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I'm doing a valve cover gasket replace ment.

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Old 01-21-2008, 09:10 AM
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I'm doing a valve cover gasket replace ment.

Hi guys and gals. I'm new at this but bare with me and coach me along if you feel necesarry.

I just got a 95 4runner V6. It's a great little buggy although it could use some more horsies.

Anyway, I am going to replace both valve cover gaskets and was wondering if you got any advice or tips to help me with the process.

Thanks,
Kevin
Old 01-21-2008, 09:16 AM
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assuming they are leaking?

not too familiar the 3.0 but it should just be a matter of removing a few bolts, removing the covers and replacing the gaskets. 10 minutes maybe?
Old 01-21-2008, 10:00 AM
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If i'm not mistaken you can only do one-side "fairly" easily, driverside I believe. The other side requires you to remove the intake plenum. I could be mistaken however. While you are at it and have the valve covers off, you might want to replace the PCV valve aswell. Also when putting it back together don't forget to use some RTV around the edges.....I forgot and now I get to redo this task.

-=Morphine=-
Old 01-21-2008, 12:17 PM
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you will need to take off the upper plenum to access the pass side valve cover.

there is NO way to do it without.

that also means you will have to disconnect the EGR and reed valves. youll need new gasket for the upper plenum.

your looking at a solid half day if youve done it before, if not, block out an entire day , a weekend if you have to run for misc parts (vacume hoses etc)

would be a solid 3 wrench rateing on my scale.

might as well do the plugs and wires, (and while we are at it cap, rotor, upper and lower rad hoses, change oil/filter, new air filter, your at a solid weekend of wrenching now)
Old 01-21-2008, 12:25 PM
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Gaskets are not all required to have RTV added to make them seal. I have seen too many V/C's plastered with that crap. You don't need it. Just take your time and they'll go on fine. If you need a little "sticky" to keep them from moving around while bolting them back together, rub a little fresh oil on one side. tighten the bolts in the right sequence. Do not overtighten.
Old 01-21-2008, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by snap-on
you will need to take off the upper plenum to access the pass side valve cover.

there is NO way to do it without.

that also means you will have to disconnect the EGR and reed valves. youll need new gasket for the upper plenum.

your looking at a solid half day if youve done it before, if not, block out an entire day , a weekend if you have to run for misc parts (vacume hoses etc)

would be a solid 3 wrench rateing on my scale.

might as well do the plugs and wires, (and while we are at it cap, rotor, upper and lower rad hoses, change oil/filter, new air filter, your at a solid weekend of wrenching now)
geez, just to replace a valve cover gasket? i love my 22RE even more now.
Old 01-21-2008, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Yodaforce
Gaskets are not all required to have RTV added to make them seal. I have seen too many V/C's plastered with that crap. You don't need it. Just take your time and they'll go on fine. If you need a little "sticky" to keep them from moving around while bolting them back together, rub a little fresh oil on one side. tighten the bolts in the right sequence. Do not overtighten.
The FSM specifies a small bead of RTV just where the valve cover meets the end cam caps. There is a 90 degree corner there so I guess the rubber gasket has problems sealing those corners completely. That's what I did to mine, so we'll see if it worked or not when I drop the engine back in again after my rebuild.
Old 01-21-2008, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by runethechamp
The FSM specifies a small bead of RTV just where the valve cover meets the end cam caps. There is a 90 degree corner there so I guess the rubber gasket has problems sealing those corners completely. That's what I did to mine, so we'll see if it worked or not when I drop the engine back in again after my rebuild.
This is correct. When I did mine I was following a Haynes manual and it did not mention this. Sure enough, this spot that he FSM points out is where I have a leak.

-=Morphine=-
Old 01-21-2008, 06:20 PM
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heck now that you got the oil out filter off intake off valve covers off reset the valve lash and change the fuel filter to right? since you got everything off already
Old 01-22-2008, 02:10 PM
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Put a new PCV valve and grommet in the passenger side while you have it off.

Get some long nose needlenose pliers for those hidden under the intake coolant lines, fuel lines, and vacuum lines.

Take pictures of the emissions lines. It is easy to put them on in different places, and some of those wrong places can make a difference.

Luckily, this only has to be done once every 15 years or so.
Old 04-11-2012, 11:37 AM
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won't start after valve cover gasket change

Just got done changing the gaskets on my valve covers. Now that everything is back together the truck won't start.
Just a click left of the steering wheel. Radio dies. I'm lost.
Help!
Old 04-11-2012, 02:57 PM
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Engine ground wires reattached? All electrical plugs back in their proper place? Check all the fuses.
Old 04-12-2012, 03:49 AM
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While your there replace the bypass hose and any bad looking heater hose.You wont get to them on the side of the road with th plenium on.
Old 04-12-2012, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by just a 22re
heck now that you got the oil out filter off intake off valve covers off reset the valve lash and change the fuel filter to right? since you got everything off already
The VZ Engines use valves shims, and is a bit more of a job and need to have some know how of how to do it. The FSM is very helpful. Not as simple or as easy as the 22re.

I know this is an old thread, but dont listen to the people who dont have actual experience

Last edited by rattlewagon; 04-12-2012 at 06:35 AM.
Old 04-17-2012, 03:54 PM
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I just did this a couple days ago. It's really not too bad if you take your time and label all your lines. I put a piece of blue painters tape on anything that I unplugged just so I made sure that once I was done I had everything plugged back in.
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