Some of you may have seen this thread about my rear e-locker 4.30 swap. Well, that is finished and I am ready to start the front swap.

I will be swapping the diff out (housing and all) from my newly acquired 4Runner to my "old" 4Runner, and vice versa.

I would like to do this in the easiest way possible. According to Jim, that means popping the inner CV axles out of each side (right Jim?).

Anything else I need to know?

Any links to a write up or FSM diagram I might need?

Any little tricks or special tools I need to know about?

Do I need to drain the diff fluid?

Thanks guys!

 

Christian,

I know I have discussed with you about leaving your CV's in the spindles. It's possible to do it that way, but you have to disassemble the accuator while in the vehicle. It will be much easier for you to remove the CV's from the spindles than leave them in. I only left mine in because I have manual hubs and it's more of a pain to remove them. Plus with Manual hubs I could drive with the CV's wired in place and no diff. With ADD that's not possible.

Lift the vehicle and support with jack stands on the frame
Remove the skid plates
Drain the Diff (you will need either a 10mm or a 12mm allen)
-On both sides-
Remove the wheels
Remove the dust cover
Remove the CV nut (35mm or 36mm)
Remove the 4 lower ball joint bolts
Use a brass drift to remove the inner joint from the diff and remove the CV completely
Disconnect the drive shaft
Disconnect 2 vacum lines and one electrical plug on top of the diff
Remove the rear diff mounting bolt (it's an allen 10mm or 12mm)
Support the diff with a jack
Remove the front 2 mounting bolts
-You're Done!-

Reverse process for installation.

I think that's it, I might have forgot something...if you have any questions let me know.

By the time you finish with 2 you will be an expert.

 

Great Jim, that helps.

So, are the inner CV's held in place by a retainer ring (like FWD's)? If so, will a pry-bar work?

 

Yeah, a pry bar will work I've used one. But be careful not to bend the dust seal on the axle.

 

So the e-locker switch from the donor rig is a given, however, what about this black ecu? Is this what I want?

It says "4WD Electronic Control" and "ABS" on it. Remember, the other rig has to go back to "stock."

 

That's the ECU. I don't know if it is integral to any of the ABS operation or not. I suggest, pulling it (don't cut the plug off yet) and start up the donor. If you don't get an ABS light or anything you should be fine. If you do, plug it back in and look into another route to wire it. (I do have an extra ECU and plug if you need one)

What about the progress on the front diff?

 

Jim-

Well I dont have an allen wrench big enough to get the diff drain bolt off. Out of all my tools, I don't have stinkin allen wrench big enough. A 3/8 drive ratchet sort of fit in there, but then it started to strip so I stopped. I will pick one up tomorrow.

I am also waiting on the T-fitting and hard brake line for my rig from the dealer. So, basically everything is on hold. Good thing my wife and I carpool!

Anyway, it is up on stands with the skids off, in standby.

I will confirm the ABS Jim, thanks.