I have a 22re with about 14K on it now and it just started doing this:
I start it up and it used to idle about 1000 rpms
Now it goes to 1000 and slowly creeps up to 14 or even 16K and then the idle starts surging without touching the brakes or anything just by itself
I can go drive it around for 5 minutes and the idle drops to about 650 rpms and stays there but if I cut it off and right back on it goes straight to 14K and starts surging until I drive it around for a few minutes
Any ideas?
Other than that the motor is very strong and runs well

89' pickup 4 inch rough country suspension 31x10.50 dick cepek fc2s 15x8 ion alloy 174 series wheels+ glenns over the rail dogbox,mega 4 tracking unit,cb and private band radio, 2 6x9 speakers and over 15 deer a year put on the back!

 

Anyone know anything about this?

89' pickup 4 inch rough country suspension 31x10.50 dick cepek fc2s 15x8 ion alloy 174 series wheels+ glenns over the rail dogbox,mega 4 tracking unit,cb and private band radio, 2 6x9 speakers and over 15 deer a year put on the back!

 

Check engine light on? Sounds like the problem is during open loop operation

 

Yes it is when it starts doing it it comes on

89' pickup 4 inch rough country suspension 31x10.50 dick cepek fc2s 15x8 ion alloy 174 series wheels+ glenns over the rail dogbox,mega 4 tracking unit,cb and private band radio, 2 6x9 speakers and over 15 deer a year put on the back!

 

Because you haven't listed any codes then I assume you haven't checked them. Give it a shot, it's pretty easy.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/

 

Code 21?

89' pickup 4 inch rough country suspension 31x10.50 dick cepek fc2s 15x8 ion alloy 174 series wheels+ glenns over the rail dogbox,mega 4 tracking unit,cb and private band radio, 2 6x9 speakers and over 15 deer a year put on the back!

 

It was 2 flashes then a pause then 1

89' pickup 4 inch rough country suspension 31x10.50 dick cepek fc2s 15x8 ion alloy 174 series wheels+ glenns over the rail dogbox,mega 4 tracking unit,cb and private band radio, 2 6x9 speakers and over 15 deer a year put on the back!

 

Read that whole page. It will tell you what code 21 is. Then do a search on the forum to see how others fixed it.

 

Could that be causing it? I don't see how a o2 sensor could mess up the idle

89' pickup 4 inch rough country suspension 31x10.50 dick cepek fc2s 15x8 ion alloy 174 series wheels+ glenns over the rail dogbox,mega 4 tracking unit,cb and private band radio, 2 6x9 speakers and over 15 deer a year put on the back!

 

It sure sounds like an O2 sensor to me. Much more importantly, your truck is TELLING you it is the o2 sensor.

But you don't need to argue about it; they are easy to test: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...01heatedox.pdf

 

So the o2 sensor will make the truck idle high and surge?

89' pickup 4 inch rough country suspension 31x10.50 dick cepek fc2s 15x8 ion alloy 174 series wheels+ glenns over the rail dogbox,mega 4 tracking unit,cb and private band radio, 2 6x9 speakers and over 15 deer a year put on the back!

 

It's at the very least a start to fixing your problem. Replace what your truck is telling you to replace and if your problem goes away, walla. If not, continue the hunt. You could have one, or multiple things leading to your truck not running correctly.

 

I can tell you after working on cars for 35 years, O2 sensor codes are the worst. It's usually something other than an O2 sensor setting a lean or rich code. Unless it's failed completely, look for other causes. The Toyota V6 trucks did have a problem with O2 sensors failing because of lots of short trips, they need to get hot to stay clean.

 

If your o2 sensor heater is kaput, it will not reach closed loop at idle, so yes, it can cause those problems. It's trivial to check; why WOULDN'T you try to resolve the code? There's no guarantee that it will solve your stated problem, but it's pretty certain that leaving it alone will assure you'll have other problems.

code 21 does double duty; usually it's just a fault in the heater circuit, but it can also be thrown with low voltage from the sensor in certain conditions. This isn't a "lean or rich" code referred to by bswarm (those are 25 and 26). But you'll never know what it is just by guessing.

 

OK, didn't look up the code. My bad. I can't tell you how many vehicles I've had to diagnose with a lean or rich code, it was always something other than the O2 sensor. Just didn't want you throwing money into an O2 sensor and having the same problem. OBDII was nice, you could hook up a scanner and watch the O2 switching. The way to check them without OBDII is hook up a multimeter to the O2, and watch for the switching voltage, give it a small vacuum leak and watch the O2 compensate. I have scanners, sensor testers, etc. in my toolbox to make it easy.

 

IF the o2 sensor is working, it's working, and of course you wouldn't need to replace it. The purpose of the sensor is to track lean/rich, and if you get a lean/rich code (25/26) with a working o2 sensor, it IS someplace other than the sensor itself. (If your working multimeter says you have 3volts on your battery, do you replace the multimeter or charge the battery?)

But in every case, the first thing to do is quickly check that your o2 sensor (or your multimeter) is giving you correct answers. You might quickly check the multimeter on a known-good voltage source, for instance.

Jake's o2 sensor is saying, in so many words, that it is NOT working. (It's like getting the "LOW BAT" indicator on your multimeter.) It could be a bad sensor, it could be a loose connection, it could be a broken wire. "Now" is not yet the time to run down to the auto supply store to throw money at the vendor; a little more inquiry is called for.

On our trucks, checking the o2 sensor is easier than it is on any OBDII system. While you can measure the o2 sensor with a multimeter, you're looking for a quickly changing small voltage, which is hard to do. The right (easy) way to do it is check the conditioned feedback voltage (0-5v) on VF1. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...01heatedox.pdf

30 years of working on cars can do you lots of good, but it doesn't help at all if you don't RTFM.

 

There's probably 50 ways to check an O2 sensor. I have an O2 tester that reads out the switching, and you can force rich/lean commands to the ECM. What I was trying to get across is don't throw parts at it, learn how stuff works. That's the difference between a parts changer and a technician. I just read a 4 page post about an idle problem, they were modifying the AFM and all sorts of stuff. The photo they posted showed the trim adjust was still factory sealed. A 5 minute fix to remove the aluminum plug and adjust the trim would've fixed it.

 

Buying the o2 sensor today will let y'all know If it fixes it

89' pickup 4 inch rough country suspension 31x10.50 dick cepek fc2s 15x8 ion alloy 174 series wheels+ glenns over the rail dogbox,mega 4 tracking unit,cb and private band radio, 2 6x9 speakers and over 15 deer a year put on the back!