Thanks for the photo, probably not my issue since mine are wired the same way.


Any other suggestions as to what could be causing it to not run? other than the afm, are there any other sensors i could test with a multi that would affect the engine starting?

I'm really running out of time and am going to have to start looking for a shop to tow it to if i cant figure this out

 

Any other suggestions as to what could be causing it to not run? other than the afm, are there any other sensors i could test with a multi that would affect the engine starting?

I'm really running out of time and am going to have to start looking for a shop to tow it to if i cant figure this out [/quote]

Have you checked the TPS?

 

Do you have the coolant temp sensor and cold start time switch connectors reversed? Try unplugging the cold start injector and try to start. If the time switch is shorted the cold start injector will spray all the time. The sensors are on the lower intake under the thermostat housing the green is the coolant temp sensor for the computer the other is the time switch. Did you run a compression test? If its dumping that much fuel it could be washing the rings keeping it from building compression and starting.

 

Yes, that is how I do it.
Plug the hole with a finger while turning the motor and compressed air will build up behind your finger.

 

The crank and the cam gears do not line up directly on a 22re.
With the engine at TDC = timing mark on crank at 0, then the marks on the timing gear line up with the the shiny link on the chain, if the chain is installed correctly on the crank gear.

Here is a link that explains and illistrates it completly.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

 

I have not tested it with a multi but ive tried starting with and without it plugged in.

I've made sure these two sensors were not crossed. The plug and connector match in color so it would be difficult to mix that up.

I have not ran a compression test but plan on it this afternoon. I believe this may be my issue, as you said, fuel could be washing out the rings causing the motor to not build compression. How could i remedy this? Could i add oil through the plug holes to seal the rings while i get it started for the first time??

According to that article, My cam and crank gears are exactly where they should be. All of this was tested and checked before leaving sunwest. They run/test every motor and provide data print outs of the results before they ship. Since i never touched the timing cover, cam, or timing chain, i dont see how it could have jumped a tooth.

 

Check your oil - does it have lots of gas in it? Can you get a flashlight and look into the cylinders? Is there fuel sitting in the cylinder?

If you screwed up a gasket on the fuel injectors (speaking from an all to recent memory) the fuel may have leaked down into the block. I messed up the gasket when installing a fuel injector, didn't remove the fuel cap while it was sitting and when the temps rose in the garage the fuel was being forced into the cylinder. I had about 2 gallons of fuel and oil in my block...

 

If you have any possibility of washing out your cylinders, then YES, oil in the cylinders will help protect them from further damage. Hopefully there wont be any major loss of compression already from the fuel wearing on the rings. Major ring wear can occur in a very short period of time. Keep in mind the oil will increase your compression some.
The TPS checks are not that hard to do. See
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
I just solved an ugly issue on my own rig this weekend. Turned out my AFM was bad. That can be checked with a multi meter as well.
Travis

 

One glimmer of hope - when the "block of fuel" happened to me... I was able to change out the oil, clean out the intake and finally get it started. I think mine wouldn't start because there was too much fuel in the cylinders to get it to fire. And after checking compression dry it was +200 on each cylinder (this was my nissan sentra sr20 - not the 4runner).

 

When i dried out the cylinders and tried it again it started running but very strange. Almost like it didnt have any compression. I'm not very experienced with this so i didnt know what to make of it.

I really think this may be my issue. The flooding washed out the oil from the rings which wont allow compression to build, and flooded from trying to start so many times. Funny how that happens.

I will be drying out the cylinders once more (just in case) then adding oil to each plug hole and hoping for the best. If this doesnt work, it has to go to a shop i am out of time with this thing and my dad would really like his car that im borrowing back.

 

I bet there is a bunch of gas in the oil - it may have enough in there to keep pushing fluid past the rings on the down strokes - try emptying it out and replace the oil - pain sorry dude

 

I am just baffeled about some of the things people are starting to "give advice" on. Gas in the oil, are you serious... This thread has turned into a "lets throw anything out there and see if it the problem".

Thorw in the towel, take it to the shop. Tell us what they fiqure out...

My bet is still the timing is off or the AFM is bad.

 

He said there is gas in the oil... it's not as if it came out of no where

wowza!

 

How could the timing be off if the motor was tested before it left the shop and i have yet to get it running. . i've read the threads on 4crawler about timing and have double checked EVERYTHING on my motor with the photos and data from the linked articles in here. I've checked the "Flapper" as you mentioned earlier in the thread and it is not sticking.

Not sure where all the hostility is coming from. . Sorry for asking questions. . .

^Thank you

 

There are two types of timing - Cam and ignition.

Did you take the timing cover off to check both the cam and crank are timed correctly? Just because the cam is correct, does not mean the crank will be correct.

There is no hostility, but there comes a time where you need either A) the tools to diagnose it correctly or B) a rough idea about where to start. To me it's become pretty obvious on both fronts. Just saying...do you want it to run or do you want to go on a wild goose chase trying everyone’s opinions? There have been no pictures for "us" to verify timing either cam or ignition. So all your getting are shots in the dark...It's your truck, untimely it's up to you. However, taking it to a mechanic that knows 22re will be your best advice yet...

 

Your completely right, it is obvious of both but you have to learn somewhere, somehow right? I will be taking pictures this evening to show everything.

My question to you is how could the timing on the crank jump if the motor has never been run before. I trust sunwest assembled the longblock correctly which is the only thing keeping me from tearing it down to the timing cover.

Also, if the crank sprocket was off wouldnt the crank pulley not line up to the 0 at TDC?


I do not have any friends or family that are even remotely automotive savy. I dont have anyone or anywhere else to ask questions and am trying to learn all of this on my own, through trial and error.

 

Do you have a factory service manual? If not search the forums here and you'll be able to download one. The best way to learn is to know what the factory tell us! Let me know if you can find one or not.
Travis

 

Alright I'm at my parents right now sweating my a$$ off into the night on this thing. Ran a compression test. To me it seemed good but I'll let you guys be the judge.

Cyl 1 = 180
Cyl 3 = 180
Cyl 4 = 178
Cyl 2 = 175

I also have photos of the cam sprocket, distributor and crank pulley. I'll post the pictures in about an hour

 

Ya that's excellent. FSM sais 140 minimum with no more than 15 difference between cylinders. I have run engines with way less and big differences between them, may not be perfect but they worked! Your in good shape there.

 

Here's the link for the FSM's

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...manual-156129/