Pulled 3 codes from the ECU today after discovering the cel bulb was missing from the gauge cluster.

Codes 21, 42, and 51

One I believe is an o2 sensor wiring problem, the others I'm not very sure of.

 

I know this may sound silly, but did you check if the spark plug wires were all hooked up to the correct cylinders?

I had a CRX that once ran like that when I mixed the plug wires up.

Just something simple that you can double check in a few seconds.

 

code 21 is an O2 sensor fault. Solution, Replace o2. Code 42 is a Vehicle speed sensor circuit fault. Not sure what or where this is but may have to do with my speedometer not working. Last is a code 51 Which translates to: A/C signal on; DL contact off. I have no idea what this one means or how to deal with it.

None of these deal with my timing issue though.

Any insight????

 

Yeah, I've checked the wires dozens of times. the motor will barely run if they are mixed up

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...26diagnosi.pdf

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html

 

Code 51 "points to" an improperly adjusted TPS (which is where I suggest you look, since I understand you replaced the TPS). Check the manual; it's not difficult. This is probably why you don't get a timing change when you jumper TE1 to E1.

Code 21 "points to" a problem with the O2 sensor heater circuit. I would, as you suggest, start with replacing the O2 sensor (easy to do, you probably need one anyway). But don't forget that the code points to a circuit, not a part. The part may not be the problem.

If your speedometer is not working you are almost guaranteed a code 42, as you have no VSS1 signal. This will mess things up, but probably not to the degree you're describing.

Good luck!

 

Good, I don't think I'd seen that mentioned before. I would just hate to have not suggested something so simple and that had been the problem after all your hard work.

Sorry this has been so frustrating. I'm rooting for you to get it figured out.

Furthermore, have you checked that you have a good cap, rotor, and distrubuter? Are you seeing any cracks or signs of arcing with the cap or on the rotor?

Sorry if youve checked these several times. I can only pull from my experience of what I've encountered in the past.

Good luck.

 

Thank you for those links!! I've been using a single 1400pg PDF file for my manual and it is such a pain to navigate.

Your are correct, i put in the new TPS and am taking my multimeter home from work this afternoon to see what she reads.

You would cringe to see how the PO wired this O2 sensor into my truck. Twist wires together (all of them) and electrical tape the whole thing. I have begun pulling the mess apart but cannot figure out which wires go to where. my O2 has 2 grey, 1 white and 1 black wire, where the truck side has 2 black, 1 white, and a blue wire. I've done a few searches on here but it seems every result i get the person has brown and yellow wires on their truck side.

Hey its all good man, i appreciate the help I can get. I have checked that stuff though. I've considered replacing the distributor when i get paid next week. Have to figure out a test for it first though to make sure it's at fault

 

Have you figured out if all cylinders are firing or if you're only running on certain cylinders?

I would think if some cylinders are not firing it would be an ignition issue or a fueling issue for that cylinder.

Only conjecture.

 

I've tested spark at each cylinder and do not believe i have a fuel issue. It was flooding at one point but have since gotten that sorted out.

It doesn't feel like its running on 3 or less cylinders. The idle is pretty smooth for having a cam its just very low and very noisy.

 

So the only issue left is low and noisy idle?

 

Low, Noisy, and i cannot set the timing which i'm hoping is due to the un-calibrated TPS. It is way under powered and uses alot of fuel

 

I'm sure you know this, but doesn't the O2 sensor basically set the fuel/air mixture? I would think having it incorrectly wired up or messed up in some other way (being drowned in fuel for instance) would lead to a lot of the problems you are experiencing.

Do your plugs show evidence of an extremely rich fuel/air ratio?

This may not apply to the 22RE, but I've also read to use only the Toyota O2 sensors because other brands do not protrude far enough into the exhaust stream to work properly.

 

I didn't get to work on it this weekend due to the weather.

I do believe the o2's play a role in a/f. but iv'e had them go bad on other vehicles and it never caused this many problems.

Pulling the plugs today to check their condition.

iv'e heard the same thing in regards to Bosch O2's on Toyota trucks. But it seems some people don't have issues with them. Either way, its getting replaced on Wed.

 

For the hell of it, pull the 02 connector while it's running....... AFTER it's fully warm(heated 02's kick in faster but still, takes a minute).... If you notice NO change in how it's running.. Might be a good indication that you have at least SOME issue with either the 02 or wiring therein. DO THIS BEFORE you replace it with new.. It will give you better perspective as to what if anything changes when swapping in a new one. BTW..... www.sparkplugs.com , got my single wire there for 29$.... Got the 2003 CRV's Sensor there for 59$(It's heated, first bank sensor)...... Why throw something in that could possibly complicate things? My Bosch worked ok... But not for long... Not sticking far enough into the flange caused the ECU to eventually read something that wasn't happening... And then went WAY too rich on me.

I can't read back, just fill me in, PLEASE? lol>>>> Have you simply pulled the TPS while it's running to see what if any difference occurs? If it's beyond limits of adjustment, the TPS.... you might not notice any change, which would be VERY telling. (Make sure to reset the ECU after pulling the 02 and TPS, whether to just test like i said or adjusting the TPS )

 

What do you mean by 'LOUD'?

PS> I have a steady bogging down to 400-500RPM at hot restarts.... Plus a lil hiccup in idle that I've NEVER been able to find(STILL DETERMINED TO KILL THAT BUGGER-GREMLIN THOUGH! LOL).....

I'm sure you've adjusted the Idle/Air Screw out til it's almost coming out and it still wants to idle down?

I've seen CAT's being bad do this.

Read a great thread on this 02 wiring drama, just yesterday. HOPING I bookmarked it... I'm SURE it will help you. It sounds as if the 2 gray would be the 2 black, ...and the white and black on the aftermarket 02 you have in would go to white and blue(blue on Yota Harness wiring MIGHT be the ground... I'll try to find that thread, hopefully).... But you have heater switched and heater to ECU and then you have signal and ground.... Anyway, don't wanna guess, I'm still looking into this for my rig's situation as well(removed LCE header and went back to stock tri-y Cast exhaust to pass smog/which also moved the 02 up on the manifold like it was originally).

^^^ Sorry, just thinking out loud/in type! hahaha.

 

Here ya go, OP>>>>

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51942398

FORGET my post...lol... Just read through what Scope and other more GURU'ish on 02 Sensors type dudes posted.

 

Hey Chef! ive tried unplugging the TPS while running and had no change. I replaced the TPS last week and set the it friday and it seems to have brought the idle even lower. I'll have to check out sparkplugs.com as soon as i figure out if im going to need to replace the plugs also.


I do the same thing man, its all good. By loud i mean noisy valve-train. I understand the motor has a cam and i expect the lifters to be a little noisier than stock. But sheesh, this thing sounds like an old Mercedes diesel. my idle screw is out as far as possible without losing it. ( i check it after every run to make sure it hasnt wiggled out )

If i turn on my lights, it gets even lower and the lights will dim. Come night time, driving around town gets a little tricky. between rolling stop signs at empty intersections, feathering the gas and braking with the left foot, and cutting the lights as much as possible, just to keep the RPMS up high enough for it to run. I swear i have the quirky-est truck in this entire town and i wouldnt have it any other way. I just wish the quirks didnt involve my wallet anymore

Looks like i have some reading for the evening. Thanks for all your help Chef

 

Hey man, no problem... Not even sure it'll help, but can't help if you don't share those personal experiences or info you've come upon yourself, right?

By mentioning www.sparkplugs.com , I wasn't implying you should go there quickly and grab plugs, lol.. Any parts store(most of them anyway) now have NGK or even Denso/Appropriate plugs, so for an extra set for later? Sure For now as though it would solve anything? Nah! lol. (I can't KNOW your plugs are fine... but it wouldn't be my first guess considering your symptoms). No, actually, I mentioned them in regards to grabbing a Denso 02 from them... They're MUCH cheaper than the dealer, .... GUARANTEED, I promise! haha... AND, you'd avoid going Bosch, ya know? Not forgetting to mention that they're FAST AS ALL HECK! 2 days I got mine and the CRV's 02 sensors(needed both).

Interesting that it's so loud and yet you seem to also have an 'System' related problem as well(meaning pertaining to the relationship of the ECU to something, EFI, IGN, etc., ya know?) Most times I've seen "loud valve-train issues" it's cuz they're loose as can be without falling out.... OR, often, it's the old infamous "Yeah, i had the valve cover bolts too tight... haha. /// Other times, more serious things like CAM/other mechanical timing being way off/collision with pistons, etc., were the final conclusions.

I've also seen a cracked coil cause symptoms like you have(somewhat similar).. but more 'under load' actually. They would idle ok, but when needing WHITE HOT SPARK... 'nope'! lol.

I would FIRST do two things, pretty much as Scope, a more experienced diagnose person than myself, has suggested.... MAKE SURE the TPS is within specs and then replace the 02 if it's about due anyhow/throwing a code. I believe when you pull the plug on the 02, the ECU goes into a limp mode(Scope?).... so pulling the TPS or jumpering the diagnostic terminals wouldn't change the timing at all... Cuz the TPS is not involved. But I would also think that in limp mode you're at least gonna be on the rich side.... which I wouldn't think, unless it's SUPPPPPPPPPPER rich, would cause a wanting to stall out at idle.

Seeing that you're losing more and more ability to stay idling and keep it running when you 'pull voltage/amperage' from the system... that's gotta lead somewhere specifically, I would think. MAYBE something IGN related. Buddy had a short in the longgggggg wire that goes from the harness to the Ignitor.... The thing was REALLY acting crazy. Then another buddy forgot the plug it in all together.... NO GO-GO AT ALL! haha....

Very interested to see where this leads. I've had issues, before where my headlights and such would cause a CONSIDERABLE and noticeable drop in RPM..... I've replaced the major ground wires... But still want to replace the fusible link power supply with a 4G wire or so.

Best wishes, indeed!

 

Actually curious if you've tested the compression at all.... New motor or not. They can fail too, ya know? What if the builder installed the cam way off or something..... causing such a collision as mentioned? NOT TRYING TO BE DARK here, I SWEAR! ....... Just something I'd want to know before dumping a single dime into it. If I found really low compression or ANYTHING that led me to look further, I'd do a leak down and see if maybe a bunch of valves are bent, etc., ya know? WOULD BE TERRIBLE NEWS.. But welcome, I'm sure, if you just wanna know what EXACTLY is wrong, right? Mechanical things CAN eventually throw codes all over the place, OP..... especially things like valves that wont close, etc., right?