So I just bought an 88 4runner, and the guy I bought it from has 3 or 4 inch blocks in the rear, and I'm not really sure what he has in the front, but it is lifted about 4" as well. I don't see anything after-market in the suspension, so I'm assuming he cranked up the torsion bars? Is this bad? Should I keep it like this?

 

Pictures of the front and rear would really help... If it is cranked - turn them back down, and loose the blocks.

 

Cranking the torsion bars limits suspension travel..if you go over a rough set of RR tracks it will shake the teeth out of your mouth...lower them down...lift it right.

 

Yeah thats what I was afraid of. I'm not sure how to lower them, but I'll give it a shot. Do they make cheap IFS lift kits? I think I know the answer to this but I'll give it a shot anyway.

 

if just the t-bars are cranked, then bj spacers would keep the same lift with relaxing the t-bars and getting the better ride back. not NEAR the price of an IFS bracket lift system...

may be something to look into, unless you only running 31's and dont need/want the lift or something; if thats the case, just relax the t-bars and go with it

if you do get the bj-spacers to keep the lift, ditch the blocks in the rear it do it up right with some new leafs, or at least maybe some shackles... something other than blocks; if you actually go wheelin with those blocks, it'll only be a matter of time before your stock leafs turn into the shape of an "S"...

 

if you have a 'bracket' or differential drop type of lift kit, it'll look something like the following picture- notice the orange ovals I drew around the bolts:

 

even if you had 3 inch blocks out back, you're probably not going to see 3" of matching lift of out just a T-bar crank.... I'm going to bet you have ball joint spacers or a bracket lift. If i'm wrong i'd look into either one. you can find used ball joint spacers after someone does a Solid Axle Swap for 50-100 bucks. they are chunks of aluminum so it doesnt matter if you buy them used. you will need longer shocks to go with either type of lift. i will hypocritically say ditch the blocks, (i have 3" blocks on my pile as well). i've wheeled the piss outta it with out any problems having the blocks but it scares me to have them there. i am working on finding a way to keep the springs i have but not have to run blocks.


but instead of dealing with IFS lift, just SAS it and be done

 

I'm just using the truck as a daily driver/commuter, with lots of trips up to Tahoe in the winter. I'll ocassionally wheel it, but nothing hardcore at all. Maybe a few trails here and there.

I want to keep the lift though. The girls think it's sexy I'll check out those BJ spacers, because right now, my front axles are at a weird angle

I'll take some pictures and post them up so everyone can see.

 

well without a diff drop or bracket-lift system, your axles are gunna sit at quite an angel, even with bj-spacers. the only way you'll get the axles to level out a bit is to bring the diff down a little bit to be level with the center of the tires. but since your truck probably has manual hubs, that and the fact that you say you harldy ever wheel, you shouldn't have too much of an issue. the time people usually run into problems with axle angels from lift is with add front ends; they wear the boots out quick. there's always the possibility of binding issues with bj-spacers too, but that can be fixed with some bump-stops...

 

If you happen to have the ball joint spacers, this might be something to think of to help lessen the angles on the CV joints:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/DiffDrop.shtml

 

Pics would be good.

If you have spacers and severely cranked torsion bars, as long as you have manual hubs you are fine. You'll be 4wd so rarely that will take a very long time to wear the CV boots.

To add, if you have a bracket lift and don't wheel hard, don't sweat the blocks in the rear suspension either. They will only become an issue if you start crawling in 4low.

Frank

 

4low crawling may be in my future as I found out today. I went to Hollister for the first time with my friends, and they are pretty much going to force me to play with my truck. They think I can do the mini tank-trap... i'm not so sure about that one

 

Cranked Tbars=Bad

My friend destroyes a pair of 33inch Toyo MT because he cranked the Tbars to get them to fit.

The outside edges where bald, completly. And the insides where fresh after like 3 months.

 

Ok, but did he ever get it aligned?

 

I second the alignment. His tires wore because he didn't align it after cranking, not solely because they were cranked.

So did you ever verify you have a bracket lift? To crank torsion bars for 4" is, well, borderline impossible. You a-arms would be pointed downwards at a very steep angle and you'd have no downtravel left.

Frank

 

I'm not sure about 4", but they have a pretty decent gap... and my upper control arms are definitely angled downwards. A lot!

When I get the truck back from the shop tomorrow, I'll try to remember and take pictures for yall

 

Il bet that the PO added the big lift blocks to lift and "fix" the toyota sag. I bet its lifted 1-2" over stock. You can crank the t-bars that much, but its baaaaaaad

 

dbl. pst.

 

What size are the tires and how far from the tire to fender? We could tell right away if it was lifted that way. At least beyond how far t bars go, I think mine stopped before 3".

 

You can measure the front lift as noted below:
http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=398514

Stock distance from the top of a 15" rim to the arch of the front wheel well is 13.5"-14".