My friend's 4R does not start as you can see in the videos uploaded. Please, could you point us in the right direction to solve this issue?

 

This thread really helped me out My truck runs a few seconds and then quits ... - YotaTech Forums
Jeff

 

Looks to me like it did start, but died quickly. I would check the COR relay: Ray's COR Info

 

Dang I hadn't seen that thread before thanks!

 

Hello everyone, I'm the friend

Update:

It cranks fine, starts and runs fine for about 2 or 3 seconds, then stops..

Spark plugs, plug-wires, distributor cap, rotor and fuelfilter is brand new.
The gas was rotten, so I am using clean gas directly from a can for now..

The fuel pump runs. I had a multimeter connected to it, and the engine stops before the pump does.
I have tried to jump the fuelpump, but it makes no difference
The airflow meter seems to work. (It starts the fuel pump and CSI when I open the "door")
The EGR is blocked off with an aluminum plate
The cold-start injector is cleaned and works
I have cleaned the cold-start sensor
The engine runs clean the few seconds it's running, so I don't think the injectors are the problem.
Tried jamming the AFM open. Cold Start Injector works, but still not running more than a few seconds.
No check engine-light
Cirquit Opening Relay works
Put a multimeter on the FP, it has power until the engine stops and the AFM closes
Cold Start Sensor and Temp Sensor are within OHM-range
Put an extra ground wire between battery and engine-block
All vacuum-lines seems to be OK and tightly fitted

Still not running more than a few seconds.. I think 4 seconds is the record.. As you can see in the videos, it runs clean for those few seconds.

 

EDIT:

I took the relay out (which by the way is a pain in the ass!) and checked the continuity and operation.

It seems I have no continuity between +B and FC... Guess I have to try to find a new relay?



When I checked the power operation, both options worked..
Can someone verify if the non-continuity between +B and FC can cause my problems?

 

There are 2 coils inside the COR relay, one of them is energized at cranking time (I'm betting the STA to E1), and then the other is energized by the AFM Vane (this I'm guessing is the +B to FC), so if you don't have continuity between +B and FC terminals of your COR relay, then that coil is burned out. Which looks to me like your fuel pump will get no power once you stop cranking engine. But then you go on to say that when you applied power to each of the COR coils, both cases showed continuity between +B and FP, which does not make sense to me. If the one coil is burned out, then you would think that one of the 2 powered tests would fail.

Now you said that you tried to jump the fuel pump, is that by connecting B+ to FP in your diagnostic connector? Did you see the link to scope103's tutorial that hurricanes posted? He shows you where exactly to jumper the fuel pump in the diagnostic connector.

Edit: One other thing, if your COR really is bad, jamming the AFM vane open is not going to do anything.

 

Makes no sense to me either...
Checked it again now, just to be sure..
1A - Continuity
1B - No continuity
1C - No continuity
2A/B - Continuity
2C/D - Continuity

I have tried jumping the fuel pump by using the diagnostic connector (FP to B+). This makes no difference, it still only runs for a few seconds.

 

Bought a new COR from Rockauto and put it in yesterday, and the ˟˟˟˟er started right up



Don't understand why it wouldn't start when I jumped +B to FP last week, but at least it runs now



Thank you for your help