......idk......a COINCIDENCE? lol
Thanks for the info. ......I'll continue with the above mentioned recommendations as time permits. It's, of course, very bad timing for this issue. ..
...I bump started it and drove it for errands. ...
When you bump started, that means it started (had combustion) even without the starter working.
If you blew 30-amp fuse by putting in start position, the solenoid clicked ENERGETICALLY and stayed, right?). That means solenoid energized and holding it on for a long time overloaded the circuit. Then power did not get to your starter motor. Bad solenoid contacts or connections.
Please note:
1KW starter has been discontinued. I got a 1.4KW for mine. Rebuilt OEM PN 28100-35060-84 from Toyota Parts Zone (now Toyota Parts Deal)
IF you have to buy replacement starter that is rebuilt and/or under Toyota warranty, store would only honor OEM starter for core refund.
Hi all!🤗
whew! In December my truck stopped running at which time I was moving, the mother of the bride at my daughter's wedding, celebrated Christmas which btw happened to be a white one. Yup, it snowed on Christmas. Otherwise it's been either torrential rain , snow or in the teens/ twenties °f with daylight present from 7:30 to 4:30. In other words, the timing sucked lol
Yesterday I got to working, diligently, on my truck FINALLY. I didn't get a pic (I will tomorrow in the daylight) but there IS A starter relay on the fender as well as the solenoid on the starter. (That detail was in question) I can hear the solenoid click but not the relay. I put the makeshift wire on the solenoid and the positive terminal which made the solenoid click (same as it did in original configuration) but no starter activity. I cleaned and sanded the contacts on all grounds as well as the large red power cord that goes from the battery to the starter. Crossed my fingers........ no luck. Then I zeroed in on the thick white wire that goes from the positive on the battery to the fuse box next to the battery. Here l found P.O. shenanigans..........
Shoddy wire hack. Half the gauge (blue) crimped onto power wire (white) that goes from battery positive to fuse box next to battery. Also there are no fuses in this segment of the fuse box but there are THREE wires or sets of wires connected (screwed on with ring terminals) here
All three ring terminals were connected to the upper left hole. No fuse present?
I've had issues with the fuse box, in the past , rendering the radio, horn and flashers inoperable. The run lights have always been on as long as the key is on...... I knew it was wired incorrectly but it worked a
The blue to white power wire was covered which is why I didn't notice it initially. See it on the positive terminal? That's the one in the pic above
nd electric ain't my thing so........ if it ain't broke......etc...... well now l guess it's broke.......drat!
Anyway,....... I'm going to make a new power wire to replace the blue and white hack job and see if that fixes the starting issue.........
Thanks so much for all of your input, I have used as much of the provided info as I'm able, to date. Stay tuned.......
more pics tomorrow.
well hang on, you said the solenoid clicked but the relay doesnt. all we want to happen is for the solenoid to click, and that should get the starter turning. forget the relay then, its probably not connnected. if it was, the solenoid wouldnt click without the relay clicking haha.
if ur solenoid is clicking, then its being energized.
however one of the following will be stopping anything further:
a, its not being energized enough to close the contacts propperly or
b, when the contacts close, theres a restriction in the high current from the battery to the solenoid or solenoid to starter, or engine to earth.
if its a, then the restriction could be anywhere from the battery to the switch to the relay to the solenoid. personally, ive had this particular issue a twice.
first time was between the key and the solenoid
second time was between battery and key, which happened to be on the starter, connection, where the power goes from battery to the main bus panel.
Last edited by Thommo Thompson; 12-28-2017 at 11:46 PM.
ok so ur restrixtion in my A scenario is probably that stupid hack job. am i right intaking it that that blue and white wire is the main power supply to the fuse box from the battery/starter positive terminal?
[QUOTE=Thommo Thompson;52385981]ok so ur restrixtion in my A scenario is probably that stupid hack job. am i right intaking it that that blue and white wire is the main power supply to the fuse box from the battery/starter positive terminal?[/QUOTE
....I can hear the solenoid click but not the relay...
Now how could that be? What did you do that made things change? Is this when you try to start normally?
I put the makeshift wire on the solenoid and the positive terminal which made the solenoid click but no starter activity....
Does the solenoid click energetically? Yes, energetically or weakly matters; a problem well-stated is a problem almost solved.
Yes, like Thommosays above^^^ If the solenoid clicks energetically but starter motor does not turn, power is being interrupted somewhere. If you're absolutely, plus-sitively sure that your connections are good (see my signature), then it must be a defective starter motor or solenoid contact. More often than not, it's the starter solenoid contacts. If you want to rebuild, search the forum for that. OR see my post about 1.4WK starter above.
However, before you spend money on a starter (see my signature), your battery post and terminal do not look good enough. Where the terminal contacts the post you'd want bare, shiny metal. Do you have that?
the thick white wire that goes from the positive on the battery to the fuse box next to the battery. Here l found P.O. shenanigans...Also there are no fuses in this segment of the fuse box but there are THREE wires or sets of wires connected (screwed on with ring terminals)
That wire is called the fusible link wire. If that wire is bad and you try to start normally your solenoid will not click energetically.
It acts like a fuse so it will melt if overloaded but is more forgiving; a fuse downstream of it will blow before the FL blows. I am not sure if it is really a hack job. I have never opened one up. Perhaps there should only be of piece of wire and the whole segment of wire is the fusible link it self. Do not break that wire, yet. Let's ask other members if they have seen what that FL wire should look inside. To properly replace that wire, you would need to buy the proper size/gage fusible link wire. (I bought mine from Summit Racing, but let's worry about that later.
Before replacing possibly good parts that may not solve your problem, let's troubleshoot/verify first. And let's check your fuse block situation. But before we proceed, let us know if you have a multi-meter and you're willing to use a it. Next only to our senses, the MM is the most important electrical troubleshooting tool for our classics. Let's not hesitate to invest $6 at Harbor Freight for our priceless trucks.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-29-2017 at 08:03 AM.
"I put new terminal on the positive cable and cleaned the connection/posts"
It doesn't matter what the outside of that ground cable end looks like guys, as long as it's clean inside and tight to the post not loose in the lead/wire junction.
I suspect the large end of the fuse was either loose and thus corroded, or was just not clean.
Little Lucy, you want to replace the fusible link patch you did with proper FL wire which has a burn proof sheath or source a fibreglass sheath to go over that 8g wire you put in its place. There are debates about these I won't bother to argue. What I will say is its a fire hazard to have that wire not protected that can result in a small or large fire, and worst case the battery may explode.
PS it's hard to hear the relay click of the solenoids thunk due to thier proximity.
PPS that FL is still available iirc from the dealership.
u recon that negative lead looks good??
i dont haha. i wouldnt be surprised if the inside where the wire is, is full of corrosion and may even be the entire problem. (it all started after replacing the battery)
but it coukd also have been that dodgy join, when lucy moved it to replace the battery, it may have lost the one strand of copper it needed to flow enough current to jump the starter switch, the fuses, relays, and solenoid coil.
Last edited by Thommo Thompson; 12-29-2017 at 05:32 PM.
u recon that negative lead looks good??
i dont haha. i wouldnt be surprised if the inside where the wire is, is full of corrosion and may even be the entire problem. (it all started after replacing the battery)
but it coukd also have been that dodgy join, when lucy moved it to replace the battery, it may have lost the one strand of copper it needed to flow enough current to jump the starter switch, the fuses, relays, and solenoid coil.
I agree about the neg terminal. .....I went to NAPA and they don't have anything like the original terminals which is why I left the neg alone........
I did clean contacts (neg ground and terminals) to shiny
Last edited by Little Lucy 27; 12-29-2017 at 10:19 PM.
Newer vehicles use a harder metal for battery connections. Along the lines of plated copper. The older style are a lead alloy. With the lead/soft metals you need to be careful that your not wiping "clean" metal over the dirt/corrosion. The best way to avoid this is to use your half round file (single direction stroke), a terminal brush will do in a pinch but it can "smear" the soft metal over corrosion such that it looks good but is a contaminated joint (think along the line of using foil to conduct electricity, OK for low current and low voltage but not good for 1 amp and in this case multiples of tens).
Lucy, once you get your multimeter issues sorted out you can test the voltage drop across that negative battery lead. (Measure voltage between the negative battery post and each of the bolts/nuts at the ends of those lines where it attaches to the inner fender and the lower intake stay/support.) Do this with the headlights, window wiper, turn signal, and heater/blower fans on to load the circuit with current. This result will rule out corrosion of the cable to "lug" junction and tell you if your grounds are good and clean. It should read somewhere in the millivolts scale, generally speaking.
Thomm well if the outside being dirty meaning it needs replaced she needs a whole new body and mayne engine, cause that engine bay is not all shining and such. Point being its very hard to say what path an electron is going to choose with the human eye, best to get out the multi-meter and see what is really going on.
PS. Slather some dielectric grease on those battery lugs, a clear coat, or some hair spray (Terry uses hair spray iirc). It will keep them bright and shiny and prevent oxidation and moisture issues.
..It doesn't matter what the outside of that ground cable end looks like guys, as long as it's clean inside and tight to the post not loose in the lead/wire junction....
Yes, around battery post and inside surface of battery terminal cleaned to bare, shiny metal with this...
... PS it's hard to hear the relay click of the solenoids thunk due to their proximity....
A problem well-stated is a problem almost solved. If we are to effectively help, Little_Lucy has to "put us in front of that engine compartment" by clearly telling us, was it only the relay or only the solenoid that clicked. Or both clicked? Or if solenoid clicked energetically.
If she could not tell by hearing, she would have to feel them.
Yes, Lucy, you gotta get a multi-meter if you want to work on the truck yourself, and take voltage drop measurements like Co_Pu says above.
I used silicone dielectric grease on my battery terminals when I replaced battery and terminals in 2013. Still looking good without corrosion today.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-29-2017 at 10:56 PM.
Yes, around battery post and inside surface of battery terminal cleaned to bare, shiny metal with this...
A problem well-stated is a problem almost solved. If we are to effectively help, Little_Lucy has to "put us in front of that engine compartment" by clearly telling us, was it only the relay or only the solenoid that clicked. Or both clicked? Or if solenoid clicked energetically.
If she could not tell by hearing, she would have to feel them.
Yes, Lucy, you gotta get a multi-meter if you want to work on the truck yourself, and take voltage drop measurements like Co_Pu says above.
I used silicone dielectric grease on my battery terminals when I replaced battery and terminals in 2013. Still looking good without corrosion today.
I own and used the terminal cleaner, although l see how you might think otherwise lol
I'll redo them when it's time to hook them up
I have a analog multimeter..... fat lot of good it does me, lol
no clue, really, how to use it
Electric ain't my thing:/
I'll get the digital one on payday
Meanwhile ...... it was partly sunny this morning until l opened the hood. No, really...... it started raining the minute that l opened my hood....... I did get a manly man to crimp the connector for me way better than mine. Bad neck, arthritic hands....... so frustrating........ working with what l have
it is, however, supposed to be clear tomorrow......I will be back at it then
Thanks again!! you are all, truly, appreciated!!!!!
on a totally different plane........ this happened.................
https://youtu.be/95LnEtYDESI
my life.....I swear
there's a part 2 and 3 if anyone is interested ( the saga continues
I realize that it's not relative, but it's too funny not top share
I own and used the terminal cleaner...
...I have a analog multimeter...
Good! No need for digital if your analog works. Repeat: You have to put us in front of that engine compartment so we can help.
1) Clarify: is it only the relay or only the solenoid that clicked. Or both clicked? Or if solenoid clicked energetically.
2) Make sure you have good battery in that analog multi-meter and post a clear picture of it so I can show you what settings to use.
12-21-2017, 02:45 PM
lol
