Lol, i didn't mean i would rush to get them there. But i will order plugs with the o2 from them while i'm at it since they have o2's much cheaper than i can get in town. I checked my plugs btw. they didn't look too bad and it was dark by the time the engine cooled enough to touch it so i couldn't get a visible picture.

My o2 doesn't have a plug, its been removed and spliced into a bare ended o2. I'm only guessing it to be a Bosch since they use the same wire colors as the o2 on my truck now.

I've already made sure my valve cover is not on there too tight. I have a terrible habit of over-tightening EVERYTHING so i am always super careful about working on my truck and use a torque wrench as often as necessary. I'm going to check the FSM for a guide on checking and adjusting the valves. Hopefully they just need to be adjusted since the engine is new (the internals are at least).

Checked Compression earlier in the thread and gave great compression across all cylinders.

Ahhh, far as sparkplugs.com...I see. Good plan.... "get whatcha need shipped all at once.".... Good thinking.

Far as the Bosch o2... Yeah, you'll figure it out when you pull it... they're DRAMATICALLY different looking.

Good idea to at least CHECK the valve lash, sure. It may be dead on. But STILL... why so NOISY, right?

Nice on the compression... sorry, I must have not gone back enough, thus I missed it.

These type crazy symptoms can really be frustrating,... you're doing a good job of approaching all angles, man.... I'm just tripping on that voltage/amperage load causing the stall thingy. That's one thing I do AND don't wish I could do on my rig.... Flip it to OBD6000! lol.... JK, but you KWIMean, right? "front bank 02 Sensor is lazy, sir.... let me change that for you/Please clear me when I'm done", hahaha.... OK, but at least they can tell you quick, "Lean Misfire in cyl #2" or whatever." I guess the part of me that doesn't want that type system is, well, thinking about 'how much more could go wrong with 5 computers, just for the engine?' hahaha.

So, ... you've dug in there with a stethoscope and you're POSITIVE this is 'Valve-Train' noise? It's a steady repetitious clicking with the speed/tempo of valves, not lower end?

BTW, I KNEW I'd read this before, lol.... Checked it at "NEW POSTS" before I saw it in my 'user cp' of scribeded ones... OK, .... Well, you're on it, and you'll find it soon enough, I know it BTW, GREAT PICS of the physical timing settings, ... Dimple in the dizzy gear and all! OH, and I LOVE those flashy green rocker-keeper springs! hahaha.

I'll definitely check and adjust the valve lash since the instructions said to do so after the first 500 miles.

It is definitely valve train noise mixed with some exhaust leakage from the EGR tubes and connections. I plan to delete the EGR anyway so i'm not too worried about the leaks. I don't believe its coming from the bottom end since i have A checked with a stethoscope and B, i ruined the bottom end in my last motor, this sounds nothing like the old one. Not to mention, if it were knocking, wouldn't the knock sensor pick up on that and set off a CEL?

I've often wondered how many people would have alot less trouble with their motors if the OBD system would give us more information. If i had a nickel every time someone told me "just take it to a shop and have them hook it up to their computer to tell you whats wrong" . . . .

I often wonder what the world would be like if Toyota re-made the 1st gen 4runner. newer body styling still tracing back to the original 1st gen body lines. Removable top with a factory, FUNCTIONAL roll bar and place for the spare in the truck/back. Solid axles front and rear, with e-lockers, of course. a newer V8 motor they use in the current 4runner with all of the bells and whistles (obd2, large capacity alt. for winches, O/R lights, radios, etc.) And to top it off a rugged yet still comfortable interior you wouldn't feel embarrassed to take a date in. And not so nice your too afraid to sink it up to the doors in mud. I could ramble for days about my dream Yota. . . i can dream can't I?

I'm working on getting a video up on youtube so you can hear the noise

Thanks for the compliments about the photos Chef! they were taken with a really nice camera so i give that all the credit lol. I believe it was a Nikkon D90

Well it worked, i got a video of the noises.

unfortunately it was taken with my phone on my lunch break and i didnt realize how much of my radiator fan it was picking up. it really just sounds like exhaust leaks to me in the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3lRZtxNlxmo&feature=plcp

That sounds mostly like exhaust leaking to me.... goes away at full throttle, comes back at idle..... But like you said, you've listened with a stethoscope and you hear 'valve tapping' on top of the exhaust leaking, right?

I don't think it sounds like 'REALLY AGGRESSIVE METAL ON METAL' at all. COULD be I hear a LIL valve tapping going on,...but all in all it sounds pretty smooth.

Nonetheless, adjusting the valves will NOT hurt anything, at all lol. But getting rid of the exhaust leaks, all of them? Might make this noise-gremlin hunt a lil easier? hehe. You definitely want to adjust them right, cuz too loose and too tight can cause hard to find problems/create other ones that you'll never solve until that's sussed up, ... true enough.

WOW, you're dream rig is just like mine!!! lol. EXCEPT, ... I would like to add back doors on these, no handles, electric release, maybe even suicide style Nissan did doors, why not Toyota, right? haha.

Definitely coming from valve cover and a different rattle behind the timing cover that is audible around 2500rpm. obviously just hidden in the video by my wonderful EGR leaks. Maybe my ears are just too picky since i was spoiled driving one of my parents cars for a little while.

Lets not forget about all of the TRD and aftermarket goodies that would have to be offered for such a rig as well I would be more than content putting myself in debt for the next 8 years if Toyota would get their a$$ together and make another truck/4runner like they used to.

I forgot to mention. The idle seems to have gotten a little lower over the past 24 hours. It was acting like i had the lights on without them at all this time. If i had turned the lights on, she would have died for sure. RPM's in the low hundreds i believe.

I'm down to 2 codes now. 21 and 42. Speed sensor and O2 sensor.

But i still cannot get the timing set. The truck is very underpowered and difficult to drive on roads with speed limits about 40mph. Not to mention i have to RIDE my brand new clutch to get it rolling without bogging her out.

Can the 2 CEL's i still have cause an inability to set the BASE ignition timing? setting the timing is my MAIN issue. I could give a rat's *** about the CEL's if i could just set the timing right.

I don't understand this, why can't you set the timing (or, at a minimum find out where it is now)? I read earlier (much earlier) that you didn't notice a change in rpm when jumpering E1 to TE1. (Mine doesn't either.) But you can still read and set the timing.

It sure sounds like you're way off on timing. But if not, feel free to let us know where it is now.

Curious why your idle doesn't drop when jumpering TE1 and E1, Scope... I've had this happen twice and both times it was related to TPS' being just too far out of specs/and in one case the TPS was fried. I would pull the TPS connector and in both instances the idle wouldn't change at all. Set the TPS and, while I still had those issues due to the 02 being lazy/too far from the heat, ... it would still drop and allow me to set the timing to 5*BTDC... Where it ran pretty smooth, just a lil rich due to the 02 not getting hot enough, etc. If he set his timing now at 5*BTDC...and it's not allowing him to set it properly when jumpered... wouldn't it just hardly run if run at all?

I would think when this is happening it's because SOMETHING related to RPM signal(coil/ignitor/dizzy) is not right, so the ECU will not allow it to come out of a safe limp mode... (like, maybe, a cracked coil or something?)...OR> is it possible/more likely that the ECU isn't even able to get involved for some reason and thus the base timing can't be manually set?

Could a fried or tired or way out of specs secondary coil cause this inability to jumper things?

My buddy forgot to connect is ignitor(the long wire from the harness over the top of the motor) after a rebuild.... It would start and run fine with a steady stream of starter fluid but die almost right away that the fluid was stopped. Obviously, in that case, the injectors were not able to fire/no completed circuit/no signal being sent from the ignitor. But all that stuff is tied together.... Dizzy/Coil/Ignitor/Secondary Coil/Injector pulse,.......... Then the TPS adjusts through the ECU via other readings like the o2, AFM ambient temp, coolant temp sensor, etc., no?

My idle always drops when jumpering TE1 and E1...I know, I said that already, ahhaha... I mention it, really, to ask you, Scope.... If my o2 is disconnected or fried or there's a short in the wiring from the ECU to 02... Would that prevent the Jumper from seeming to drop idle/allowing me to set the timing properly?

After more fiddling than i could imagine the timing has been set. I had to have somebody come by and take a look at it to do the actual timing since there had to be something i was missing. I've also replaced the o2 and found the source of the exhaust leaks.

BIG THANKS to everyone who offered advice or input! The truck runs better and stronger than i could have imagined.

OOOOH, my "good yota news" nugget for the day... PROPS!

Seriously..... great news, man!

Thanks Chef!! Couldnt have done it without your help along with others!

I'm really beyond excited to be driving my truck again