I just bought a 1993 Yoda 2.4 2wd dlx. I noticed the metal break line running into the caliper was leaking so u tightened it and bled the breaks. Now the calpier is sticking and I have to open the bleeder valve to get it to release. Can anyone lead me to what's going on.. thank u Jessica

 

It sounds like you got sucker punched. what I would do is lift the front tires off the ground, see if both are dragging with no pressure on the pedal or only one. if it's one, replace the brake hose to that wheel and recheck. if it's both loosen the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the booster and see if the brakes free up. if it does it is an adjustment issue with the pushrod length, if it doesn't it's probably the master cylinder.

 

akwheeler has a good point, if one of the brake hoses is rotten and swollen inside, it won't quickly release the pressure after you've let off of the brakes.

there should be some free play in the brake pedal, before it pushes the rod into the booster, but that's different than the other pushrod adjustment he's talking about, that's between the booster and the mc.

 

Then it could be the piston in the caliper is hanging up dirt or rust in the bore.

If that caliper was not moving because of the open line quite easy for things to rust.

I wonder if that line was left open to keep the caliper from hanging up

 

if it was the caliper it would not release when the bleeder was opened

 

I took the tire off and the caliper looks awful. Rust is everywhere. Looks like it has gotten VERY hot at some point. I am going to replace it all!

 

If the piston ls stuck in the bore opening the bleeder will not help

This is a mechanical failure not hydraulic

If that is indeed the problem !!

Never run into problems like this on cylinders ??

 

how does the other side look? if only one was over-cooked then I would lean towards it being the brake hose. it's always a good idea to do calipers in pairs and if the rotor is warped you might as well replace both rotors as well. check your brake hoses for any cracks and replace them if they are.

 

its probably overkill, but its also my arse on the line.
If one caliper is bad, I replace BOTH (and typically the rotors as well)

I tried doing ONE side only, ONCE.
About 3 weeks later the other side went and I had to do the job "all over again".
Vowed - never again. Now I do both - always.

(and I am very fortunate, that I have the wallet means to do so)

 

hey guys, here is what I have done so far...... took the caliper off after cleaning all the brake fluid off it was pretty much brand new how ever the bracket had never been touched, so , I replaced the caliper, bracket, and pads. And well its still sticking. The brake lines from the master cylinder down look brand new as well. I bought a brake line to go from the bottom line to the caliper. I have not installed it yet. going to do that soon. And as far as the rotor well its brand new too. This leads me to belive this was a known problem and well I am not happy that someone would lie to me. geez I would have took the truck anyway but would have known what all as been done so I could start trying to figure it out instead of finding out on my own! thank you all I have been reading the post and doing what I can when I can!!!!

 

the passenger side is dragging really bad, the driver side is perfect

 

new caliper and hose should do the trick then

 

Hi guys,
I may have a related problem... Wheels pull to the left when braking. My theory is that either:
1) Left caliper is dragging, OR
2) Right caliper is harder to actuate (piston sticking) so the right caliper is not braking as well as the left.

Any idea if calipers can be rebuilt?
What store is your source for your calipers? OEM?

TIA

 

Calipers can be rebuilt like any other hydraulic part.

The bore the piston rides in should be honed if you have pits and scoring your rebuild will not last very long

Hydraulics need to be clean the smallest piece of grit can cause a failure .

That is why a tiny piece on a flare fitting is sometimes enough to allow air to be drawn in.

Now about the only place I trust is Napa or Toyota for parts

Even Napa is offering a cheaper line of parts to compete with the other chain stores .

 

You can rebuild a caliper. I have rebuilt them but eventually they go bad again. I suggest just getting a rebuilt caliper from a part store. After reading the original post, I have had brake boosters to cause caliper to engage with out using the foot pedal. To see if the booster is engaging the brakes, I remove the vacuum line from the brake booster and plug it with a golf "T" or a bolt and see if the brakes still engage or not. That tells me if the booster is bad.

WARNING!!! You will only have 25-50% braking power with the hose removed from the booster and the hose is plugged. Test in a safe road and be aware that you have little braking power.

 

Going to get the right side caliper and hose and replace it all. If this don't fix it then i guess I will be learning everything about a brake system cause I am tearing the brake system out and starting fresh. I don't want to take a chance and my breaks go out. I live in the foot hills of the smokey mountains so failer is not an option!!!

 

If opening the brake bleeder on the right caliper releases the brake and allows the wheel to rotate freely then your issue is absolutely trapped pressure in the tubing/hose or caliper. if the left side is not showing any issues at all then you should try loosening the brake line where it attaches to the right front brake hose instead of opening the bleeder and see if the brake releases. if it is still dragging with nothing connected to the hose then you need a hose or a caliper or both. if both sides are dragging you disconnect the line at the master cylinder and see if the brakes release. if so replace the master cylinder or readjust the pushrods.