I'm doing a valve cover gasket replace ment.
#1
I'm doing a valve cover gasket replace ment.
Hi guys and gals. I'm new at this but bare with me and coach me along if you feel necesarry.
I just got a 95 4runner V6. It's a great little buggy although it could use some more horsies.
Anyway, I am going to replace both valve cover gaskets and was wondering if you got any advice or tips to help me with the process.
Thanks,
Kevin
I just got a 95 4runner V6. It's a great little buggy although it could use some more horsies.
Anyway, I am going to replace both valve cover gaskets and was wondering if you got any advice or tips to help me with the process.
Thanks,
Kevin
#3
If i'm not mistaken you can only do one-side "fairly" easily, driverside I believe. The other side requires you to remove the intake plenum. I could be mistaken however. While you are at it and have the valve covers off, you might want to replace the PCV valve aswell. Also when putting it back together don't forget to use some RTV around the edges.....I forgot and now I get to redo this task.
-=Morphine=-
-=Morphine=-
#4
you will need to take off the upper plenum to access the pass side valve cover.
there is NO way to do it without.
that also means you will have to disconnect the EGR and reed valves. youll need new gasket for the upper plenum.
your looking at a solid half day if youve done it before, if not, block out an entire day , a weekend if you have to run for misc parts (vacume hoses etc)
would be a solid 3 wrench rateing on my scale.
might as well do the plugs and wires, (and while we are at it cap, rotor, upper and lower rad hoses, change oil/filter, new air filter, your at a solid weekend of wrenching now)
there is NO way to do it without.
that also means you will have to disconnect the EGR and reed valves. youll need new gasket for the upper plenum.
your looking at a solid half day if youve done it before, if not, block out an entire day , a weekend if you have to run for misc parts (vacume hoses etc)
would be a solid 3 wrench rateing on my scale.
might as well do the plugs and wires, (and while we are at it cap, rotor, upper and lower rad hoses, change oil/filter, new air filter, your at a solid weekend of wrenching now)
#5
Gaskets are not all required to have RTV added to make them seal. I have seen too many V/C's plastered with that crap. You don't need it. Just take your time and they'll go on fine. If you need a little "sticky" to keep them from moving around while bolting them back together, rub a little fresh oil on one side. tighten the bolts in the right sequence. Do not overtighten.
#6
you will need to take off the upper plenum to access the pass side valve cover.
there is NO way to do it without.
that also means you will have to disconnect the EGR and reed valves. youll need new gasket for the upper plenum.
your looking at a solid half day if youve done it before, if not, block out an entire day , a weekend if you have to run for misc parts (vacume hoses etc)
would be a solid 3 wrench rateing on my scale.
might as well do the plugs and wires, (and while we are at it cap, rotor, upper and lower rad hoses, change oil/filter, new air filter, your at a solid weekend of wrenching now)
there is NO way to do it without.
that also means you will have to disconnect the EGR and reed valves. youll need new gasket for the upper plenum.
your looking at a solid half day if youve done it before, if not, block out an entire day , a weekend if you have to run for misc parts (vacume hoses etc)
would be a solid 3 wrench rateing on my scale.
might as well do the plugs and wires, (and while we are at it cap, rotor, upper and lower rad hoses, change oil/filter, new air filter, your at a solid weekend of wrenching now)
#7
Gaskets are not all required to have RTV added to make them seal. I have seen too many V/C's plastered with that crap. You don't need it. Just take your time and they'll go on fine. If you need a little "sticky" to keep them from moving around while bolting them back together, rub a little fresh oil on one side. tighten the bolts in the right sequence. Do not overtighten.
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#8
The FSM specifies a small bead of RTV just where the valve cover meets the end cam caps. There is a 90 degree corner there so I guess the rubber gasket has problems sealing those corners completely. That's what I did to mine, so we'll see if it worked or not when I drop the engine back in again after my rebuild.
-=Morphine=-
#9
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,801
Likes: 2
From: milwaukee, WI baby muddin in the streets!!
heck now that you got the oil out filter off intake off valve covers off reset the valve lash and change the fuel filter to right? since you got everything off already
#10
Put a new PCV valve and grommet in the passenger side while you have it off.
Get some long nose needlenose pliers for those hidden under the intake coolant lines, fuel lines, and vacuum lines.
Take pictures of the emissions lines. It is easy to put them on in different places, and some of those wrong places can make a difference.
Luckily, this only has to be done once every 15 years or so.
Get some long nose needlenose pliers for those hidden under the intake coolant lines, fuel lines, and vacuum lines.
Take pictures of the emissions lines. It is easy to put them on in different places, and some of those wrong places can make a difference.
Luckily, this only has to be done once every 15 years or so.
#11
won't start after valve cover gasket change
Just got done changing the gaskets on my valve covers. Now that everything is back together the truck won't start.
Just a click left of the steering wheel. Radio dies. I'm lost.
Help!
Just a click left of the steering wheel. Radio dies. I'm lost.
Help!
#14
I know this is an old thread, but dont listen to the people who dont have actual experience
Last edited by rattlewagon; Apr 12, 2012 at 06:35 AM.
#15
I just did this a couple days ago. It's really not too bad if you take your time and label all your lines. I put a piece of blue painters tape on anything that I unplugged just so I made sure that once I was done I had everything plugged back in.
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