Gen II 4Runner and front calibers
#1
Gen II 4Runner and front calibers
Mmmm, Toyota does some pretty nice engineering, however the front brake calibers is pretty, well, not nice, maybe
.
They use hard lines to attach to the calibers......
I haven't tried removing the calibers yet, but, because of the hardlines, it appears that you have to remove the brake line from the caliber in order to remove the caliber from the rotor in order to replace/turn the rotor.
Correct ?
If so, has anyone swapped in flex lines in place of the hard line so the next time that the rotors need replacement/turning you don't have to crack open the brake hydraulics ?
Thanks,
Fred
.
They use hard lines to attach to the calibers......

I haven't tried removing the calibers yet, but, because of the hardlines, it appears that you have to remove the brake line from the caliber in order to remove the caliber from the rotor in order to replace/turn the rotor.
Correct ?
If so, has anyone swapped in flex lines in place of the hard line so the next time that the rotors need replacement/turning you don't have to crack open the brake hydraulics ?
Thanks,
Fred
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
Likes: 58
From: Marysville, WA
You have one of THESE attached to your Braking system??? 
They are calling caliPers hehe
anyways
Have you tried just removing the U-shaped clip holding the line to the spindle so the line will rotate? Either that, or have someone hold the caliper while you take the rotor off, then just lay it down. A little flex will not hurt the hard line, but be sure not to twist it majorly.
I have never tried a soft line between the existing flexline and the caliper...mostly because all the rubber lines are female, and Im not sure you could find one with the correct size male ends.

They are calling caliPers hehe
anyways
Have you tried just removing the U-shaped clip holding the line to the spindle so the line will rotate? Either that, or have someone hold the caliper while you take the rotor off, then just lay it down. A little flex will not hurt the hard line, but be sure not to twist it majorly.
I have never tried a soft line between the existing flexline and the caliper...mostly because all the rubber lines are female, and Im not sure you could find one with the correct size male ends.
#4
Yup *calipers* ...... 
Was talking to a friend right before this about handguns and my fingers were still on that subject I guess
Anyway, let me ask the question another way..
Those of you that have done your own front brakes, include rotor replacement/turning, did you have to remove the hardlines (thus having to bleed the brake system when they're re-installed) from the calipers in order to remove the calipers to get at the rotors ??
Thanks,
Fred

Was talking to a friend right before this about handguns and my fingers were still on that subject I guess

Anyway, let me ask the question another way..
Those of you that have done your own front brakes, include rotor replacement/turning, did you have to remove the hardlines (thus having to bleed the brake system when they're re-installed) from the calipers in order to remove the calipers to get at the rotors ??
Thanks,
Fred
#5
No need to remove the hard lines. Just unbolt the calipers, take the clip out and slid the caliper out of the way to pull the rotor. I zip-tie the caliper up to the shock tower or something else to keep it out of the way.
#6
i second that.. replaced my brake pads last week and there is no need to remove the hard line, it can flex quite a bit and be fine. just wire tie it to the fender somewhere to hold it up out of the way
#7
i would take the caliper of and apart to clean it out if you have never done this.
you can bleed your brakes but the bleeder valve is at the top and sediment will gather at the bottom of the calipers.
when i did mine got so much crud out i was shocked i feel better knowing that there is no sediment in my lines now.
just make sure not to poke a hole in the dust boots on the pistons best to order a rebuild kit from NAPA i payed 40 bucks for the front and rear seals and dust boots it did take a few hours to do them but it was worth it.
if you want more info on how i did mine i can give you a small write up with pics of the tool i made to remove the pistons ect.
sorry kind of went off topic.
you can bleed your brakes but the bleeder valve is at the top and sediment will gather at the bottom of the calipers.
when i did mine got so much crud out i was shocked i feel better knowing that there is no sediment in my lines now.
just make sure not to poke a hole in the dust boots on the pistons best to order a rebuild kit from NAPA i payed 40 bucks for the front and rear seals and dust boots it did take a few hours to do them but it was worth it.
if you want more info on how i did mine i can give you a small write up with pics of the tool i made to remove the pistons ect.
sorry kind of went off topic.
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#8
2nd the zip ties - works just fine or bungee cords I have done both. I would never think of doing brakes without bleeding - not my knuckles, the lines - ha. I think bleeding brake lines is one of those things that everyone is affraid of until the first time, then they realize how easy it is. With 2 people of course.
Good luck
Good luck
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