mine would not start because of an igniter wiring issue


Wire to the coil/igniter was connected to the wrong side of the coil..

good luck

 

Thanks Buck. i'll check all my grounds later on today. Where does the ground from the firewall to the head attach. Just anywhere on the head? This wire has never been attached and was ripped off by the previous owner so i'll be soldering in a new one.

I'll have to look into that, thanks

 

The ground from the firewall attaches to the lift hook on the back of the head if I remember right.

 

I had a similar issue with my 88 runner after a rebuild. My problem was a crack in the air tube from the filter to the maf. If we held the door in the box open it would run. Got a new air tube and it was good to go. Sorry if I'm off on the names of these parts. Good luck

 

I think thats it.. 597

 

do you have the air intake hooked up, or is the throttlebody just open to air right now?

 

Update:

I got the truck even closer to running last night. it actually started and ran incredibly rough until it died about 5 seconds later.

Checked all of the grounds and they are in their homes. Added a new wire for the ground to head wire since the PO had ripped it out.

I pulled the valve cover to check how the cam sprocket was positioned while the crank pulley was at 0. They lines up which leads me to believe i have not skipped a tooth on the timing chain. check.

Checked the distributor and reset with the mark on the gear and brush sitting at 12 oclock then turning to 11 when i tighten it down. followed numerous threads for this one. Check.

I had to change the oil since it flooded with fuel and fuel mixed with the oil
I think i am still having a fuel issue. the tail pipe smells like gasoline after trying to start and so does the dipstick (oil). This is really getting frustrating and expensive if i have to keep changing the oil since it keeps mixing with fuel . . .

The truck lives at my parents right now and they would really like it if i would get it out of their driveway so im really running out of time here. If anyone has insight on this FLOODING issue im all ears.

Also, If there is anyone in the Baltimore/Washington area who wouldnt mind taking a trip to annapolis to help sort this out i would make sure it was worth your time.


Any help is GREATLY appreciated!!

 

I contacted Sunwest and they told me I probably have the distributor set on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke. I have the cam and crank sprockets lined up perfectly.

How do i go about setting it to the compression stroke??

 

if it's at tdc, the rotor in the dist should be pointing at #1 contact on the distributor cap which would indicate #1 cylinder will be firing (hopefully

 

There full of it, there is no exhaust vs compression stroke on a distributor. Again, set the engine to TDC, that means number 1 pistion needs to be at the top of it's stroke, valves should be loose. Put the rotor on the dizzy at 12 oclock and insert and it should rotate back to 10 oclock...not eleven. The rotor will be pointing at the #1 spark plug wire it it's set up right. If you think about it, the rotor needs to be at exactly that point to send a current to fire the # 1 plug. If your rotor is not pointing at the #1 sparkplug wire, your a tooth off.

 

Thats what i thought. the motor is at TDC, Cam and crank sprocked marks are lined up and the valves are loose. the rotor on the dist. IS pointing directly at the #1 terminal on the cap.

I have checked all of this over and over. I did not have a camera and have been doing all of this work by myself so i could not take pictures or else i would have.

Still not sure what to make of the HEAVY fuel smell in the oil and tail pipe though. Does anybody have insight on this or think THIS could be my problem and the distributor.

 

Start checking the AFM. See if the flapper (for lack of a better term) inside is sticking. I have seen the flapper stick open, which causes the fuel pump to put more fuel and cause a rich or flooding condition. Make sure there is no air leaks on the intake ducking.

 

It could be firing on the exhast stroke (4 stroke) which means that your distributor is 180 out. If you wanna check for sure, pull of your valve cover. If your exahst intake exahst valve opens after it was set to fire, it's correct. Chances are that you will see your intake valve opening.
Hope that helps.

 

Sorry, not chances are, but if it's out, you will see...

 

could i still be 180 out with the brush lined up at the #1 post?

 

Ya. Only way to tell is know for sure is know which valve is opening. I don't think the cam and crank sprockets would line up then though. Best way to know for sure is watch the valves.
I'm going through some diagnostic issues myself right now. Going to be trying another AFM this weekend and hope it works out. These kind of problems are time consuming and frustrating!!!

 

i guess i could put my thumb in the #1 spark hole and see if it gets pushed out.

Yes, they are VERY frustrating

checking my afm next time im over there to work on the truck.

 

Does anyone have a photo of the wiring leading to each injector? Maybe i have the wires mixed up

 

I believe the injectors all fire at the same time, anyways here is a picture from when I did mine.

http://imgur.com/3EHoR