i am replaceing the waterpump on my truck , there is a bolt on the middle of the crank shaft size 19 , it turns with the shaft . can not get it off. how do i get the bolt of the middle of the crank shaft??????????

 

impact gun or bump your starter... try searching...

 

where is the damn starter , and what does bump it mean?

 

Bump means to crank the engine without starting it, just to give it a quick turn to break loose the bolt on the crankshaft with the 19MM socket installed/attached along with a long breaker bar wedge against the passenger side frame.

I made a special tool to hold the pulley when loosening the bolt.

 

The other option is to get a chain wrench and wrap it around the pulley - use an old inner tube to keep from chewing up the pulley.

Expect to use a breaker bar.

 

unplug the coil from the distributer in case you turn it over too much so it wont start

 

what direction does the bolt come off?

 

It's a regular thread, anticlock to loosen, when looking at the head

 

thank you all just got it off 1 min ago!!!!!!!

 

remember this, lefty loosey and righty tighty.

 

wait how do i get the disk off now , do i need some kind of key from advance auto parts or something?

 

you need a puller. Go to autozone and rent one of them steering/damper puller or if you are near the Harbor Freight, buy one from them they are cheap. That is what I have and bought one of their deep impact socket.

 

Once you get the harmonic balancer (HB) off, to tighten it, you can make an SST (Special Service Tool) out of a 5"-6" wide x 4-5' long piece of 3/4 plywood. All you are trying to do is build a long enough lever to hold the HB in place while you torque it down to spec. My 5VZFE required 217 foot pounds of torque for this bolt. This SST made it a breeze.

There should be two holes in the front of the HB that are threaded on the end closest to the engine. The holes are a good 3-4" deep.
You'll need some metric bolts or rod long enough to go all the way through the plywood and into the threads in the HB. I used some threaded rod and some nuts and washers I already had around. Sorry, I don't remember what thread they were. Maybe someone else here can jump in here.

Put the HB on the floor. Center one end of the plywood over the HB and mark three places. Two are for the holes for the HB bolts. One is for a big hole in the center to put the 19mm socket through. Drill out the holes you marked. Make the bolt holes as tight as possible. The big hole needs to fit the socket through it, so make it extra size. I think I used a cheap 1 1/4 spade bit. Drill through the plywood until the tip of the bit starts to come through, then flip it over and drill it through. This will prevent "tearout", IE, making the hole ragged on one side.

Make sure that you have the crank in a position that you can put on the HB with the SST attached to the SST.

With the threaded rod it worked best to thread the rod throught the plywood, into the HB, connected to the plywood in a stack like this -

Nut
washer
PLYWOOD
washer
nut

The stack is tightened to keep the plywood from delaminating and falling apart when you are torquing the hell out of it. Use big fender washers, not little wimpy ones. You need to compress the wood for a reasonable area to withstand the high torque. I shattered my first try at this tool. I didn't stack the nuts. I went straight through the plywood with no nuts on the back. Don't try that. You'll ruin the plywood and have to clean up a lot of splinters. ;-)

Here's an attempt at an ASCII drawing of what I am talking about. It looks fine in the editor. It gets munged when I post.

__________________________________________________ _____
| 0 |
| O |
|___0_____________________________________________ _____|

Does this make sense?

I hope this helps.

 

Or you could just feed a length of nylon rope/cord into one of the cyl heads [compression stroke ]through the sparkplug hole to keep the piston/crank from turning while you torque it. Good luck.

 

You are working on a 22re, correct?