rgraham13

Well here goes.. replaced the head gasket an it will not fire
. as in no Spark from the coil... i replaced it and the igniter still nothing all the fuses are good ecerything is plugged in.. i am stumped im so close to scraping it its not funny.. what tge f could have happened that fast... please someone help email or text/call me 9102585117 im desperate

jswizz

" Fire" as in it wont crank ? or cranks over but wont start ? Mine did that and was 180 out the dist and the crank were off cuz after adjusting the last ex valves your supposed to roll it back to TDC . Maybe this helps , my 2 cents

brianh699

Is the coil/igniter grounded good, I've seen a lot of trucks rust under the coil causing intermittent or no ground situations.

rgraham13

It turns over but won't run... I've checked everything I know and it's driving me nuts.. it's at tdc already and I haven't seen much rust under where the coil is mounted

brianh699

Not sure what year engine you have, but this is a link to a 1985 Factory Service Manual. On Pages IG-4 to IG-9 (pages 289-294 in the pdf) there is an on vehicle spark test. Hope this helps. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1985/1985FSM.pdf

rgraham13

Thanks it's a 22re

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey bud, .....

OK, .......... FIRST, ...... the most overlooked things, .... DON'T LAUGH, IT HAPPENS TO LOTS OF PEOPLE ON HERE! (They wont tell ya that... But hey, we know better! lol).... Of course, that doesn't mean THESE THINGS will be your problem... But they're 1. FREE TESTS.... and 2. THEY'RE OFTEN overlooked........

1. MAKE CERTAIN that the igntitor wiring loom, the LONG ONE that goes all the way over the head and into the ignitor? PLUGGED IN? (A VERY bright buddy of mine chased his tail for 2 weeks before I took a picture of all the wiring, etc.... and voila, there it was, .... never pulled it up through the plenum-intake tunnel through the center).

2. Always check with Ether(Starter Fluid) JUST A COUPLE TIMES, to see if it will run(Does NOT sound like fuel is your issue... Because you're SURE you have fuel, right?)

3. THEREIN #2 ^^^ ; If you've forgotten to ground your Intake with that rear most/bottom plenum-to-intake ground that slides over the stud/nut goes on top... IIRC, the Ignitor/coil/dizzy will receive a 'cease and desist' message from the ECU, after the first turn or so. I BELIEVE that forgetting that ground will disable your EFI, which cuts 'spark', because, the ECU sees that there is no fuel to ignite.

4. DID YOU REPLACE the Coil/Ignitor after finding no spark? ALWAYS worth checking through the FSM(as mentioned) to be CERTAIN that you've not forgotten a primary nut or bolt and to be sure that it's all hooked up the right way.

5. Mentioned was the "Dizzy being 180degrees off. VERY common for people to get it just right, the dizzy installation... BUT, have the crank on TDC on the opposite stroke, not compression stroke. A rebuilt, like you, and it wound up that his mechanics shop, where we were rebuilding it, had gone in that night while we were gone and helped out by assembling a few more things... He figured it was on TDC Compression, but we'd not gotten that far as to be sure on that, just yet... By installing the dizzy there, he was exactly 180* off with the dizzy.... so it would SEEM to want to sputter, etc...BUT, it would only spark a couple times and then NOTHING... Not sure if this was a safety feature, build into the rig... but we rotated the dizzy 180* and VROOOOOM, fired on the first start. We pulled the fuel rail and grounded it for the time to be sure we had fuel, etc.... Then, when asking him, "What did you do last night?", we realized that he'd installed the Dizzy.... and then it clicked, "ohhhhh, he must have thought we'd had the engine to TDC on Compression"... flipped it, and as I said, started right up. Just be sure when you look in hole #1 that it's all the way up when it's on what you think is TDC-Compression, k?

6. Not sure as to how much effect this would have... BUT, the blockplate on back of the head to firewall ground is OFTEN forgotten when reinstalling a Head after HG repair.

7. EFI Fuse? Not sure if that can disable the IGN components... But I would THINK that it would... As the motor would turn over just fine...BUT, seeing 'NO COMPLETED CIRCUIT', due to the missing fuse/burnt fuse, ..... I THINK it would cut voltage to the ignition components in our 87 22RE's... Just like.... If you have NO SPARK, .... some models are supposed to cut the fuel....IN EFI motors... To prevent flooding or 'UNHAPPY' DETONATION, lol.

SOUNDS to me like you're getting ONE HOT SPARK... Then something is disabling it. I mean, ..... only a couple things could cause that... And I've mentioned the majority of them. Make SURE you're getting fuel TO THE CYLINDERS... You can check the CSI and all that.. BUT, unless you pull the CSI OUT of the Plenum... you will not see if it's 'INJECTING' FUEL... And, the CSI operates off the CSI time switch/governed by coolant temps... The fuel injectors do not. AFM plugged in right, it completes the circuit for the fuel delivery when the vane/flap inside opens AT ALL. When you have a working CORelay, .... and you turn the key to STA, then reach in the AFM, forcing the flap open... YOU SHOULD hear the Fuel Pump Kick on, right? Similar POE(process of elimination) to the Ignition, IF that's the primary problem...... It USUALLY isn't the ignitor, dizzy, coil... especially if it was just running.. .UNLESS the LONG ignitor wire is not plugged in... THEN? NO SPARK AND NO GO GO!

8. So pull a plug and turn it over, with the PLUG IN THE WIRE, looking for hot, WHITE spark.

9. Also, have a wicked paper towel stuck in the plug hole and turn it over again... see if it get's properly soaked with fuel.

But first, check;

1. All connections

2. Ignitor Wire Connector is connected

3. Dizzy connector is connected

4. Intake, Head Block Plate on rear and Main and Chassis Grounds are connected

5. EFI Fuse

6. Fuel pump is kicking on with the COR/AFM

Then start with the 2 things in #6?

z31freakify

one tip on how to put the piston on TDC is a quick and harmless procedure, you just need toilet paper, yes toilet paper, and take the spark plug from cylinder #1, stuff the toilet paper into the spark plug hole make sure its nice and tight, when all this is done grab a socket and ratchet and turn the crank shaft, you will see that piece of paper fly out (the piece of paper will come out fast so watch out) and that's your top dead center much better than trying to align the marks, this never fails.

rgraham13

Thanks guys if you're ever in nc look me up.. but I figured it out it's my timing chain somehow it jumped off so imma fix it best way I can and hit some mudholes

brianh699

While your in there check the chain tensioner if it less than 11mm thick side to side it needs to be replaced per fsm. May be why you jumped off.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Man, ....... STILL?

Your message on my Profile Page was kinda vague... BUT, .... No fuel to rail? OR, injectors not INJECTING fuel? While someone is turning it over, carefully(rag over the CSI) crack the CSI, and see if you have fuel pressure at all.

If not, test at the FP/BP pins in the diagnostic connector......

Easiest to just have someone turn it over and see if you can hear it back there, pumping away.

COR is often a culprit in this. any ''clickity clicking" going on above the ECU area?(when the key is NEARING the actual 'turning over' area... but not quite ... Just to the "STA" area of the switch. If not, maybe the CORelay is toast.

You said with a "HOT WIRE" to it, it's getting fuel....... Hot wire/12V to what??

rgraham13

when you say crack the csi, what do you mean, and by hot wire i mean running a wire from my battery to the fuel pump

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

CSI = Coldstart injector. The easy one to get to on the top of the intake plenum. My book indicates it is a softline(eg rubber) and you can just squeeze it to check for pressure. But It's dark and cold and I'm not going out to check!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey buddy,

I mean to crack the banjo bolt to the CSI loose while its being pumped.... but since u clearly KNOW u have no fuel pump action unless supplying it with 12v.... Move on to whether its firing up when u jump the pump like that...?

U only mentioned th we CSI not working... but then also mentioned the pump kicked on with 12v.....

I listed many things a bit back... And, unless I missed it, I never saw a response....... Respond this time, every time, and post up the solution even if u get it elsewhere, ok man? Best wishes on this, and if we could go through the no-start list in a step by step manner, I'm sure u will get this

rgraham13

ok chef.. thanks.. today i jumped the pump with the diagnostic box the fb+bp and i got nothting still.. im about to take off my COR and see if thats an issue.. sorry bout the delay in replying.. and thanks Co 94 PU ill take in consideration everything you guys said

rgraham13

these two wires i cant find where they go to

rgraham13

this is where they come up at..

rgraham13

view of my engine.. 22re

rgraham13

another view of my engine

rgraham13

heres where the mystery wires come up