IFS Steering Upgrades?
#61
Registered User
#62
Contributing Member
Why would you hate to tell me? That is great news! I have to look around for the site I saw that stuff was cast on, but it was cautioning against welding anything on the steering unless you were a pro, as it required special heating and cooling (ie, heat up before welding, and ensure a very long, slow cool down time.)
#63
Registered User
Downey used to sell an idler and pitman arm gusset, that's what my truck has. What you described as far as the technique goes, sounds about right for welding cast parts(which I would never mess with unless I had to). I have seen a ton of 2x4 and 4x4 spindles that have been heavily modified and MIG welded. The gusset on my steering knuckle is because of this, and it's MIG welded as well:
#65
Contributing Member
Usually, 500F or so would be fine for pre/post heat. If the part will fit in your oven, you're set.
1/2 hour per inch of thickness to get it all up to temp. Weld it, put it in the oven (same time) then turn the oven off with the door shut.
1/2 hour per inch of thickness to get it all up to temp. Weld it, put it in the oven (same time) then turn the oven off with the door shut.
#66
Contributing Member
Well, I talked to a local guy today about machining a mega center link outta billet steel, which would solve a number of problems. He has a 2 hr min, at 55/hr, but he likes to quote jobs, rather than time, so, it could be a little less. or a little more. Hard to say. I'll get the quote, then see if it makes more sense to run heims on the center link, and make the link itself out of .250 wall DOM. Tie rods will be .250 DOM, just cause I have it, and already in near perfect lengths.
If thats the case, then I plan to run the FJ-80 ends on the Tie rods, and run my idler in double shear.
If thats the case, then I plan to run the FJ-80 ends on the Tie rods, and run my idler in double shear.
Last edited by AxleIke; 01-14-2010 at 07:09 PM.
#67
Contributing Member
Sadly, neither my mother nor Natalie will let me put anything car related in either one of their ovens after I contaminated my old college apartment oven doing the gears and bearings in my front diff. The 90 weight pizza my brother and I cooked was the nastiest thing I've ever tasted in my whole life.
#69
No, Mag chlor is a nasty corrosive that is used to melt the roads out here.
What I've been reading suggests that dirt and slop make their way into the heim itself and degrade the teflon liner that sits between the uniball and the outer casing. This allows the uniball to loosen up inside the liner and have slop.
Now, I have no idea if thats the case or not. It sounds like you are not having any experiences like that, which makes me happy, as heims would make my install SO much easier!
What I've been reading suggests that dirt and slop make their way into the heim itself and degrade the teflon liner that sits between the uniball and the outer casing. This allows the uniball to loosen up inside the liner and have slop.
Now, I have no idea if thats the case or not. It sounds like you are not having any experiences like that, which makes me happy, as heims would make my install SO much easier!
Last edited by Matt16; 01-15-2010 at 11:03 AM.
#72
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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Independant front suspension.. SAS means solid axle swap or straight axle swap.. SFA means straight front axle..and a BJ followed by the word spacers usually mean ball joint spacers
Last edited by StangBanger; 01-31-2010 at 07:35 PM.
#73
Registered User
Oh and while I am thinking about it, no one makes beefed up halfshafts/cv's for these things right? I'm gonna need to do those too when I redo the steering.
#74
Contributing Member
They do, but they cost upwards of a grand to get an entire unit. If you want inner joints, like porche CV style, they'll run anywhere from 100 ish (thats a guess, but basically whatever you could find at a junk yard) to around 500 for chromoly
#77
Registered User
#78
Would Installing Moog Chasis parts be considered an upgrade compared to Japanese OEM Brand, I am thinking of changing these parts:
-Outter and Inner Tierods
-Idler Arm
-Pitman Arm
I called Northwest Offroad and they quoted me the mentioned compenents with the offroad brace for the idler arm just above $400 Bucks. I've read good things about Moog and the whole mentioned parts are about $280.
So what you thinks guys Japanese OEM or Moog? Safety and Reliability are my main concern.
-Outter and Inner Tierods
-Idler Arm
-Pitman Arm
I called Northwest Offroad and they quoted me the mentioned compenents with the offroad brace for the idler arm just above $400 Bucks. I've read good things about Moog and the whole mentioned parts are about $280.
So what you thinks guys Japanese OEM or Moog? Safety and Reliability are my main concern.
#79
Registered User
No on the moog idler arm. NWOR sells a Moog idler? I don't think so. The NWOR idler arm brace fits the moog arm? I don't think so.
FA5040 Autozone Idler arm FTW. There is a reason why SDORI only supports that arm with their bronze bushings. FYI FA5040 will not show as an application for your 88. Just ask for the part number.
God things about the Moog? Not from here I don't think. And not from anyone running anything bigger then a 31 inch tire.
FA5040 Autozone Idler arm FTW. There is a reason why SDORI only supports that arm with their bronze bushings. FYI FA5040 will not show as an application for your 88. Just ask for the part number.
God things about the Moog? Not from here I don't think. And not from anyone running anything bigger then a 31 inch tire.
#80
NWOR Sells Japanese OEM replacement parts and I did a price comparision Against NWOR and Moog. NWOR parts are more expensive but apparently they are better quality compared to Moog. I am trying to find out what would be the most reliable IFS steering setup due to the fact of the steering Rod recall. Apparently Toyota fixed the relay rod in making it stronger on the OEM replacement rod.