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Wondering has anyone tried or heard of anyone disassembling (partially or fully) the front Differential while it's still mounted, in order to remove it? And/Or to rebuild?
(I'm actually trying to reach the oil pump and pan)
But I Need to do my CVs as well.
(I already have the cvs and front drive shaft out.. Difficult, but not "TOO" Difficult..)
Apparently the front differential is 130 lbs?? Probably Possibly A bit over my weight limit to muscle it out or back in.. I don't have a floor jack .. but maybe soon?
It'd be tough without a small floor jack. Two people might get it done. IDK
I've R n R'd more than a half dozen using a small floor jack and a few small pieces of 2x4.
The first couple times are the hardest.
I would put it about 70 lbs. But nevertheless, heavy and awkward when you are trying to manipulate it from below. I was able to unbolt and roll mine to get access to the oil pan. Cv axles were still in place.
I would put it about 70 lbs. But nevertheless, heavy and awkward when you are trying to manipulate it from below. I was able to unbolt and roll mine to get access to the oil pan. Cv axles were still in place.
exactly what I was going to say. all I gotta add is knock out 3 studs on both sides for easy cv removal
Found a discarded 6 foot long 6x4, along with that 8x8 i used for my wheel ramps stands, some time ago. Picked it up And brought it home, not entirely sure what i was going to do with it... ... something like this for sure! Chopped it into 5 segments. Purchased several 8" wood screws and Built a catch for the diffy. And raised the motorcycle lift itself by 4" and the platform height by 6". Giving me a Solid 22" stand reach.. ... also meaning I was able do this with the truck way up on those 12" wheel ramps!
Well; After having some difficulty with clearance of the CV studs, and the Diffy mounting brackets... and lower control arm, I see why driving a few CV studs out would benefit! I had already done that trying to removing the CV's.. removing All those studs lwould probably be better!!! But I decided to 'simply' Remove the IFS/ Differential cross member... lol... which... in the end did make this SIGNIFICANTLY Easier! The differential lower right down ZERO issues! But... well...
while I do plan on driving it a bit, BEFORE I Reinstall this diffy Thingy. (Just so I can put more money into it later.) So, I just reinstalled the cross member. Having removed the crossmember though, The chassis actually splayed out by about half an inch, So getting those bolts back in, required a little... possibly dangerous, ingenuity. My solution was a Bit of improper use of a high lift jack... ... while the truck stands on a pair of 12" tall wooden wheel ramps... lol
It worked, but I'm not even going to describe what I did because I don't condone that sort of behavior. ... it did work... but. If hate to see someone get hurt doing what I did.
Anyways WOOHOO!! Almost ready for the oil pan and oil pump.
Oh right!! The other thing that helped on this SUPER early morning project, A Small-ish Rebuildable "Ratcheting" Over Sized 1/2" drive wrench!! It's Not quite exactly a braker bar.... it's not a speedy impact wrench either.. but at 5 am while it's still cool out... but, neighbors are still sleeping.. and I didn't need to run the compressor.
I think i was Finished by... ... 11am? For 7 Bolts!?!?
Eh... Maybe the impact wrench and air ratchet would have been better..
Just as a reminder, you never need to pound out any bolts anywhere on your truck. If you jack the truck up so your wheels are dangling, the half-shafts are at the wrong angle and you'll never work them out. Just put a trolley jack under the wheel and lift it until the weight just comes off the jack stands (so the suspension is as though the truck were sitting on its wheels). Then the half-shafts come out very easily. The bolts in the flange are shoulder bolts, with a precise fit to the matching holes. Hardware-store replacement bolts will never fit right.
It's your truck; if your favorite tool is a 3-lb sledge hammer, go at it. But you don't need to.
Just as a reminder, you never need to pound out any bolts anywhere on your truck. If you jack the truck up so your wheels are dangling, the half-shafts are at the wrong angle and you'll never work them out. Just put a trolley jack under the wheel and lift it until the weight just comes off the jack stands (so the suspension is as though the truck were sitting on its wheels). Then the half-shafts come out very easily. The bolts in the flange are shoulder bolts, with a precise fit to the matching holes. Hardware-store replacement bolts will never fit right.
It's your truck; if your favorite tool is a 3-lb sledge hammer, go at it. But you don't need to.
I popped 3 bolts out on each flange, then took them to the lathe and made sure they would fit in the holes with no slop. With the weight of the vehicle on the ground like you mentioned it’s way easier to get the axles in and out with out removing anything else. Makes it way easier to fix on the trail or what ever. Totally not necessary but worth it imo
Jul 21, 2025 | 08:16 PM
