Subscribed, good luck.

 

Sounds like timing or something electrical. Try starting the engine with the distributor turned all the way one way then the other. If it wont start after that and your sure its not timing then I would run a compression test and maybe leakdown to make sure valves arent bent.

 

Sounds like a dizzy thing. Check out my thread here, with photos...I was a tooth off and could not get it started.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...78/index3.html

Good luck!

 

Got to working on her last night and i think i have made a conclusion.

I started by removing the valve cover to double check that the cam and crank are lined up when at TDC. Reset the diestributor and went over the wiring and vacuum hoses one last time.

It will crank and come evry close to starting but after a few tries it seems like the plugs get snuffed out and it will crank and crank with no response. Upon removing the plugs i found fuel on then. Enough for it to drip off of the electrode. I then cracked the upper manifold from the lower and fuel poured out.

The only thing that was changed on the fuel side were the injectors. I had a hard time installing the injectors due to a very minor difference in the plug, guess it was a little more important that i realized (whoops). I will be swapping these new injectors out for the old ones and giving that a shot this afternoon.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!

 

No luck.

I tried the dizzy a tooth forward and a tooth back. checked for spark again at all of the plugs. switched back to the original injectors and still can't get her started.

Could it be that the starter is slowing down and not spinning the motor fast enough to get it started?

I will be taking the valve cover off this weekend and snapping photos or the cam gear and dizzy to see if you all can see a problem. If anyone has any other ideas, i'd love to hear them.

 

What is your compression? Is your spark bright blue? Have you tested the coil and igniter according to the FSM? Visual inspection of all of the connections on the coil especially the high tension one? Tested the Ignition wires? Grounds?

 

That's frustrasting. Nothing worse than having all the parts there and only being able to look at them!
- Since you have the time, a compression test would be a good idea. That will tell you alot about what you can't see. Never know if a valve is sticking or as previously mentioned, bent.- if compression is good, next thing to check would be timing gear lined up with crank. I don't remember if you can do this with the t-chain cover in place or not. But it only takes one cog out and we have what you have. If you have fuel and you have spark, leads me to believe timing.
Good luck and keep us posted!!!

 

I'm picking up a compression tester today after work and will test it this weekend. The spark to the plugs is blue and strong. I have not tested them according to the FSM but i have checked that the high tension cord is sending to the dist. I would imagine my compression is fine since i bought the motor complete from sunwest and came with all of the testing reports and specs on the motor. One of which being compression, but i will check again for sure.

the only FSM i can find for the 88 is in a single PDF file and about 1500 pages long so finding things i need on it is pretty pain staking.

Which grounds could have a say in the motor not starting?

 

Frustrating indeed!

 

Which grounds could have a say in the motor not starting?

The intake needs a ground.

 

And that one is grounded to the intake. I believe its for the fuel injectors.

 

Ya it is. I had a similar problem in my 87' Rebuilt engine and wouldn't run. I tried everything. Turned out a had a bad wire to one of the injectors. I only found it when I pulled the herness and untaped it all. Pain in the ars, took me months to figure it out. Was a last resort and hope it not a wiring issue.
Have you been able to check that the crank/cam are lined up properly?

 

Grounds do weird things if they are not correct. Check them all. Off the top of my head I think that there are 4 of them :Battery to block, Battery to fender, PS bracket to fender, and Fire wall to head.

 

I believe they are, not sure how i would have skipped a tooth since the motor came assembled and i have all of the paperwork from the run tests they did before shipping me the motor. I never touched the timing chain. I'll check this weekend though.

Which terminals (+ or -) for the battery to block and battery to fender? I have the PS to fender ground and the firewall to head ground has been ripped off by the previous owner. I always wondered what that bare wire was sticking out of the center of the firewall.

Thanks for the help fellers!

 

That is the FSM that I use and it can be daunting, but there is a short cut. Open the PDF file and in the upper left corner is an icon that looks like a sheet of paper with a book mark on it. Hover on that icon and the words "Bookmarks go to specific points..." will appear. Click on that and a list of links to each chapter will appear. Each link takes you to that chapters first page which is its table of contents.
To find the coil test procedure for example:
Click on "bookmarks"
Click on "engine mechanical"
Scroll down to Trouble shooting on page EM2
In the chart under Hard Starting / Cause / Coil, it directs you to page IG7
Under bookmarks click on "ignition system"
That will take you to IG1
Scroll down to page IG7 and you have found the coil procedure

 

- is negative and that is your ground

 

lol well i know that. There appears to be a wire which looks like a ground coming from both possitive and negative battery wires. Do the battery to block and battery to fender connections both come off of the ground battery wire?

 

Pictures help!!!

 

yes they do

 

If you think that the FSM is not user friendly try posting picture for the 1st or 21st time