Okay so heres what i got goin on..

I just spent about an hour playing around with my dizzy, trying different teeth etc, even tried switching it 180 degrees(haha, wasnt worth the effort.)

When i hooked my timing light up to my truck and started it, i noticed something was wrong! And yes, i do have the TE1 - E1 jumped, and my check engine light DOES flash

So, when my timing gun is set at 0 degrees, i have to turn the distributor counter clockwise to its most extreme point(stopped by the screw of course), to get the timing mark on the crank pulley(highlighted with white crayon) to the 5 degrees BTDC mark.

This was what caused me to start playing with my dizzy, trying different teeth placements.

To my discovery, my truck will NOT start in any other tooth placement except the one i am on.

my throttle linkage is either wierd, or the spring on the throttle linkage is bad becuase i have to push on it to get it to go back to complete idle.

Anyway, if i DO push my throttle to idle, my timing marks just move farther clockwise, AWAY from 5 degrees BTDC.

Anyway, so if i can get it to 5 degrees BTDC whats the problem right? Well doing so, makes my engine run extremely fast. so somethingswrong... I have just rebuilt it recently, and am still having problems getting it good enough to drive..

 

How does the dimple on the cam gear look at TDC?

 

if i remember correctly, when i put the cam gear on, it was slightly to the left of tdc... which was where the chilton said to put it.. wherever it really is, is where the chilton said and described lol

and how much for the subi

 

I would verify your cam timing is correct. I assume you have no codes?

 

lets assume my cam timing is correct... what could it be if so?

I hve not tried to run codes, since the check engine light doesnt show up unless i have the TE1 and E1 jumped for timing

 

As vehicles get older, it's not uncommon for the crank damper to slip inside it's rubber isolator. Verify top dead center with a chopstick or something (be careful not to break anything off in the cylinder), and once you have verified actual TDC, check to make sure that the crank pulley hasn't slipped.

You'll be able to tell quite easily, because if it's slipped, it won't line up with the 0* mark even if your #1 piston is verified to be at TDC.

 

interesting...ill check all these things tomorrow for sure, then get back to you all.

and if ur talking about the round rubber piece that is inside the timing cover, that surrounds the crank shaft..then that is brand new, as i redid my enginge

 

no the bottom pulley is a dampener and as such is a two piece with rubber in the center. Its common to have the outer piece spin on the rubber throwing off the timing mark. only way to fix it is a new dampener. Hope this helps. Good luck

 

Dead on.

 

learn something new every day!.. im just wakin up so ill get to checkin that out soon


and so... could i asssume, that if this IS the problem, and the rubber is slipping, then my engine WOULD be on the corrrect dizzy tooth, and its just looking like its not(when the strobe is flashing on my timing gun), due to slippage?

 

yes. check and see if your #1 piston is set a TDC then the cam gear dot is top center(#1 cylinder valves will be loose and the cam lobes will be pointing down) at that point the crank pully should be 0deg if not you need too pull it and check and see if the key way on the crank is on top. If it is the dampener has rotated on you. Replace as needed.