How far can the 3.0 go?
#241
I have a 95 with 230,000 Miles on it and it seems to be running fine except for the minor over heating lately..When I bought it almost two years ago, the kid said he put a motor from the junk yard in it, maybe true maybe not. by the way, I am new here and would like to start a new thread. can anyone tell me how I would go about doing that? Thank you.
#242
I have a 95 with 230,000 Miles on it and it seems to be running fine except for the minor over heating lately..When I bought it almost two years ago, the kid said he put a motor from the junk yard in it, maybe true maybe not. by the way, I am new here and would like to start a new thread. can anyone tell me how I would go about doing that? Thank you.
#244
my 3.0 has 230xxx miles and it still runs strong. has the HG replaced back when it has 110xxx miles. i swear this thing has gone through a lot, and it still does not want to die, and next june, it will be having to deal with the Baja 500! 
As far as for Whiter than, are you using the toyota red coolant? if you are then you should probably check your thermostat. if you arent running the toyota coolant, then change it, and if it still overheats, make sure that all your coolant passages are clear because the green stuff tends to clog our engines. and if they are clean and clear, then its probably again, your thermostat. hope that helps.

As far as for Whiter than, are you using the toyota red coolant? if you are then you should probably check your thermostat. if you arent running the toyota coolant, then change it, and if it still overheats, make sure that all your coolant passages are clear because the green stuff tends to clog our engines. and if they are clean and clear, then its probably again, your thermostat. hope that helps.
#245
Bought my 94 PU three years ago. It had about 140K on a 3VZE, but still with original radiator. Lot's of hardened crap inside and overheated. I replaced radiator, along with thermostat. No problems with overheating since.
#246
Thank you for the help guys. I have always used this site to look things up but now I can actually say whats going on with me. The first thing I did was notice a leak from the top rad hose where the metal housing is because the rtv must have worn. So I redid that job and then the getting warm started happening. next I changed my T stat. I drove it to and from work and when I got home I checked and saw water pouring from around the pump. fallowed it up to a house coming out of the top of the water pump. cut that hose and no more leak. Then I noticed when I would start my truck in the morning a sound of water rushing through the pipes. still running warm about 3 quarters of the way up the gauge I took it to jiffy to have a rad flush. then that night changed the clutch fan in which my old one was just fine. aisin. So, today I took it to pep boys. they said I would pay 40 bucks to have it checked out and find the issue. 4 hours later I got a call saying I should start with my T stat. The tech said it had not been touched. I said thats funny, I changed it myself 2 weeks ago. The tech and I stood there looking at it and he could not tell me where it was causing a problem because it was not running warm or over heating on him. My job is 45 min away and it starts to over heat about 35 min after. when I turn the heat on it does go down. it started over heating while in idle but now does while im driving down the high way at 65 mph. I am not using the Toyota red coolant. I just had heard about it on this sight yesterday and am curious to find it at my dealership. I hope I provided enough info. tomorrow I am taking out the T stat and boiling it just to see. ... also, I asked the guy at pep boys about the noise in my water lines and if he could take the air out and he said the car would have to be over heating to do so.. im not sure this is correct but I am not ASE certified.
#247
The top Rad hose and bottom hose are squishy when cold and both hot and cannot be squeezed at running temp. I did see something floating in my Radiator a little while back. Thats really want I wanted to find out from pep boys is if my radiator was clogged maybe and he said he could only do a pressure test but that would not mean its the radiator if it failed. I am thinking about taking the hoses off and pouring water in it and seeing how fast it drains out the bottom. I am not sure if that is the right thing to do.
also the tech at pep boys was confused on which way the water ran. he said it came from the top hose into the radiator and out the bottom, but I said it made more sense if it came from the bottom passing the T stat, up the radiator and out the top hose.. and he had to ask other techs and even they where not sure.. one said it was maybe a reverse run. So I am ready to answer any questions or try something I dont know. lol thank you guys.
also the tech at pep boys was confused on which way the water ran. he said it came from the top hose into the radiator and out the bottom, but I said it made more sense if it came from the bottom passing the T stat, up the radiator and out the top hose.. and he had to ask other techs and even they where not sure.. one said it was maybe a reverse run. So I am ready to answer any questions or try something I dont know. lol thank you guys.
#248
Contributing Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 36
From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
The flow of water through the radiator is not a good indicator; it will pretty much flow the same if the radiator is clogged or not, but HEAT TRANSFER is the issue. If you have overheating at speed but not a lower RPMs or around town, that is indicative of a clogged radiator (rust or head gasket sealer).
by the way, can you say RUN ON SENTENCE?? ;-)
by the way, can you say RUN ON SENTENCE?? ;-)
#251
just bought a 92 runner with 345000km's on it, since I've had it I have done the head gaskets and front main seal, the timing belt and water pump had been done not long before I got it, comp is still good, could still see cross hatching on the bores when I had the heads off, temps run good, still has a small oil leak which im still trying to locate
#252
i got 295,000 on mine and then it blew up.. i replaced motor and rear end and clutch and pretty much everything new, then i get leaks from my front differential and transfercase. im stumped from where there leaking from if anyone has any idea of any common leak spots for those let me know. any help would be appreciated.
#253
i have two 94 runners. one a little beat with 270k and one clean with 210k. 270k had top end rebuilt at about 200 and still runs well aside from plugged cat. still drove her to mexico with 4 people and all but the kitchen sink without an issue. 4 hrs on dirt that heavy, plus the few hours highway time. have driven her from san diego to colorado and back twice in the last year as well. tired, but still going. the 210k truck had head gasket done by toyota at 130k . i just bought it two months ago and the motor feels like brand new compared to the old one. runs like a champ. 4.56s on 31s an pulls to 75 in 4th no problem. slides right into 5th and cruises all day. love my 3.0s. theyre no rocketships, but i feel like as long as i keep fluids fresh and treat them nicely theyll keep right on going like a yota should.
#258
#260
259k on my 1990 P/U. Bought it with 255k on the clock. Runs great! Gas mileage not too hot (12-13 mpgs) but I'm mostly around town driving. Still not afraid to drive it two hours away though!



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