IFS Steering Upgrades?
May 10, 2011 | 05:52 PM
#81
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 13,574
Likes: 71
From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
AZ FA5040 IMO is better then the OEM. As well as alot of other's opinions as well. Besides the SDORI Bronze bushings only fit that arm. This is one of those few cases the cheapest aftermarket available is the best choice.
Here is why:
http://www.sdori.com/SDORI_Theory_Of_Operation.html
Here is why:
Why Just One Arm?
Good question! There are two main reasons but before getting into them it is important to point out that 1st and 2nd gen idler arms are interchangable. The second gen arms are typically stronger though. Therefore, if you have a 1st gen truck, it make sense to install a 2nd gen arm for the added strength.
First, the most affordable ilder arm is by sheer luck also the best. Initially we assumed that we would want to at the very least produce idler arm bushings for the high-end Napa arm as well as the OEM arm because we assumed they would be the best. After an idler arm spending spree we found some interesting things we'll discuss below.
As one can see, the most affordable arm has the largest shaft diameter. Another interesting note is that the Napa 1032403 which has a diameter similar to a 2WD OEM arm is also sold for 4WD trucks even though from a strength standpoint, this arm is below spec.
The second reason to support one arm is cost and the desire to keep it down. The part of the shaft closest to the arm itself wears more than the rest. This means that a bushing that fits snuggly over the lower part of the shaft will not fit at all over the rest of the shaft. Assuming one was to verify that the shaft has a uniform diameter, there is the issue of calibration. My calipers might not measure out like yours. As a result it is difficult to machine the parts to order due to the tight tolerances in this application. To reduce part cost it is necessary to produce many at once and supporting one arm helps us accomplish this goal.
We entertained shipping idler arms in house to do custom bushings but the shipping to and from the customer is about equal the price of a pair of bushings. It costs much more to do one-off jobs so we would have to charge at least 2X the price for the bushings. Between the machine time and shipping, one could purchase the Duralast (FA5040) arm new, with warranty, and order a set of bushings for it.
Given these issues we have decided to support the most affordable yet strongest idler arm.
Good question! There are two main reasons but before getting into them it is important to point out that 1st and 2nd gen idler arms are interchangable. The second gen arms are typically stronger though. Therefore, if you have a 1st gen truck, it make sense to install a 2nd gen arm for the added strength.
First, the most affordable ilder arm is by sheer luck also the best. Initially we assumed that we would want to at the very least produce idler arm bushings for the high-end Napa arm as well as the OEM arm because we assumed they would be the best. After an idler arm spending spree we found some interesting things we'll discuss below.
As one can see, the most affordable arm has the largest shaft diameter. Another interesting note is that the Napa 1032403 which has a diameter similar to a 2WD OEM arm is also sold for 4WD trucks even though from a strength standpoint, this arm is below spec.
The second reason to support one arm is cost and the desire to keep it down. The part of the shaft closest to the arm itself wears more than the rest. This means that a bushing that fits snuggly over the lower part of the shaft will not fit at all over the rest of the shaft. Assuming one was to verify that the shaft has a uniform diameter, there is the issue of calibration. My calipers might not measure out like yours. As a result it is difficult to machine the parts to order due to the tight tolerances in this application. To reduce part cost it is necessary to produce many at once and supporting one arm helps us accomplish this goal.
We entertained shipping idler arms in house to do custom bushings but the shipping to and from the customer is about equal the price of a pair of bushings. It costs much more to do one-off jobs so we would have to charge at least 2X the price for the bushings. Between the machine time and shipping, one could purchase the Duralast (FA5040) arm new, with warranty, and order a set of bushings for it.
Given these issues we have decided to support the most affordable yet strongest idler arm.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; May 10, 2011 at 05:54 PM.
May 10, 2011 | 06:21 PM
#82
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Awesome! Thats really good info and more that its the most economic. Goes to show you that buying something expensive doesn't always mean you get something better. Anyway going to the steering rod in particular the part that is supposely the weak link (Picture taken from www.toyotasteeringrecall.com).
This rod in the pilot side is my concern. What is the best fix in adressing this issue?
This rod in the pilot side is my concern. What is the best fix in adressing this issue?
May 16, 2011 | 11:13 AM
#83
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
I've been researching what would be the best fix for the relay rod and pretty much its dropping a grand with the Total Chaos parts or Fabbing up your own steering system out of DOM, heim joints, etc. I am just concerned how to know if my steering is ok (I'll do the crack check but it is 23 years old), I am going on a 2000 mile trip on my truck, just bought it, its an 88 model but VIN states it was produced in 87. Does this mean I am out of the woods due the fact that this year truck wasn't in the recall???
On the do list to help the steering components is:
-SDORI Bronze Bushing-Autozone Idler Arm setup.
-Beefed up pitman arm from Lowrange offroad or similar
-New Balljoints (Any recommendations?)
-Polyurethane Control Arm Bushings
-OME Steering Dampner
Bearings are Ok and I already installed the TC weld on Truss
On the do list to help the steering components is:
-SDORI Bronze Bushing-Autozone Idler Arm setup.
-Beefed up pitman arm from Lowrange offroad or similar
-New Balljoints (Any recommendations?)
-Polyurethane Control Arm Bushings
-OME Steering Dampner
Bearings are Ok and I already installed the TC weld on Truss
Jul 21, 2011 | 08:02 AM
#84
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Jul 21, 2011 | 09:28 AM
#86
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,464
Likes: 6
From: Arvada, Colorado
If you use Heim joints, you should be able to leave the steering in the stock location.
Jan 17, 2013 | 01:27 PM
#87
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Italy
How would all of you up grade your steering? I'm not talking about the steering wheel, column, or box, but everything else (rods, rod ends, arms, idler, bearings, etc?).
Is there an after market kit available for better performance or durability?
Is there a "Hy-steer" kit available for IFS trucks?
Thanks
Is there an after market kit available for better performance or durability?
Is there a "Hy-steer" kit available for IFS trucks?
Thanks
I think that the idler and center link have been very much covered over these pages, but still seems that the other components in the steering system like tie rods and ball joints, arms, bearing etc had quite a few mention here so far.
PLEASE HANG ON BLAMING ME, I did many other searches and found many discussions about comparisons between brands like Napa, Moog, Beck Arnley, Sankei, etc, but the question here is slightly different: Are there options for better performing and stronger parts than OEM?
My understanding is that the above mentioned brands just EQUAL OEM quality at less price, but in fact none is BETTER.
So far it seems that only Total Chaos does something superior. Is that correct?
Thanks, E.
Last edited by Enri.; Jan 17, 2013 at 01:33 PM.
Jan 23, 2013 | 01:18 PM
#88
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Italy
Sorry, no one could answer this?
In Italy we don't make much use of aftermarket parts, because local offer is bad and buying from abroad is inconvenient for different reasons, so our experience is too poor to be able to rank the options, that's why I'm asking here...
Thanks, E.
In Italy we don't make much use of aftermarket parts, because local offer is bad and buying from abroad is inconvenient for different reasons, so our experience is too poor to be able to rank the options, that's why I'm asking here...
Thanks, E.
Last edited by Enri.; Jan 23, 2013 at 01:22 PM. Reason: typing mistake correction
Jan 25, 2013 | 10:11 AM
#91
I could be incorrect about this, but I don't think broken balljoints are a common issue with IFS wheelers. The Toyota ones are quite stout. Tie-rods must be a weak point as folks seek the FJ upgrade sometimes. In my very limited experience, the OEM (Sankei 555) ones are the best.
Jan 27, 2013 | 01:03 PM
#92
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Italy
Thanks RustBucket. To my understanding, balljoints may become weaker when using BJ spacers, as the geometry is changed from what they've been designed for. For the same reason, there might problems also with the tie-rods. Bigger tires would make the steering components' life even harder.
OEM parts might be very good, but they're dimensioned just for the original IFS system specs, and may not be that strong when dealing with lifts and bigger tires. That's why we are seeking for stornger parts. Or -maybe- OEM parts are so good that they can cope also in this situation?
OEM parts might be very good, but they're dimensioned just for the original IFS system specs, and may not be that strong when dealing with lifts and bigger tires. That's why we are seeking for stornger parts. Or -maybe- OEM parts are so good that they can cope also in this situation?
Mar 8, 2013 | 07:13 PM
#93
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,464
Likes: 6
From: Arvada, Colorado
Really, Upgrading the tie rods and idler arm will do what you want. The center link is just a nice bonus.
Cheers!
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